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-   -   28's Creeper (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/venom-creeper/293961-28s-creeper.html)

28offroader 01-20-2011 12:56 AM

28's Creeper
 
Got it in my head a couple of weeks ago that I wanted a Crawler to mess around with. Started reading through here and decided on a Creeper as most peeps here who has them had mostly good things to say about them.
Well, it arrived the other day and the fun started tonight.

So far I've ordered up...
Tekin FXR esc/35T Pro motor
Castle BEC
Power HD HD-9150MG servo (never ran a Power HD servo before, but from the reviews I've read they're suppose to be a good bang for the buck servo)
3-Racing CR-01 driveshafts
Hot Racing rear lockouts
Couple 3s Lipo's

Still waiting for a few things to arrive...
Will be running a cheapy radio for starters. If I end up running this often then I'll opt for another reciever for my Futaba 3PM-X.

Got me a free T-Shirt with the order..:mrgreen:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/dbffbe6f.jpg

The Red looked great.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/a434e932.jpg

But most had to go!
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fda02604.jpg

Will start getting into the actual build tomorrow. As I go along if anybody sees anything off or any recommendations feel free to post away.

Grumpster1980 01-20-2011 01:26 PM

Take your time and use Blue lock tight on the all the set screws and you will be fine. You could use the FLM lockers but my stock lockers are still holding strong after 1 year. There was a guy who sold these brass sleeves that helped to hold in the pins on the axles where the C-hub connects and they have made mine bullet proff. Other than that I run mine stock. I am not sure if he sells them anymore.

A 35T motor is a good combo of speed and torque.


**EDIT** Found the thread....if you can buy some from this guy they are amazing and a great price! I bought 4 and they are still keeping my pins in and no breakage. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...ighlight=brass & here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...23#post2342523

ninetwofiveRC 01-20-2011 01:32 PM

have fun!

those links are looking good!

id suggest to get some nice tires asap. like some hb rovers or something. stock tires arent good at all..

get the sleeves for the CVD's or wrap it with a little strip of electrical tape (thats what i have, still works good)

the lockers that it has are ok.., but i suggest just to JB weld them..

but have fun and im looking forward to see what it looks like!

what color are you painting the body?

im2tall 01-20-2011 03:17 PM

Stock tires are only goodd vvvv
 
for trail riding or bashing they're not bad just not good crawling tires !! They just look good !!:afro:

rmdesignworks 01-20-2011 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpster1980 (Post 2873500)
Take your time and use Blue lock tight on the all the set screws and you will be fine. You could use the FLM lockers but my stock lockers are still holding strong after 1 year. There was a guy who sold these brass sleeves that helped to hold in the pins on the axles where the C-hub connects and they have made mine bullet proff. Other than that I run mine stock. I am not sure if he sells them anymore.

A 35T motor is a good combo of speed and torque.


**EDIT** Found the thread....if you can buy some from this guy they are amazing and a great price! I bought 4 and they are still keeping my pins in and no breakage. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...ighlight=brass & here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...23#post2342523

Loki doesnt do the cvd pin retainers anymore,,I do. Tey are Paradox Pin Lox,,6 for $10.00 shipped in the US.

venomcrawlerdud 01-20-2011 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 28offroader (Post 2872705)
Got it in my head a couple of weeks ago that I wanted a Crawler to mess around with. Started reading through here and decided on a Creeper as most peeps here who has them had mostly good things to say about them.
Well, it arrived the other day and the fun started tonight.

So far I've ordered up...
Tekin FXR esc/35T Pro motor
Castle BEC
Power HD HD-9150MG servo (never ran a Power HD servo before, but from the reviews I've read they're suppose to be a good bang for the buck servo)
3-Racing CR-01 driveshafts
Hot Racing rear lockouts
Couple 3s Lipo's

Still waiting for a few things to arrive...
Will be running a cheapy radio for starters. If I end up running this often then I'll opt for another reciever for my Futaba 3PM-X.

