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Thread: Venom Creeper Safari Front Driveshaft issues

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Old 12-28-2010, 10:39 AM   #1
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Default Venom Creeper Safari Front Driveshaft issues

Hey Y'all, i just got a venom creeper safari for christmas and i was testing it over a few pillows. After a few times runnin over the pillows, i realised the Front wheels werent locked in. We looked underneath and the front driveshaft was off the transfer case...no big deal. we put it back on, tightened the set screw on the driveshaft to the flat part on the transfer case output..it worked for a while...then it happened again, and again, and again....Now i cant drive for 15 minutes without the front driveshaft fallin out...any advice?
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:30 AM   #2
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You need to put loc-tite on the threads of the set screw, or you can try the way i did, i took the shaft, set it on the out-put and with my dremel i put a divot, not a very big one but not one thats too small either, in the out put shaft, then i put the set-screw back in with green loc-tite, and it has been working good for about 6 months that way.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:46 AM   #3
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thank you i will try that
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:19 PM   #4
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I had this problem NUMEROUS times.

I drilled a small hole on that flat part. Did the trick. Then I went to traxxas drivelines. Prob your best best it to buy a set of those.
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Old 12-28-2010, 02:57 PM   #5
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RMDW T's & T's & set up

Read Tech Tip #3
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:17 PM   #6
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the aftermarket drive shafts on CKRC.com are the traxxas ones an they fit with no mods althought for a dig you will have to cut the back one down but you would have to do that for both if you got the traxxas shafts. there about $40 but the come with the shafts and the metal yokes enuff for both drive shafts.
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:05 AM   #7
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I noticed that when building one. Its like the set screws are not long enough! They suck if you ask me.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:48 AM   #8
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traxxas shafts with metal yokes
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:42 AM   #9
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How do you like the Safari? I got a Creeper kit for Christmas (that's a mouthfull - creeper kit for Christmas) anyway,

I'm having a good time building it right now and I'm using A LOT of loctite!

read through the tips and tricks here there are so many little mods to take care of the "issues" of the factory setup.

I plan on starting a build thread for mine soon.
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:50 PM   #10
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I really like the safari itself...it has a lot of power and torque. It has a good runtime, and if your batteries are charged, i cannot get it into a spot where the wheels wont turn...The only downfall is the remote control seems a little too complicated to my taste...Also when the suspension is articulating, it likes to rub the fender wells...also the cab corners. I plan to buy new body posts and a pro-line F250 body. This truck also has really good wheels out of the box, they collect mud if you spin though...the do stick to concrete really well so i suppose they do good on rocks. The DIG unit seems kinda stupid because only the front wheels spin and the rears grind in the back. Overall-Great Truck!!!
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:56 PM   #11
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the dig unit is only used to make very tight turns, and to help you get down a step angel drop off whenyour at a comp.
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Old 12-30-2010, 04:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxROELKEYxx View Post
I really like the safari itself...it has a lot of power and torque. It has a good runtime, and if your batteries are charged, i cannot get it into a spot where the wheels wont turn...The only downfall is the remote control seems a little too complicated to my taste...Also when the suspension is articulating, it likes to rub the fender wells...also the cab corners. I plan to buy new body posts and a pro-line F250 body. This truck also has really good wheels out of the box, they collect mud if you spin though...the do stick to concrete really well so i suppose they do good on rocks. The DIG unit seems kinda stupid because only the front wheels spin and the rears grind in the back. Overall-Great Truck!!!
Glad you like your rig,,couple things,,

any body will rub,,,period, at some point its gonna hang up on a tire or something.

The dig is a tool, like winch or hi-lift jack. It helps for downhills and making otherwise unmanagable turns,,especially up hill/off camber. But where the dig really comes in is when you are trying to make a hard 90* verticle climb up a rock face or breakover. Usually on a hard vert your rear tires will drive in under the fronts and the rig will tip over backward on itself. With the dig you get the fronts up on the rock the engage the dig and the front tires will spin until they get traction and then you disengage the dig and it lets the rears push as the fronts pull and the rig will usually go up verts that it wont go up without the dig. Its not stupid,,,if you learn to use it.
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Old 12-30-2010, 04:15 PM   #13
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ok, thanks again guys, isnt there a way to have the front wheels spinning while the rear wheels freewheel?
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Old 12-30-2010, 04:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxROELKEYxx View Post
ok, thanks again guys, isnt there a way to have the front wheels spinning while the rear wheels freewheel?
You need a radio with a 3rd channel 3 position switch and you have to dial it in to work,,the dig is 3 position,,,4wd,freewheel,rear wheels locked
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Old 12-30-2010, 04:22 PM   #15
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ok, thank you...i just think i will use 4WD all the time...lol...i will let yall know how it does when i get my driveshaft issues all worked out, and i will post some pics
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:48 PM   #16
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if your dig is grinding when you engage it then that means that your servo isnt fully engaging the dig unit. you will have to adjust the servo horn on the servo so that the dig is fully extended all the way out to completely lock the rear wheels...i had the same problem on my dig and i adjusted the servo horn position to fully extend to engage the dig unit all the way out when i used it. hope this helps you out some
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:47 PM   #17
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for the body rubbing take your shocks off the truck remove the rodend slide on a peice of fuel line or somthing like that and you have limited the shocks so they do not rub cheap and easy and you dont need to cut the body
and the tires are great on scalers i run a set on my ttc truck and they look good and will do well in the mud snow and with some cutting work pretty good on the rocks
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Old 12-31-2010, 08:21 PM   #18
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Thanks, i put loc-tite on my driveshafts today and the 4WD worked like a champ...I went crawling on our millings pile on our farm and it only spun in really loose gravel, i could usually just steer around the really fine stuff...This truck really impresses me for $180.
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:12 PM   #19
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That's not something you really want to happen...you want the back end to lock up.
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Originally Posted by xxROELKEYxx View Post
ok, thanks again guys, isnt there a way to have the front wheels spinning while the rear wheels freewheel?
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:14 PM   #20
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where did you get a Safari for $180????
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxROELKEYxx View Post
Thanks, i put loc-tite on my driveshafts today and the 4WD worked like a champ...I went crawling on our millings pile on our farm and it only spun in really loose gravel, i could usually just steer around the really fine stuff...This truck really impresses me for $180.
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