28's Creeper Got it in my head a couple of weeks ago that I wanted a Crawler to mess around with. Started reading through here and decided on a Creeper as most peeps here who has them had mostly good things to say about them. Well, it arrived the other day and the fun started tonight. So far I've ordered up... Tekin FXR esc/35T Pro motor Castle BEC Power HD HD-9150MG servo (never ran a Power HD servo before, but from the reviews I've read they're suppose to be a good bang for the buck servo) 3-Racing CR-01 driveshafts Hot Racing rear lockouts Couple 3s Lipo's Still waiting for a few things to arrive... Will be running a cheapy radio for starters. If I end up running this often then I'll opt for another reciever for my Futaba 3PM-X. Got me a free T-Shirt with the order..:mrgreen: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/dbffbe6f.jpg The Red looked great. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/a434e932.jpg But most had to go! http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fda02604.jpg Will start getting into the actual build tomorrow. As I go along if anybody sees anything off or any recommendations feel free to post away. |
Take your time and use Blue lock tight on the all the set screws and you will be fine. You could use the FLM lockers but my stock lockers are still holding strong after 1 year. There was a guy who sold these brass sleeves that helped to hold in the pins on the axles where the C-hub connects and they have made mine bullet proff. Other than that I run mine stock. I am not sure if he sells them anymore. A 35T motor is a good combo of speed and torque. **EDIT** Found the thread....if you can buy some from this guy they are amazing and a great price! I bought 4 and they are still keeping my pins in and no breakage. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...ighlight=brass & here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...23#post2342523 |
have fun! those links are looking good! id suggest to get some nice tires asap. like some hb rovers or something. stock tires arent good at all.. get the sleeves for the CVD's or wrap it with a little strip of electrical tape (thats what i have, still works good) the lockers that it has are ok.., but i suggest just to JB weld them.. but have fun and im looking forward to see what it looks like! what color are you painting the body? |
Stock tires are only goodd vvvv for trail riding or bashing they're not bad just not good crawling tires !! They just look good !!:afro: |
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Thanks for the tips. I for sure used lock tight at all metal to metal. I left the stock spiders in and tightened down the set screw. If it gives me any problems I'll do one of the mods or get the FLM's. For the tires, I have a set of Pro-Line Hammers on my Slash. I'm thinking about just swaping them. Are the Hammers any good? For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol. Quote:
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For the polishing I did a quick rub with some Eagle One Never Dull. Then I squessed out some of the polishing compound from the Never Dull wad onto a polishing pad on the dremel. Did'nt take long for the dremel to polish a piece up but did take a couple of hours to get them all finished. For the links I originally polished them going back and forth long ways, but found out circling around worked much better. |
I still plan on doing some mods to make it handle better but I wanted to build it stock first to see how everything is put together. So far the build is going good. The tranny was a little tight but busted out the drill spun it around. After that it got a little bit better but still too tight for my liking. Hopefully it won't be an issue. Everything has been in the kit so far, no missing pieces. Though Venom had a package misrepresented. Confused me for a minute but got it figured out. Looks like by tomorrow night I'll have it running...hopefully. Few pics of the progress... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/e17b7c48.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/990d6ba0.jpg Venom's OOooops.. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/b1377134.jpg Got my driveshafts in the mail today http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/f87e2ec1.jpg But that blue had to go too! http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/0b80adf8.jpg Finally felt like I was getting somewhere http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/84b05c95.jpg Probly going to get rid of the batt tray but we'll see http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/66b57dd2.jpg Axles Done http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/02f7a538.jpg Got the 2 set screws in each and electrical tape http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/21422a08.jpg How it sits tonight http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fe7009be.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/711c63df.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/552a6d06.jpg |
dang looks good man, so must better than the usual green or red links and things, it coming along good and i see you used my idea with the electrical tape "thumbsup" |
28,,before you go any further,,take the battery tray back off and install your motor,,,did your builders guide have the note at the bottom of the tranny build page to install the motor? it really needs to be done when the tranny is built and before the tranny is installed in the chassis/skids. |