Got me a free T-Shirt with the order..:mrgreen:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/dbffbe6f.jpg

The Red looked great.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/a434e932.jpg

But most had to go!
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fda02604.jpg

Will start getting into the actual build tomorrow. As I go along if anybody sees anything off or any recommendations feel free to post away.

how did you get the rings a darker red and how did you ploish the links and other hardware after you deanodised them ?

28offroader 01-21-2011 03:03 AM

Thanks for the tips.
I for sure used lock tight at all metal to metal. I left the stock spiders in and tightened down the set screw. If it gives me any problems I'll do one of the mods or get the FLM's.
For the tires, I have a set of Pro-Line Hammers on my Slash. I'm thinking about just swaping them. Are the Hammers any good?
For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninetwofiveRC (Post 2873509)
what color are you painting the body?

Not 100% on it yet but I'm leaning towards Black and Red.

Quote:

Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud (Post 2874220)
how did you get the rings a darker red and how did you ploish the links and other hardware after you deanodised them ?

Did'nt do anything to the beadlocks, must just be the way they turned out in the pics.
For the polishing I did a quick rub with some Eagle One Never Dull. Then I squessed out some of the polishing compound from the Never Dull wad onto a polishing pad on the dremel. Did'nt take long for the dremel to polish a piece up but did take a couple of hours to get them all finished.
For the links I originally polished them going back and forth long ways, but found out circling around worked much better.

28offroader 01-21-2011 03:23 AM

I still plan on doing some mods to make it handle better but I wanted to build it stock first to see how everything is put together. So far the build is going good. The tranny was a little tight but busted out the drill spun it around. After that it got a little bit better but still too tight for my liking. Hopefully it won't be an issue.
Everything has been in the kit so far, no missing pieces. Though Venom had a package misrepresented. Confused me for a minute but got it figured out. Looks like by tomorrow night I'll have it running...hopefully.

Few pics of the progress...

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/e17b7c48.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/990d6ba0.jpg

Venom's OOooops..
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/b1377134.jpg

Got my driveshafts in the mail today
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/f87e2ec1.jpg

But that blue had to go too!
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/0b80adf8.jpg

Finally felt like I was getting somewhere
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/84b05c95.jpg

Probly going to get rid of the batt tray but we'll see
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/66b57dd2.jpg

Axles Done
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/02f7a538.jpg

Got the 2 set screws in each and electrical tape
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/21422a08.jpg

How it sits tonight
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fe7009be.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/711c63df.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/552a6d06.jpg

ninetwofiveRC 01-22-2011 05:29 PM

dang looks good man, so must better than the usual green or red links and things, it coming along good and i see you used my idea with the electrical tape "thumbsup"

rmdesignworks 01-22-2011 05:35 PM

28,,before you go any further,,take the battery tray back off and install your motor,,,did your builders guide have the note at the bottom of the tranny build page to install the motor? it really needs to be done when the tranny is built and before the tranny is installed in the chassis/skids.

rmdesignworks 01-22-2011 05:40 PM

[QUOTE=28offroader;2874654]Thanks for the tips.

For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol.
QUOTE]

the red loctite will help but probably wont hold..the cvd pins have a lot of stress on them...probably the highest stressed part on the rig...and if/when they let loose,,tape wont stop them...just keep an eye on them frequently.

ninetwofiveRC 01-22-2011 07:24 PM

[QUOTE=rmdesignworks;2878135]
Quote:

Originally Posted by 28offroader (Post 2874654)
Thanks for the tips.

For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol.
QUOTE]

the red loctite will help but probably wont hold..the cvd pins have a lot of stress on them...probably the highest stressed part on the rig...and if/when they let loose,,tape wont stop them...just keep an eye on them frequently.

ive been using the electrical tape for a while now and had no problems, and im not using loctite or anything.

28offroader 01-23-2011 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks (Post 2878125)
28,,before you go any further,,take the battery tray back off and install your motor,,,did your builders guide have the note at the bottom of the tranny build page to install the motor? it really needs to be done when the tranny is built and before the tranny is installed in the chassis/skids.

