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Old 01-20-2011, 01:56 AM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default 28's Creeper

Got it in my head a couple of weeks ago that I wanted a Crawler to mess around with. Started reading through here and decided on a Creeper as most peeps here who has them had mostly good things to say about them.
Well, it arrived the other day and the fun started tonight.

So far I've ordered up...
Tekin FXR esc/35T Pro motor
Castle BEC
Power HD HD-9150MG servo (never ran a Power HD servo before, but from the reviews I've read they're suppose to be a good bang for the buck servo)
3-Racing CR-01 driveshafts
Hot Racing rear lockouts
Couple 3s Lipo's

Still waiting for a few things to arrive...
Will be running a cheapy radio for starters. If I end up running this often then I'll opt for another reciever for my Futaba 3PM-X.

Got me a free T-Shirt with the order..


The Red looked great.


But most had to go!


Will start getting into the actual build tomorrow. As I go along if anybody sees anything off or any recommendations feel free to post away.
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:26 PM   #2
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Take your time and use Blue lock tight on the all the set screws and you will be fine. You could use the FLM lockers but my stock lockers are still holding strong after 1 year. There was a guy who sold these brass sleeves that helped to hold in the pins on the axles where the C-hub connects and they have made mine bullet proff. Other than that I run mine stock. I am not sure if he sells them anymore.

A 35T motor is a good combo of speed and torque.


**EDIT** Found the thread....if you can buy some from this guy they are amazing and a great price! I bought 4 and they are still keeping my pins in and no breakage. Venom Creeper CVD covers & here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...23#post2342523

Last edited by Grumpster1980; 01-20-2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:32 PM   #3
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have fun!

those links are looking good!

id suggest to get some nice tires asap. like some hb rovers or something. stock tires arent good at all..

get the sleeves for the CVD's or wrap it with a little strip of electrical tape (thats what i have, still works good)

the lockers that it has are ok.., but i suggest just to JB weld them..

but have fun and im looking forward to see what it looks like!

what color are you painting the body?
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:17 PM   #4
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Default Stock tires are only goodd vvvv

for trail riding or bashing they're not bad just not good crawling tires !! They just look good !!
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpster1980 View Post
Take your time and use Blue lock tight on the all the set screws and you will be fine. You could use the FLM lockers but my stock lockers are still holding strong after 1 year. There was a guy who sold these brass sleeves that helped to hold in the pins on the axles where the C-hub connects and they have made mine bullet proff. Other than that I run mine stock. I am not sure if he sells them anymore.

A 35T motor is a good combo of speed and torque.


**EDIT** Found the thread....if you can buy some from this guy they are amazing and a great price! I bought 4 and they are still keeping my pins in and no breakage. Venom Creeper CVD covers & here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...23#post2342523
Loki doesnt do the cvd pin retainers anymore,,I do. Tey are Paradox Pin Lox,,6 for $10.00 shipped in the US.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 28offroader View Post
Got it in my head a couple of weeks ago that I wanted a Crawler to mess around with. Started reading through here and decided on a Creeper as most peeps here who has them had mostly good things to say about them.
Well, it arrived the other day and the fun started tonight.

So far I've ordered up...
Tekin FXR esc/35T Pro motor
Castle BEC
Power HD HD-9150MG servo (never ran a Power HD servo before, but from the reviews I've read they're suppose to be a good bang for the buck servo)
3-Racing CR-01 driveshafts
Hot Racing rear lockouts
Couple 3s Lipo's

Still waiting for a few things to arrive...
Will be running a cheapy radio for starters. If I end up running this often then I'll opt for another reciever for my Futaba 3PM-X.

Got me a free T-Shirt with the order..


The Red looked great.


But most had to go!


Will start getting into the actual build tomorrow. As I go along if anybody sees anything off or any recommendations feel free to post away.
how did you get the rings a darker red and how did you ploish the links and other hardware after you deanodised them ?
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:03 AM   #7
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Thanks for the tips.
I for sure used lock tight at all metal to metal. I left the stock spiders in and tightened down the set screw. If it gives me any problems I'll do one of the mods or get the FLM's.
For the tires, I have a set of Pro-Line Hammers on my Slash. I'm thinking about just swaping them. Are the Hammers any good?
For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ninetwofiveRC View Post
what color are you painting the body?
Not 100% on it yet but I'm leaning towards Black and Red.

Quote:
Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud View Post
how did you get the rings a darker red and how did you ploish the links and other hardware after you deanodised them ?
Did'nt do anything to the beadlocks, must just be the way they turned out in the pics.
For the polishing I did a quick rub with some Eagle One Never Dull. Then I squessed out some of the polishing compound from the Never Dull wad onto a polishing pad on the dremel. Did'nt take long for the dremel to polish a piece up but did take a couple of hours to get them all finished.
For the links I originally polished them going back and forth long ways, but found out circling around worked much better.
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:23 AM   #8
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I still plan on doing some mods to make it handle better but I wanted to build it stock first to see how everything is put together. So far the build is going good. The tranny was a little tight but busted out the drill spun it around. After that it got a little bit better but still too tight for my liking. Hopefully it won't be an issue.
Everything has been in the kit so far, no missing pieces. Though Venom had a package misrepresented. Confused me for a minute but got it figured out. Looks like by tomorrow night I'll have it running...hopefully.

