Joywrex's Creeper Build (First RC ever)

[jojo303d]

yup all i can find is the whole link nice to have spares tho

[joywrex]

I got the rear Paradox rear link plate.

I made a link but its a little bit too long I think. What do you think?

The axle is a cocked a little bit forward.

[bluenosegoat]

You might try moving your link back a hole or two to get the pinion up a bit? I like to use #8 all thread covered in brass tubing- super strong and very cheap way to try new link locations. I have read though that the factory drive shafts cant handle as much angle as say the Traxxas metal yokes, but the higher the pinion angle will only help your breakover.

[joywrex]

Originally Posted by bluenosegoat

You might try moving your link back a hole or two to get the pinion up a bit? I like to use #8 all thread covered in brass tubing- super strong and very cheap way to try new link locations. I have read though that the factory drive shafts cant handle as much angle as say the Traxxas metal yokes, but the higher the pinion angle will only help your breakover.

Yeah I worry about those stock drive shafts...

[bluenosegoat]

Originally Posted by joywrex

Yeah I worry about those stock drive shafts...

I actually twisted the plastic part of a Traxxas shaft so as a temp I put back on one of the "new" factory shafts- the ones with the bigger yoke and pin keepers and so far it has held up well. ( I bought another kit just for parts about a month ago) Maybe venom might send you the pin keepers for free? They come in the newer kits as an upgrade. Worth an email to them?

[joywrex]

I installed the RMDW rear upper link plate and made some new links for it. Notice the classy design on the links!




I had to move the front upper link separation back to stock because it was hitting the shocks. I lengthened the links a tiny bit though and used the holes that were further center on the chassis.



Any suggestions?

[CREEPERBOB]

Yes one suggestion for sure, you should build some sublinks to support your lower link/shock mount, the axle tabs will break off eventually.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...284119&page=16

CHECK POST #320 IN THIS LINK AND SCROLL DOWN TO THE FRONT AXLE SHOTS.

[joywrex]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Yes one suggestion for sure, you should build some sublinks to support your lower link/shock mount, the axle tabs will break off eventually.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...284119&page=16

CHECK POST #320 IN THIS LINK AND SCROLL DOWN TO THE FRONT AXLE SHOTS.

Sounds smart. I need to find those links to use on it though.

[bluenosegoat]

Along with bob's reply you can bend your front upper links to clear the shocks also. I made my axle supports out of alluminum and no broken tabs.

[joywrex]

I designed and printed a electronics tray for the new shape of the rear links. Now I have a 3s battery with the low wattage alarm.







I also finally got the lower link end I broke so now it can actually move

[joywrex]

Originally Posted by bluenosegoat

Along with bob's reply you can bend your front upper links to clear the shocks also. I made my axle supports out of alluminum and no broken tabs.

Oh cool. I'll do that.

[bluenosegoat]

Your battery tray looks great! I like it!

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by joywrex

Oh cool. I'll do that.

Yeah a 25-30* bend right in the middle or even 60/40 forward will give you plenty of clearance...

WHen I first built my rig and discovered the possibility of the steering performance I started tinkering with the upper links...I have bent links fornt and rear on my rig...the sublinks were especially necessary when 25-30mm long M3 screws were used for the lower front links and shocks when I started inboarding the set up...never have broken a tab since.

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by joywrex

Sounds smart. I need to find those links to use on it though.

THE LINKS I USED ARE STOCK AX-10 ROD ENDS, THEY ARE THE PERFECT LENGTH. JUST THREAD TOGETHER END TO END , 24mm EYE TO EYE IS WHAT YA NEED.

[joywrex]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Yeah a 25-30* bend right in the middle or even 60/40 forward will give you plenty of clearance...

WHen I first built my rig and discovered the possibility of the steering performance I started tinkering with the upper links...I have bent links fornt and rear on my rig...the sublinks were especially necessary when 25-30mm long M3 screws were used for the lower front links and shocks when I started inboarding the set up...never have broken a tab since.

Why did you bend the rear links? What did that do?

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by joywrex

Why did you bend the rear links? What did that do?

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks
Yeah a 25-30* bend right in the middle or even 60/40 forward will give you plenty of clearance...

[joywrex]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks
Yeah a 25-30* bend right in the middle or even 60/40 forward will give you plenty of clearance...

Oh I thought you meant the rear upper links.

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by joywrex

Oh I thought you meant the rear upper links.

If you look close at my build youll see that I actually have bent links front and rear for clearance.

[joywrex]

Does anyone know if the creeper balls would fit on these rod ends? and would the 3mm threaded rod work with it?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16139

[venomcrawlerdud]

any rod end will fit on the creeper links. one thing i use is the traxxas rod end kits, they have i think it was 18 rodends with all the rodend balls there for only i think like 8 bucks at my local hobby shop.