[QUOTE=28offroader;2874654]Thanks for the tips. For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol. QUOTE] the red loctite will help but probably wont hold..the cvd pins have a lot of stress on them...probably the highest stressed part on the rig...and if/when they let loose,,tape wont stop them...just keep an eye on them frequently. |
[QUOTE=rmdesignworks;2878135] Quote:
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Yeah the directions had a note that said to install now or to wait untill step 38 or something like that. I had read before that it's a pia to get the motor in and out afterwards but soldering is more of a pia for me. So I decided to deal with the hassle of putting the motor in later than trying to solder the wires on with the motor in place. I'll for sure keep an eye on the pins. If I start to see them pokin through I'll order up some Pin Lok's and fix it for good. Hell, I might even order a set just in case...I hate waiting for stuff in the mail, lol. |
Got the shocks, wheels/tires built up and installed. Then jumped into all of the electronics, which sucked. That's more messin with wires then I've ever done before on any R/C, glad that's finished, lol. But I do plan on making something to protect the power capacitor on the ESC. Should have body pics up by tomorrow. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/7bdcd267.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/6f289d72.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/d7914d53.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/a3d348a6.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/fe560213.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/c579da2f.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/053db98c.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/4e0c0a0b.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/67930fa0.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/facc3db9.jpg |
Looks clean !! I remember when my rig used to look like thar !!8)"thumbsup" |
Got the body painted/finished and HR lock-outs installed. Next is to start doing some modding...:mrgreen: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/c564d9d7.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/031c2127.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/59748941.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/9ab68f65.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/c97b0331.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/96b6a68b.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/46c0cc42.jpg |
Got some wrok done today on the Creeper. I made a rear link mount/battery holder. Grinding the lower rear pumpkin smooth. Reversed the rear skid plate. Mounted the shocks to lower links and to chassis.(also flipped them upright as I'm having leak issues) (Though the fronts need to be moved inward). Also made a protective cover for the battery capacitor on the ESC. Big thanks for all of your guy's build threads to make getting a creeper set-up easy for us noobs...especially, rmdesignworks. On to pics...but flaked on getting pics of the rear plate fab. Here's the capacitor exposed.. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/7d0fe666.jpg And the new protector plate http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/29fddcf3.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/2c4c0c95.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/ba2deb97.jpg new rear link and battery mount http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/0322dc63.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/925c7b62.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/e5541c7b.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/58c809c9.jpg front shocks that need to move inward to allow for more steering http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/4f73cb8e.jpg |
I'm still getting pretty bad torque twist with this set-up. If I go up an incline with my left front tire only, the right front will be higher (still suspended). If I go up an incline with my right tire then the left will follow. Going straight up will both wheels the right lifts and it wants to steer left. Looking at my rig what all can I do to help this? I'm still running the shocks stock, what would be a good beginning shock set-up to tweak from? |
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TT is mainly link geometry...you have the rear set up well enough but you also need to seperate the front uppers...move them to the outside of the link tabs on the axle...15mm worth of spacer/s will be needed between the tabs or two rod end balls. Heres the problem...the front axle roll center is still too close to the front axle. Also your shocks need to angle outward from the chassis to the axle mounting points...not like stock but a little. Having them so far apart at the top and almost equally spread at the axle/s makes for less outward spring response. My front shocks are almost straight up and down from the chassis to the axle but my front upper links are spread apart. How much weight are you currently running in your front wheels? You need at least 3-4oz to help the front end settle the spring pre-loads. |
NICE! can you tell me where you ordered the drive shafts from, when I do a search for them they say they are for tamiya, are those the right ones? thanks Greg |