Few pics of the progress...




Venom's OOooops..


Got my driveshafts in the mail today


But that blue had to go too!


Finally felt like I was getting somewhere


Probly going to get rid of the batt tray but we'll see


Axles Done


Got the 2 set screws in each and electrical tape


How it sits tonight



Last edited by 28offroader; 01-21-2011 at 04:26 AM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:29 PM   #9
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dang looks good man, so must better than the usual green or red links and things, it coming along good and i see you used my idea with the electrical tape
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:35 PM   #10
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28,,before you go any further,,take the battery tray back off and install your motor,,,did your builders guide have the note at the bottom of the tranny build page to install the motor? it really needs to be done when the tranny is built and before the tranny is installed in the chassis/skids.
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:40 PM   #11
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[QUOTE=28offroader;2874654]Thanks for the tips.

For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol.
QUOTE]

the red loctite will help but probably wont hold..the cvd pins have a lot of stress on them...probably the highest stressed part on the rig...and if/when they let loose,,tape wont stop them...just keep an eye on them frequently.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:24 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=rmdesignworks;2878135]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 28offroader View Post
Thanks for the tips.

For the CVD's I found some other set screws laying around so I have 2 in each. Used Red lock tight (hope I won't regret that later) and wrapped some electrical tape around. Being an Electrician I had plenty on hand, lol.
QUOTE]

the red loctite will help but probably wont hold..the cvd pins have a lot of stress on them...probably the highest stressed part on the rig...and if/when they let loose,,tape wont stop them...just keep an eye on them frequently.
ive been using the electrical tape for a while now and had no problems, and im not using loctite or anything.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdesignworks View Post
28,,before you go any further,,take the battery tray back off and install your motor,,,did your builders guide have the note at the bottom of the tranny build page to install the motor? it really needs to be done when the tranny is built and before the tranny is installed in the chassis/skids.
Too late...lol
Yeah the directions had a note that said to install now or to wait untill step 38 or something like that.
I had read before that it's a pia to get the motor in and out afterwards but soldering is more of a pia for me. So I decided to deal with the hassle of putting the motor in later than trying to solder the wires on with the motor in place.



I'll for sure keep an eye on the pins. If I start to see them pokin through I'll order up some Pin Lok's and fix it for good. Hell, I might even order a set just in case...I hate waiting for stuff in the mail, lol.
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:01 AM   #14
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Got the shocks, wheels/tires built up and installed. Then jumped into all of the electronics, which sucked. That's more messin with wires then I've ever done before on any R/C, glad that's finished, lol. But I do plan on making something to protect the power capacitor on the ESC.
Should have body pics up by tomorrow.











Last edited by 28offroader; 01-23-2011 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:27 AM   #15
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Default Looks clean !!

I remember when my rig used to look like thar !!
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:22 PM   #16
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Got the body painted/finished and HR lock-outs installed. Next is to start doing some modding...







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Old 01-27-2011, 09:03 PM   #17
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Got some wrok done today on the Creeper. I made a rear link mount/battery holder. Grinding the lower rear pumpkin smooth. Reversed the rear skid plate. Mounted the shocks to lower links and to chassis.(also flipped them upright as I'm having leak issues) (Though the fronts need to be moved inward). Also made a protective cover for the battery capacitor on the ESC.
Big thanks for all of your guy's build threads to make getting a creeper set-up easy for us noobs...especially, rmdesignworks.

On to pics...but flaked on getting pics of the rear plate fab.

Here's the capacitor exposed..


And the new protector plate




new rear link and battery mount





front shocks that need to move inward to allow for more steering
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:25 PM   #18
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I'm still getting pretty bad torque twist with this set-up. If I go up an incline with my left front tire only, the right front will be higher (still suspended). If I go up an incline with my right tire then the left will follow. Going straight up will both wheels the right lifts and it wants to steer left.

Looking at my rig what all can I do to help this? I'm still running the shocks stock, what would be a good beginning shock set-up to tweak from?
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 28offroader View Post
I'm still getting pretty bad torque twist with this set-up. If I go up an incline with my left front tire only, the right front will be higher (still suspended). If I go up an incline with my right tire then the left will follow. Going straight up will both wheels the right lifts and it wants to steer left.

Looking at my rig what all can I do to help this? I'm still running the shocks stock, what would be a good beginning shock set-up to tweak from?

TT is mainly link geometry...you have the rear set up well enough but you also need to seperate the front uppers...move them to the outside of the link tabs on the axle...15mm worth of spacer/s will be needed between the tabs or two rod end balls. Heres the problem...the front axle roll center is still too close to the front axle. Also your shocks need to angle outward from the chassis to the axle mounting points...not like stock but a little. Having them so far apart at the top and almost equally spread at the axle/s makes for less outward spring response. My front shocks are almost straight up and down from the chassis to the axle but my front upper links are spread apart.

How much weight are you currently running in your front wheels? You need at least 3-4oz to help the front end settle the spring pre-loads.
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:50 PM   #20
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NICE! can you tell me where you ordered the drive shafts from, when I do a search for them they say they are for tamiya, are those the right ones? thanks Greg

Last edited by mwscooters; 01-28-2011 at 09:00 PM.
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