So my first 1/10 crawler is a custom venom creeper

[89lxmorepower]

I bought this venom from a friend for 300 with a great deal of work done to it. Lets start with the all metal custom built chasis he made with adjustable link points and bug body. The electronics consist of of novac rooster crawler spec esc with lipo cut off a handwound 35 turn tekin motor and a jrracing z9100t steering servo and a protek 3000 nihm speed pack. Came with a onyx 210 charger a set of proline chisel tires a spare set of losi comp tires and stock creeper tires and the novac 55 turn motor. Also got some other odds and ends to go with like spare axle shafts and some miselance parts. now onto the picture i have of it please tell me what ya all think.

[rmdesignworks]

Sounds like you got a decent deal considering the parts list...some body off pics of the entire set up front, rear, both sides and event the bottom will make it much easier to help you with any suggestions...

[89lxmorepower]

Really not going to much on it lower shock mounts are in the lower links not on the axle differ are jb welded already so they are full time locked has mad flex to it just need to redo the shocks oil right now. But I will grab some body of pics in a day or two probally Tuesday when I do the shock oil. Biggest thing I wanna do are losi aluminum comp shocks and maybe some hb rovers. But it's a beast a heavy beast at 7.6 pounds.

[rmdesignworks]

the bats are a big part of that beast weight....flex wont be affected by shock oil only the speed at which it flexes...spring rates and angles will do more for controlling the flex...maybe limit the shocks if needed.

[89lxmorepower]

No problems with flex does quite well the shocks in rear are at full droop and fronts are at tightest point to keep cage off steering servo which has a shield and actually battery's not much of the crawlers weight at all. There's no plastic chasis left it's been all done with with like 1/4 inch rod maybe a little smaller diameter I'll get full body off pics later today and up load em for ya to see

[NCR Motorsports]

nice first crawler!

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by 89lxmorepower

No problems with flex does quite well the shocks in rear are at full droop and fronts are at tightest point to keep cage off steering servo which has a shield and actually battery's not much of the crawlers weight at all. There's no plastic chasis left it's been all done with with like 1/4 inch rod maybe a little smaller diameter I'll get full body off pics later today and up load em for ya to see

Trust me...when it comes to the difference between a 3S 1350mah lipo and a 6cell nicad or nimh pack...there is a huge difference...the chassis being made from 1/4" steel rod is very heavy too...these two items will really affect performance and run times...personally Id rather have the stock chassis than a welded steel rod chassis for a crawler...now if its a scaler then yeah maybe but Id still rather have steel tube.

[santa cruz crawler]

cool creeper, sounds like a good deal !

[gundamalex]

Yes very good deal, I already spent 500 on it.

[89lxmorepower]

Ya the chasis tubbing is smaller than 1/4 inch and with the battery it weighs in at 7.6 pounds

[89lxmorepower]

I will get current pics up soon of body off

[89lxmorepower]

so here is some more shots of my venom [/

[89lxmorepower]

i got another set of axles coming with lockouts already installed so im going to swap rears and out board the upper links but anything else anyone thinks i should change

[rmdesignworks]

Saddle pack the battery and get it down on the front axle on either side of the servo...raise the servo higher and mount the tie rod to the tops of the knuckles

[89lxmorepower]

i dont know how to saddle pack the battery an dont see how i can move the tie rod to top of knuckle how would i raise the servo

[89lxmorepower]

also are you talking front or rear axle for tie rods and i cant really raise servo it hits from as it is now

[89lxmorepower]

So im trying decide best gearing for what i crawl on i need a little more torque from my novac 55 turn anmd rooster setup i had a 35 turn didnt like it traded for a set of axles i got coming so whats best way for mlore torque gear wise without loosing to much top end from my 55 turn

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by 89lxmorepower

So im trying decide best gearing for what i crawl on i need a little more torque from my novac 55 turn anmd rooster setup i had a 35 turn didnt like it traded for a set of axles i got coming so whats best way for mlore torque gear wise without loosing to much top end from my 55 turn

A lot of people including myself run a final drive gear ratio of 40.8:1 by installing a 19 tooth pinion...this is what I have said many times..its what I suggest in the Tips and Tricks thread...This discussion is actually going on in a couple of threads in the Venom Forum right now...all the same answers across the board.

[89lxmorepower]

ok so onto the battery saddle question and raising the servo what are the best options for that

[rmdesignworks]

If you dont want to actually raise the servo then flip the servo horn up and move the tie rod on top of the knuckles...then reconnect the drag link to the farthest knuckle from the servo horn center...the servo horn should sit at a bit of an angle toward the knuckle it is attached to to make up for opposing rotation of the servo horn and the knuckle...in other words the knuckle is horizontal and servo horn is vertical....

Use the stock servo plate and mark a piece of aluminum about 1.5" wide and around 5" long to make a new longer servo/battery plate...you need a space on the axle on both sides of the servo for the battery.

If you have decent soldering skills then I would cut the wrapping off of the nimh pack and open it up...the cells are attached with folded metal tabs that are spot welded to the ends...they are thin and easy to tear away from the cells...then once you have 6 separate cells arrange them in 3 cell packs...put two cells side by side both positive up then glue the third cell negative up..glue the three cells together...repeat for the other pack...then solder tabs of short pieces of wire between the cells in each 3 pack so that you end up having an un-soldered positive and an un-soldered negative...set the two packs on the axle and measure the distance between them...cut a piece of wire about 2 inches longer then your measurement. solder one end of that wire to the negative on one 3 pack and the positive on the other three pack...you should now have a 6 cell saddle pack with out leads...the left over positive and negative cell ends get the battery leads for the esc...

There are plenty of write ups on doing saddle packs from back in the day...such as it is...Google making saddle pack and you should find something pretty quick...if not let me know and Ill help you find a written tutorial with pics etc. Youtube might have a video or two as well.