Too late...lol
Yeah the directions had a note that said to install now or to wait untill step 38 or something like that.
I had read before that it's a pia to get the motor in and out afterwards but soldering is more of a pia for me. So I decided to deal with the hassle of putting the motor in later than trying to solder the wires on with the motor in place.



I'll for sure keep an eye on the pins. If I start to see them pokin through I'll order up some Pin Lok's and fix it for good. Hell, I might even order a set just in case...I hate waiting for stuff in the mail, lol.

28offroader 01-23-2011 05:01 AM

Got the shocks, wheels/tires built up and installed. Then jumped into all of the electronics, which sucked. That's more messin with wires then I've ever done before on any R/C, glad that's finished, lol. But I do plan on making something to protect the power capacitor on the ESC.
Should have body pics up by tomorrow.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/7bdcd267.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/6f289d72.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/d7914d53.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/a3d348a6.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fe560213.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/c579da2f.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/053db98c.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/4e0c0a0b.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/67930fa0.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/facc3db9.jpg

im2tall 01-23-2011 06:27 AM

Looks clean !!
 
I remember when my rig used to look like thar !!8)"thumbsup"

28offroader 01-25-2011 06:22 PM

Got the body painted/finished and HR lock-outs installed. Next is to start doing some modding...:mrgreen:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/c564d9d7.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/031c2127.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/59748941.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/9ab68f65.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/c97b0331.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/96b6a68b.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/46c0cc42.jpg

28offroader 01-27-2011 08:03 PM

Got some wrok done today on the Creeper. I made a rear link mount/battery holder. Grinding the lower rear pumpkin smooth. Reversed the rear skid plate. Mounted the shocks to lower links and to chassis.(also flipped them upright as I'm having leak issues) (Though the fronts need to be moved inward). Also made a protective cover for the battery capacitor on the ESC.
Big thanks for all of your guy's build threads to make getting a creeper set-up easy for us noobs...especially, rmdesignworks.

On to pics...but flaked on getting pics of the rear plate fab.

Here's the capacitor exposed..
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/7d0fe666.jpg

And the new protector plate
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/29fddcf3.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/2c4c0c95.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/ba2deb97.jpg

new rear link and battery mount
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/0322dc63.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/925c7b62.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/e5541c7b.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/58c809c9.jpg

front shocks that need to move inward to allow for more steering
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/4f73cb8e.jpg

28offroader 01-28-2011 07:25 PM

I'm still getting pretty bad torque twist with this set-up. If I go up an incline with my left front tire only, the right front will be higher (still suspended). If I go up an incline with my right tire then the left will follow. Going straight up will both wheels the right lifts and it wants to steer left.

Looking at my rig what all can I do to help this? I'm still running the shocks stock, what would be a good beginning shock set-up to tweak from?

rmdesignworks 01-28-2011 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 28offroader (Post 2892171)
I'm still getting pretty bad torque twist with this set-up. If I go up an incline with my left front tire only, the right front will be higher (still suspended). If I go up an incline with my right tire then the left will follow. Going straight up will both wheels the right lifts and it wants to steer left.

Looking at my rig what all can I do to help this? I'm still running the shocks stock, what would be a good beginning shock set-up to tweak from?


TT is mainly link geometry...you have the rear set up well enough but you also need to seperate the front uppers...move them to the outside of the link tabs on the axle...15mm worth of spacer/s will be needed between the tabs or two rod end balls. Heres the problem...the front axle roll center is still too close to the front axle. Also your shocks need to angle outward from the chassis to the axle mounting points...not like stock but a little. Having them so far apart at the top and almost equally spread at the axle/s makes for less outward spring response. My front shocks are almost straight up and down from the chassis to the axle but my front upper links are spread apart.

