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Old 03-10-2011, 05:54 AM   #21
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hey blue, theres going to be a comp on june 3-5 in prescott at watson lake. im going to be on vacation at that time and will be hitting up that comp. if you want to get out of the heat you should hit it up...heres the link to it. 2011 AZ Summer Shootout June 3-5 it will be nice to see some creepers from the forum hit it up...gotta get creeperbob and his wife rockinbetty to go also!!!

That sure would be nice! (especialy since I'll be working outside all summer, could sure use the break!). I even have a buddy with a cabin up there to crash at! Hmmm sounds like a plan! I hope to get involved in some comps very soon, I miss racing and all the good people I met at the track sharing the same passion. I'm sure all the crawler guys are the same, good times!
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:23 PM   #22
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So I finally got my parts from RMDW ( not Thomas's fault/postal almost a month) and so far just driving in the kitchen the TT is worse compared to my own rear link plate/battery mount. Gonna take it out tomorrow to "New Papago" and see how it does but so far I'm not to happy. The pin Locks I got only work on the front because they will not fit in the HR lockouts. I am looking forward to see how it does but I have a feeling that I'll be goin back to my own makeshift rear link mount. Thomas sent me some extra pin lox but I have no use for them since they dont fit in the HR lock outs. I coulda sworn somewhere I read here that they did but they sure dont fit in mine!
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:33 AM   #23
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pin lox do fit in hr lock outs. maybe you have a bad machined part with little tolerance. as far as the creeper link did you try all posable goeometry? remember you wan those upper links low on the chassis as much as posable and the rear up and spread out it will not eliminate tt nothing will on shaft drivin crawlers jus reduce it dramaticly. i say play with it mess around with all them holes on the creeper link that is what their for. good luck
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:50 AM   #24
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oh yea also you want the front upper links high on the chassis pointing downaard on the front axel. i sugest a new chassis so you can have more options for link position . the stock chassis justs limits the potental the creeper has.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:14 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by bluenosegoat View Post
The pin Locks I got only work on the front because they will not fit in the HR lockouts.Thomas sent me some extra pin lox but I have no use for them since they dont fit in the HR lock outs. I coulda sworn somewhere I read here that they did but they sure dont fit in mine!

Yea I couldn't use the pin lox with the HR lockouts either. I PMed Thomas about it and he said he never heard of anyone running pin lox inside the HR lockout. Thought I would ask him as I needed the creeper to be as bulletproof as possible.
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:34 AM   #26
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HERES THE DIAGRAM FROM THOMAS' THREAD ABOUT THE TT SITUATION , AS JOJO SAID THE REARS NEED TO BE HI AND ON THE INSIDE OF THE LINK BRACKET AT THE REAR AND LOW AT THE FRONT AND WIDE AS POSSIBLE. AS FOR THE FRONT LINKS, THEY NEED TO BE AS HIGHER AT THE CHASSIS END (ACTUALLY A LITTLE HIGHER THAN THE DIAGRAM SHOWS IN FIG.3) AND LOW AND TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE TABS AT THE FRONT WITH A 15mm SUPPORT BETWEEN THE TABS FOR STRENGHT.
ALSO WITH THE HR LOCKIUTS ,THE CLEARANCE IS SO CLOSE THAT THE PINS SHOULD'NT BE ABLE TO COME OUT (ACTING LIKE A PIN LOX).
AS FOR THE SPARE PINLOX'S MYSELF , BECAUSE WE HAVE MULTIPLE CREEPERS I HAVE EXTRA AXLE SETS AND THEY ARE ALL ASSYMBLED FOR SPARES AND I HAVE THEM WITH ME WHEN I GO OUT AND RUN , THEY ONLY TAKE A COUPLE MINUTES TO CHANGE,(I ALSO CARRY SPARE C HUBS ALSO).
ANYWAY HAVE A GREAT TIME AT PALPAGO, WISH I COULD MAKE IT UP THERE TODAY . WE'LL BE AT THE CASA GRANDE COMP ON 4-10. ROBERT







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Old 03-26-2011, 07:07 AM   #27
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I was really glad to find that diagram awhile back- it helped me with my own rear link plate. I do have to try some different posistions but its strange because the link placement with RMDW plate is so so so so close to where my plate put the links! After thinking about it I am wondering if i might have some bindage at the rear hex's- that might be causing the very apparent TT? I will definately get it to work one way or the other but the pin lox will not fit in my HR's no way no how, but I guess with them being that tight the pins cant come out anyways. If they work loose though they will certainly cause binding inside the HR hub. I have both the front and rear upper links at the inner most hole on the chassis (closest to the tranny) and on the rear the upper most forward hole- almost exactly where my home made plate put them- I didnt have to adjust the length at all. I still havent spread the front links but it had virtually no TT before putting on the link plate. Good thing I like tinkering on these trucks as much as i do driving them. I will find out soon as I get to the rocks this morning how it does and make some adjustments. This is a pic of my rear link locations. ( I keep finding myself looking at the Vulture chasiss- just might have to go that route!)
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Old 03-27-2011, 02:27 AM   #28
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sorry thought thomas said they do fit in the hr mybad bob is right as for a vultre chassis do it both vulture and vulture xr are great chassis they just plain out work. so many options for link placement strong and durable. keep up the good work!

