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05-18-2011, 05:05 PM | #21 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
| Quote:
Speed @ 6.0V: 0.18 sec/60° Torque @ 6.0V: 222 oz-in / 16.0 kg-cm Weight: 61g Bearing: Dual Type: Larger Standard Gear: Metal Case: Plastic Output Shaft: 25T Spline (Futaba) Case Size (LxWxH): 40.7x20x42.4mm How many volts should I program my BEC to run? | |
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05-18-2011, 05:05 PM | #22 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
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05-18-2011, 05:11 PM | #23 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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i would get a bec and ill get you a pic of what the tires looks like cut up and for the program put it to the voltage that the servo is designed for (in your case)6.0v as stated "Torque @ 6.0V: 222 oz-in / 16.0 kg-cm" |
05-18-2011, 05:19 PM | #24 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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here you go and in the last one you can see there are holes cut in the tires but as well in the rims so that the air escapes as fast as possable and its a comperison between stock sedonas and chisels (i like the chisels the best) |
05-18-2011, 05:21 PM | #25 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
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05-18-2011, 05:28 PM | #26 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: gervais
Posts: 1,715
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Before buying a castle link, find out if your lhs has one on their computers, so you can get yours set without having to pay $20 for just the bec, that's what I did at my lhs
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05-19-2011, 09:28 PM | #27 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
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I'm glad I didn't buy one. ...Now to figure out the wiring for it.hmm | |
05-19-2011, 09:34 PM | #28 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
| Quote:
Any suggestions? Is there a part I should get that is actually designed for like this guy has? | |
05-19-2011, 10:24 PM | #29 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: pullin somebody else out of a mud hole
Posts: 1,759
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welcome to the sickness , you have to have one of the most detailed builds i have seen on here . looks like you have made some good progress , those shock mounts you are refering to are from a losi comp crawler .
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05-19-2011, 11:02 PM | #30 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: philly
Posts: 129
| I would go with the option on the left, mounted on the lower axle, i have mine set up with the shock mounted on the inside of the chassis on the front, with a support between the chassis plates and outside the chassis on the rear. but it depends on how you want the shocks to react, i believe if they stand up more they are more linear and if they are more layed down they are more progressive??/ good luck and welcome
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05-20-2011, 03:43 PM | #31 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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for the front i would say the left one as well and for the rear use the mount you made and run the shock on the lower mounts because it helps with thetorque twist if they are standingup more and softer and get a longer screw for the rear link mount and spread out the rear links and put a spacer inbetween the tabs for stength but looken good you run it yet and how you like it?? |
05-20-2011, 05:54 PM | #32 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
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Hmm, I wonder if i did a 3d print of the part i highlighted in RED in abs plastic as one piece if it would be strong enough... |
05-20-2011, 06:06 PM | #33 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Malta, NY
Posts: 1,340
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well you can buy that same link, thats just a little more refinded, from RMDW (or rmdesignworks) he makes a full line of parts made for the creeper heres his full line of parts RMDW T's & T's & set up and heres his biuld thread on the Creeper wagon,,,, if you need to order anything send him a PM. it might be a while but he will get back to you |
05-20-2011, 06:43 PM | #34 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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all you need is to copy the front servo mount and drill some holes in it and there you have it
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05-20-2011, 08:14 PM | #35 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
| Quote:
His stuff looks really good but I would like to do it myself. I just wonder how the abs would hold up vs the metal. I would have to add ribs for reinforcement but have a feeling it still wouldn't be good enough. | |
05-20-2011, 08:54 PM | #36 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Malta, NY
Posts: 1,340
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aluminum is your best bet for strong but light.
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05-20-2011, 10:07 PM | #37 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan
Posts: 278
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Just a thought as I just looked at your rig again. You might want to remove the mounting hole on the bottom of the axle where the diff is. On my dad's I got rid of everything in the red circles.
Last edited by Wicked Klown; 05-20-2011 at 10:11 PM. |
05-21-2011, 07:54 AM | #38 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: brooklyn
Posts: 161
| The upper shock mounts vv
You're looking for are the losi comp crawler shock mounts go check out CKRC under their losi parts listing thats where I got mine !!Don't buy the graphite ones !!
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05-21-2011, 07:58 AM | #39 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope.
Posts: 5,013
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Heres a couple things from the design and manufacture side of it.... Making your own part is fine if thats what you want to do...more power to ya man...but plastice/polymer based materials are not always the answer. ABS is not the best choice for a part like this..ABS is brittle in low temps and soft in high temps. Nylon is more stable. Now remember...with plastics/polymers you need much more material for strength. The plate you highlighted in the pic is around 2mm thick...for the same strength under load a polymer product would need to be around 4-5mm thick. This results in a added weight. If you want to make your own plate thats fine bt make from a material that will with stand a 4-6 foot fall and high/low temps and constant torque load. Ultra light weight high strength parts are best because then you can add the saved weight elsewhere. For instance: the Vulture chassis' that I make are made from 1/8" thick 6061 T6 aluminum alloy and milled tohave very little cross section and ultra light but as strong as possible...ask Bob's wife about the strength...I could not mill the same profile out of the same thickness of any plastic like Delrin because it would not be strong enoug and would flex horribly under load...much more cross cross section would be required or a thicker material would be needed...much higher weight. By the way....good thread! A couple of people could take lessons from you....kudos. Last edited by rmdesignworks; 05-21-2011 at 08:01 AM. |
05-21-2011, 09:31 AM | #40 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 517
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Great info. I started taking cnc machining classes at a shop so maybe I'll just wait untill I can get on that machine and make stuff from metal. I was thinking about modeling it and testing for fit with the abs parts, then bring it into cam acne machine it. |
Tags |
3d print, build, creeper, step by step, venom |
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