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Thread: Joywrex's Creeper Build (First RC ever)

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Old 05-18-2011, 05:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked Klown View Post
Yea it will work at 5.1 but your servo will not be at full power. On my old creeper I can it a few times at 5.1 then a friend used his castle link and upped it to 6volts for me. Later on I redid that rig and gave it to my dad with a new bec and a Sidewinder SV2 so I bought the castle link to program the bec and the esc. It's well worth the $20 for it.
Hmm ok, I guess I'll find a cc link. My servo is a Savox SC-0251mg. Here are the specs:
Speed @ 6.0V: 0.18 sec/60°
Torque @ 6.0V: 222 oz-in / 16.0 kg-cm
Weight: 61g
Bearing: Dual
Type: Larger Standard
Gear: Metal
Case: Plastic
Output Shaft: 25T Spline (Futaba)
Case Size (LxWxH): 40.7x20x42.4mm

How many volts should I program my BEC to run?
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:05 PM   #22
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On mine I drilled the rims, put 4 1/8" holes in each rim.
Cool, thanks for the info
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:11 PM   #23
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i would get a bec and ill get you a pic of what the tires looks like cut up

and for the program put it to the voltage that the servo is designed for (in your case)6.0v as stated

"Torque @ 6.0V: 222 oz-in / 16.0 kg-cm"
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:19 PM   #24
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here you go




and in the last one you can see there are holes cut in the tires but as well in the rims so that the air escapes as fast as possable
and its a comperison between stock sedonas and chisels (i like the chisels the best)
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:21 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by asw27x View Post
here you go




and in the last one you can see there are holes cut in the tires but as well in the rims so that the air escapes as fast as possable
and its a comperison between stock sedonas and chisels (i like the chisels the best)
Gotcha. Cool thanks.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:28 PM   #26
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Before buying a castle link, find out if your lhs has one on their computers, so you can get yours set without having to pay $20 for just the bec, that's what I did at my lhs
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:28 PM   #27
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Before buying a castle link, find out if your lhs has one on their computers, so you can get yours set without having to pay $20 for just the bec, that's what I did at my lhs
I work with some guys who are building prototypes of high altitude power generating kites. It turns out the have tons of these little guys laying around.

I'm glad I didn't buy one.

...Now to figure out the wiring for it.hmm
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:34 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud View Post
great biuld so fare. it might be more better of if you mount the shocks to the lower likes and on the chassie.
Ok I can't decide what shock mounting option I should choose. Here are my options:





Any suggestions? Is there a part I should get that is actually designed for like this guy has?
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:24 PM   #29
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welcome to the sickness , you have to have one of the most detailed builds i have seen on here . looks like you have made some good progress , those shock mounts you are refering to are from a losi comp crawler .
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:02 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by joywrex View Post
Ok I can't decide what shock mounting option I should choose. Here are my options:





Any suggestions? Is there a part I should get that is actually designed for like this guy has?
I would go with the option on the left, mounted on the lower axle, i have mine set up with the shock mounted on the inside of the chassis on the front, with a support between the chassis plates and outside the chassis on the rear. but it depends on how you want the shocks to react, i believe if they stand up more they are more linear and if they are more layed down they are more progressive??/ good luck and welcome
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:43 PM   #31
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for the front i would say the left one as well and for the rear use the mount you made and run the shock on the lower mounts because it helps with thetorque twist if they are standingup more and softer and get a longer screw for the rear link mount and spread out the rear links and put a spacer inbetween the tabs for stength
but looken good
you run it yet and how you like it??
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:54 PM   #32
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Hmm, I wonder if i did a 3d print of the part i highlighted in RED in abs plastic as one piece if it would be strong enough...

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Old 05-20-2011, 06:06 PM   #33
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well you can buy that same link, thats just a little more refinded, from RMDW (or rmdesignworks) he makes a full line of parts made for the creeper

heres his full line of parts
RMDW T's & T's & set up

and heres his biuld thread
on the Creeper wagon,,,,

if you need to order anything send him a PM. it might be a while but he will get back to you
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:43 PM   #34
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all you need is to copy the front servo mount and drill some holes in it and there you have it
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:14 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud View Post
well you can buy that same link, thats just a little more refinded, from RMDW (or rmdesignworks) he makes a full line of parts made for the creeper

heres his full line of parts
RMDW T's & T's & set up

and heres his biuld thread
on the Creeper wagon,,,,

if you need to order anything send him a PM. it might be a while but he will get back to you

His stuff looks really good but I would like to do it myself. I just wonder how the abs would hold up vs the metal. I would have to add ribs for reinforcement but have a feeling it still wouldn't be good enough.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:54 PM   #36
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aluminum is your best bet for strong but light.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:07 PM   #37
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Just a thought as I just looked at your rig again. You might want to remove the mounting hole on the bottom of the axle where the diff is. On my dad's I got rid of everything in the red circles.

Last edited by Wicked Klown; 05-20-2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:54 AM   #38
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Default The upper shock mounts vv

You're looking for are the losi comp crawler shock mounts go check out CKRC under their losi parts listing thats where I got mine !!Don't buy the graphite ones !!
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:58 AM   #39
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Heres a couple things from the design and manufacture side of it....

Making your own part is fine if thats what you want to do...more power to ya man...but plastice/polymer based materials are not always the answer. ABS is not the best choice for a part like this..ABS is brittle in low temps and soft in high temps. Nylon is more stable. Now remember...with plastics/polymers you need much more material for strength. The plate you highlighted in the pic is around 2mm thick...for the same strength under load a polymer product would need to be around 4-5mm thick. This results in a added weight. If you want to make your own plate thats fine bt make from a material that will with stand a 4-6 foot fall and high/low temps and constant torque load. Ultra light weight high strength parts are best because then you can add the saved weight elsewhere.

For instance: the Vulture chassis' that I make are made from 1/8" thick 6061 T6 aluminum alloy and milled tohave very little cross section and ultra light but as strong as possible...ask Bob's wife about the strength...I could not mill the same profile out of the same thickness of any plastic like Delrin because it would not be strong enoug and would flex horribly under load...much more cross cross section would be required or a thicker material would be needed...much higher weight.

By the way....good thread! A couple of people could take lessons from you....kudos.

Last edited by rmdesignworks; 05-21-2011 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:31 AM   #40
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Great info.

I started taking cnc machining classes at a shop so maybe I'll just wait untill I can get on that machine and make stuff from metal. I was thinking about modeling it and testing for fit with the abs parts, then bring it into cam acne machine it.
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