How much weight are you currently running in your front wheels? You need at least 3-4oz to help the front end settle the spring pre-loads.

mwscooters 01-28-2011 07:50 PM

NICE! can you tell me where you ordered the drive shafts from, when I do a search for them they say they are for tamiya, are those the right ones? thanks Greg

28offroader 01-28-2011 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks (Post 2892202)
TT is mainly link geometry...you have the rear set up well enough but you also need to seperate the front uppers...move them to the outside of the link tabs on the axle...15mm worth of spacer/s will be needed between the tabs or two rod end balls. Heres the problem...the front axle roll center is still too close to the front axle. Also your shocks need to angle outward from the chassis to the axle mounting points...not like stock but a little. Having them so far apart at the top and almost equally spread at the axle/s makes for less outward spring response. My front shocks are almost straight up and down from the chassis to the axle but my front upper links are spread apart.

How much weight are you currently running in your front wheels? You need at least 3-4oz to help the front end settle the spring pre-loads.

Cool, I'll move the front links and see what I can do to the shocks. I do plan on moving the shocks like yours inside of the chassis for better steering.
No weight yet in any of the wheels. I plan on getting some this weekend though. I'll go with 4 in fronts to start with. Thanks..

28offroader 01-28-2011 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwscooters (Post 2892216)
NICE! can you tell me where you ordered the drive shafts from, when I do a search for them they say they are for tamiya, are those the right ones? thanks Greg

Those are the right ones. They are for the Tamiya CR-01. They fit with no modifications, short in back, long in front. I bought mine from, the Toyz...
http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_deta...cat_name=CR-01

mwscooters 01-29-2011 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 28offroader (Post 2892643)
Those are the right ones. They are for the Tamiya CR-01. They fit with no modifications, short in back, long in front. I bought mine from, the Toyz...
http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_deta...cat_name=CR-01

Thanks for the info, there on the way. 7-14 days shipping cost $22.00. Should be awesome when installed.

asw27x 01-29-2011 08:59 PM

having weight in the front will help them stuck to the rocks and spreading the links apart will help as well and try to take the rear shock that is on the opposite sie of the one that is lifting and make it stiffer that will help as well but the links make the most difference

mwscooters 02-22-2011 03:43 PM

Got my CR-01 drive shafts FINALLY! one month shipping! Went to install no set screws. Does anyone know what size set screws to use in them. Thanks

rmdesignworks 02-23-2011 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asw27x (Post 2894126)
having weight in the front will help them stuck to the rocks and spreading the links apart will help as well and try to take the rear shock that is on the opposite sie of the one that is lifting and make it stiffer that will help as well but the links make the most difference


Guys as you all know I am a huge ANTI-STIFFER SPRING Protester for fixing or to decrease TT...all this does is make your suspension stiff and your rig unpredictable....link geometry is the way you fix TT,,,NOT SPRINGS AND OIL!

28offroader 02-21-2012 02:17 PM

Been a while since I've posted here but I'm now moving forward with getting this Creeper up to par. I don't comp but I want it to be capable as it can be whenever/wherever I do run it.
Since the last post of done a few other little things to it. Moved the front upper links and shocks, took the bend out of the rear lowers and flipped them, put on some Rover white dots and added about 4oz of weight in the front tires, rc4wd front axles, pin loxs and JB welded the diffs. All of these mods are an improvment but I'm still not where I want to be with it.
Pic of how it sits now...
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/ee67397f.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/b155645c.jpg
My shocks leak, steering servo is crap and I hav'nt been able to get the TT down to minimum where I can live with it, so in hopes to rectify the problems, I've got parts on order.

Parts list ordered....
RMDW XRv2 chassis
RMDW BTL kit
RMDW front/rear truss kit
RMDW bec jack
Hitec 7954sh servo
Losi 4" shocks
New style venom tranny skid

Debating on whether to order the HR knuckles and c hubs. The stockers have held up great so far and having a spare from the rear lockout install I think I'm good for a while. Just wondering if they're going to become the weak link real quick once these other parts are installed though?