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Old 03-27-2011, 05:30 PM   #29
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So I didnt make it out on Saturday due to my motorized bike. I cracked my frame at the rear dropouts half way there so I spent the day welding. (I go most everywhere on my bike thanks to gas prices and Obama!) Anyways got it out today and with some fiddleing I got the TT down to a minimum that I'm happy with. Went to a new spot since "New Papago" was over run with people goin to tempe town lake so I cant really compare to how it was but I sure out did my cousins RS10! I'm still running the stock front drive shaft, at least till it breaks then I'll swap in the Traxxas unit. Other than the need for an ota steering I think I'm ready to try a comp!
These are pics of my links now. I spread the front uppers but still need to make a brace for the shock/lower link like Creeperbob did. So far I'm stoked with the Creeper! ( and a pic of my most recent bike in progress- I use a kiddie trailer to haul my trucks around, I get alot of looks on my 6' long custom frame pulling my toys!)
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:45 PM   #30
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[ QUOTE] These are pics of my links now. I spread the front uppers but still need to make a brace for the shock/lower link like Creeperbob did. So far I'm stoked with the Creeper! [/QUOTE]

GLAD YA GOT IT WORKING MORE TO YOUR LIKING, THAT LINK / SHOCK SUPPORT IS THOMAS' IDEA I STOLE .
AND COOL BIKE
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:03 PM   #31
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Very gracious of you to recognize the originator of the link support Bob! LOL. I think I'll use some aluminum since there isnt much room for two rod ends but for now with the lower link in the stock posistion I think I'm okay but I do want to move the lower link inboard to get rid of tire rub. I cant keep my eyes off the vulture chasiss! Only draw back is my impatience with the mail! RMDW seems to be having some difficulty with them and I dont like waiting a month for something I can make myself, if I had the time! Cutting aluminum with the tools I have on hand takes for ever! I do have a plasma cutter though but steel is so dang heavy. Wheels are a turnin
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:20 PM   #32
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Nice battery tray!
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:31 AM   #33
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Nice battery tray!
Thanks! I was really skeptical about putting the battery on the rear axle but it seems to really work well. I dont have a scale yet to weigh my front wheels but I dont run any weight in the rear and it climbs very well and comes down the rocks nicely also. I am very impressed with it but I need to get out to a comp to see how it really compares to some experienced crawlers rigs. Just like I used to be super impressed with my Hornet till a buddy got the Gold Chassis RC10!!
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:59 AM   #34
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I think you'll be very suprised that the creeper set up will give many a run for there money.




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thanks! I was really skeptical about putting the battery on the rear axle but it seems to really work well. I dont have a scale yet to weigh my front wheels but i dont run any weight in the rear and it climbs very well and comes down the rocks nicely also. I am very impressed with it but i need to get out to a comp to see how it really compares to some experienced crawlers rigs. Just like i used to be super impressed with my hornet till a buddy got the gold chassis rc10!!
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:37 PM   #35
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Damn thats a cool ass bike. Do I see dual mufflers? That upper drive chain seems dangerous though.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:20 PM   #36
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Damn thats a cool ass bike. Do I see dual mufflers? That upper drive chain seems dangerous though.
Yep dual exhaust, sounds deeper and havent seen another bike like it, and the chain doesnt even get my jeans dirty! I've never actually even touched while riding but ya it does look scary! Thanks for the comment!
If I can tear myself away from my Creeper I just might get it painted now that everything is fitted and the welds are all good. All I think about lately is ROCKS, ROCKS AND MORE ROCKS LOL!
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:42 PM   #37
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[QUOTE= All I think about lately is ROCKS, ROCKS AND MORE ROCKS LOL![/QUOTE]


Thats the bug! Ive driven off the road staring at a rock pile, looking for approaches and lines....... on the way to work!
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:03 PM   #38
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I've gotten some work done on the creeper. Made new rear lower links- reversed the fronts, made support pieces for inboarding the front lower links and shocks, did a BTA steering set up, and made a new mount for the speed control which also serves as another chassis support. I think I might need a little more weight in the front now though with the speed control being relocated. I saw someone use washers inside the bead lock ring- think I will try that. I dont know how much weight i have now but I use strips or lead wraped around the wheel. Great stuff from lead backed drywall for x ray rooms! I hope to get out tomorrow and see how the changes affect it since I worked my self out of work! lol some play time is in order!
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:12 PM   #39
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LOOKING GOOD, LET US KNOW HOW SHE DOES.
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:00 PM   #40
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bluenose....in general it looks good. I'm sorta "" on your servo to knuckle angles....... Could you flip the servo arm and get a lesser angle from the servo to the knuckle??
I understand you need to clear the front shock.....but......wow.

Maybe my son, asw27x, will chime in later. I'm still a n00b in crawlers...
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