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No weight yet in any of the wheels. I plan on getting some this weekend though. I'll go with 4 in fronts to start with. Thanks.. |
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http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_deta...cat_name=CR-01 |
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having weight in the front will help them stuck to the rocks and spreading the links apart will help as well and try to take the rear shock that is on the opposite sie of the one that is lifting and make it stiffer that will help as well but the links make the most difference |
Got my CR-01 drive shafts FINALLY! one month shipping! Went to install no set screws. Does anyone know what size set screws to use in them. Thanks |
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Guys as you all know I am a huge ANTI-STIFFER SPRING Protester for fixing or to decrease TT...all this does is make your suspension stiff and your rig unpredictable....link geometry is the way you fix TT,,,NOT SPRINGS AND OIL! |
Been a while since I've posted here but I'm now moving forward with getting this Creeper up to par. I don't comp but I want it to be capable as it can be whenever/wherever I do run it. Since the last post of done a few other little things to it. Moved the front upper links and shocks, took the bend out of the rear lowers and flipped them, put on some Rover white dots and added about 4oz of weight in the front tires, rc4wd front axles, pin loxs and JB welded the diffs. All of these mods are an improvment but I'm still not where I want to be with it. Pic of how it sits now... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/ee67397f.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/b155645c.jpg My shocks leak, steering servo is crap and I hav'nt been able to get the TT down to minimum where I can live with it, so in hopes to rectify the problems, I've got parts on order. Parts list ordered.... RMDW XRv2 chassis RMDW BTL kit RMDW front/rear truss kit RMDW bec jack Hitec 7954sh servo Losi 4" shocks New style venom tranny skid Debating on whether to order the HR knuckles and c hubs. The stockers have held up great so far and having a spare from the rear lockout install I think I'm good for a while. Just wondering if they're going to become the weak link real quick once these other parts are installed though? Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk |
Re: 28's Creeper if the knuckles and C's have held up well, then i would say stay with them. but the front truss kit was designed with the use of the aluminum C's. the XRv2 will definitely be worth the wait. Ive run mine for a while and i love it. along with that the BLT steering will give u more steering and allow u to bring that battery of the back and be able to mount it right on that front axle "thumbsup" |
If the front truss was designed around the HR aluminum c hubs then I'll just go ahead and pick those up along with the knuckles. I do plan on moving the batt up front but I'm not sure the 2200mah battery that I have will allow for steering clearance. I'm going to look into a smaller mah. Anybody know the max size or mah batt that'll still allow for steering clearance on the rmdw bta kit? Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk |
Re: 28's Creeper Quote:
1350's will fit |
Alright, I'll look for some 1350 mah. Good to know the truss will work with the hubs. Probly going to still get the aluminum HR goodies, it'll be good to have the piece of mind. Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk |
Re: 28's Creeper :mrgreen:The polished links look sick , did you use oven cleaner? and the xrv2 kit is going to look cool with the links as well !! the losi shocks w white springs is what the paradox team uses on the crawlers , i havent heard of tt with these shocks . subscribed 8) |
Re: 28's Creeper rigs looking good 28 welcome to the sicness |
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I'm sure there will still be TT but hopefully at a minimum with it all set up together. Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk |
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Re: 28's Creeper the tt will go away if u have ur links geo set properly/ based on some previus pics, try moving your rear link mounting holes on the chassis down some and try moving your front link mounting points on the chassis up some. front link geo will do just as much as the rear when it comes to elimating tt with link geo |
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I think my biggest problem right now are the shocks. Always leaking fluid, loosing dampning is just making them too soft. Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk |
Re: 28's Creeper mine leak also. and the top caps strip out with time , the springs are too soft , i got the ckrc stage 2 kit , the springs that it comes with seem to be much better, but i will be purchasing the losi shocks w white springs . trial an error:mrgreen: |
Re: 28's Creeper i bought the stage 2 kit for mine as well. i'm using the 70mm links on mine. but what i had to do to get my tt down was drill 4 new holes in the chassis. with having links that were long enough it was just as simple as figuring out where i wanted the holes to be |
I see a lot if guys running the 70mm links but I hav'nt read where it says why it's better?? Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk |
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