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venomcrawlerdud 02-21-2012 04:29 PM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
if the knuckles and C's have held up well, then i would say stay with them. but the front truss kit was designed with the use of the aluminum C's. the XRv2 will definitely be worth the wait. Ive run mine for a while and i love it. along with that the BLT steering will give u more steering and allow u to bring that battery of the back and be able to mount it right on that front axle "thumbsup"

28offroader 02-21-2012 05:28 PM

If the front truss was designed around the HR aluminum c hubs then I'll just go ahead and pick those up along with the knuckles.
I do plan on moving the batt up front but I'm not sure the 2200mah battery that I have will allow for steering clearance. I'm going to look into a smaller mah.
Anybody know the max size or mah batt that'll still allow for steering clearance on the rmdw bta kit?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

rmdesignworks 02-21-2012 05:36 PM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 28offroader (Post 3582678)
If the front truss was designed around the HR aluminum c hubs then I'll just go ahead and pick those up along with the knuckles.
I do plan on moving the batt up front but I'm not sure the 2200mah battery that I have will allow for steering clearance. I'm going to look into a smaller mah.
Anybody know the max size or mah batt that'll still allow for steering clearance on the rmdw bta kit?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

The trusses will work with the stock C's youll just have to add a couple of washers to make the difference is between the HR C's and the stock plastics...but its not much.

1350's will fit

28offroader 02-21-2012 08:19 PM

Alright, I'll look for some 1350 mah.
Good to know the truss will work with the hubs. Probly going to still get the aluminum HR goodies, it'll be good to have the piece of mind.


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

santa cruz crawler 02-23-2012 05:19 PM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
:mrgreen:The polished links look sick , did you use oven cleaner? and the xrv2 kit is going to look cool with the links as well !! the losi shocks w white springs is what the paradox team uses on the crawlers , i havent heard of tt with these shocks . subscribed 8)

viper6171 02-23-2012 08:57 PM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
rigs looking good 28 welcome to the sicness

28offroader 02-23-2012 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by santa cruz crawler (Post 3587356)
:mrgreen:The polished links look sick , did you use oven cleaner? and the xrv2 kit is going to look cool with the links as well !! the losi shocks w white springs is what the paradox team uses on the crawlers , i havent heard of tt with these shocks . subscribed 8)

Thanks, I used Commercial strength Greased Lightning straight up. Did'nt care for it cause it took a long time...about 30-40 minutes soaking. I've used Industrial strength before and that works a lot better, only takes about 10-15 minutes.

I'm sure there will still be TT but hopefully at a minimum with it all set up together.


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

28offroader 02-23-2012 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viper6171 (Post 3587918)
rigs looking good 28 welcome to the sicness

Thanks bro...


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

venomcrawlerdud 02-23-2012 10:45 PM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
the tt will go away if u have ur links geo set properly/ based on some previus pics, try moving your rear link mounting holes on the chassis down some and try moving your front link mounting points on the chassis up some. front link geo will do just as much as the rear when it comes to elimating tt with link geo

28offroader 02-23-2012 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud (Post 3588185)
the tt will go away if u have ur links geo set properly/ based on some previus pics, try moving your rear link mounting holes on the chassis down some and try moving your front link mounting points on the chassis up some. front link geo will do just as much as the rear when it comes to elimating tt with link geo

Rear uppers at the chassis are as low as they can go without modding a new mount. Same for the front upper height ... or having to shorten the links to mount in existing holes. Neither of which I want to do untill the new chassis gets here and see how it works out. I'll set the links like you described and start there.
I think my biggest problem right now are the shocks. Always leaking fluid, loosing dampning is just making them too soft.



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santa cruz crawler 02-24-2012 12:23 AM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
mine leak also. and the top caps strip out with time , the springs are too soft , i got the ckrc stage 2 kit , the springs that it comes with seem to be much better, but i will be purchasing the losi shocks w white springs .
trial an error:mrgreen:

venomcrawlerdud 02-24-2012 12:37 AM

Re: 28's Creeper
 
i bought the stage 2 kit for mine as well. i'm using the 70mm links on mine. but what i had to do to get my tt down was drill 4 new holes in the chassis. with having links that were long enough it was just as simple as figuring out where i wanted the holes to be

28offroader 02-24-2012 11:13 AM

I see a lot if guys running the 70mm links but I hav'nt read where it says why it's better??


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