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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Well, i bought a used and abused Venom Creeper off one of those auction sites. Poor thing was in such bad shape it could barely move its own weight. So full rebuild is in store, why not build a scaler ![]() Bought a SCX10 chassis and with little modification mounted the Creeper tranny inside the frame rails. Kept the original lower links mounted to the tranny, located and drilled holes to mount the upper links. ![]() Bolted on some Integy shocks ![]() Unsure about these driveline angles, adjustment may be required ![]() |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: May 2007 Location: Arnold
Posts: 814
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The drive line angle does look a little steep.you might also have to raise the upper links on the axle housing too.
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: El Centro
Posts: 146
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Try lengthening the upper links. Good looking rig! -Corrupt |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
| ![]() So raising the uppers on the axle changes the anti-squat, and widening reduces torque twist? Does lowering the uppers on the frame achieve the same goal? My uppers both f&r mount 3/8" lower than the stock Creeper frame.
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
| ![]() Thanx for the input. I have messed with lengthening the uppers and the pinion rolls up to a good angle, but the d/l angle at the tranny output doesn't change much if any. I'm thinking maybe I'm gonna have to lower the tranny a little.
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RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Lindsborg
Posts: 1,708
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food for thought, side plate and some spacers. lower the trans to just below the the frame rails..
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Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: May 2007 Location: Arnold
Posts: 814
| ![]() Having your upper links level or slightly going downward to the chassis is what helps with the torque twist.What I've found with all my TLTs and my venom is if you can get your upper links close to the same length as the lower links help with the flex steer, that the reason I run mine wide(more room to make them longer).Lowering the upper links on the chassis will work also ,as long as you don't get them so low that they get hung up on things.
Last edited by ratterd; 11-25-2013 at 04:00 PM. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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I tore the rear axle apart today, JB Welded the diff, replaced all the bearing, no wonder this thing was struggling to move, all the axle bearing were toasted and the outer pinion bearing had come apart. Anyway I decided to make some rear lockouts using 3/4" pvc. First I had to shave the knuckles down. ![]() Then I cut two pieces of pvc pipe at 1-5/16" and drilled one end using a 3/4" drill bit going 3/8" deep to accept the shaved knuckles ![]() ![]() Epoxy the knuckles into the pvc, locate the two opposing screw holes, drill and countersink ![]() |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,286
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Watching the build...I have an Exceed Maxstone 1/10 turned into a scaler with a carbon fiber custom chassis. Just finishing up going through it like yourself..waiting for electronics to finish it. The pinion angles on mine are pretty steep also but are pretty straight on both ends. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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While the lockouts are painted, I decided to shave some more off the axle housing, I had already shaved the angled shock mounts and now, following the ideas of Ratterd and others on this forum clearanced around the bottom of the diff ![]() ![]() ![]() I'll be honest, after I epoxied the knuckles in I realized that now there is no way to change the 10x15x4 inner knuckle bearing ...oops, learning experience. Can anyone tell me do the HR Lockouts use that big bearing? How do they retain the axle bearing at the end of the housing? ![]() |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Lindsborg
Posts: 1,708
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slight pressure and positive thoughts.......\ not terribly impressed with the HR fitment. |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Lindsborg
Posts: 1,708
| ![]() Quote: i really like the Idea you have here, and rather than gluing then in you would use 3 or 4 set screws so it is still serviceable. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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So I replaced all the bearings, cleaned and greased all the gears and assembled on the chassis again with 2.2 Mud Slingers and a Honcho body ![]() Installed a Hitec 7954sh servo for the steering duties ![]() Still haven't decided on what body I'm gonna run, I have made the decision to run 1.9 wheels, so they are in the near future. ![]() And also I am going to try my hand at bending and brazing a cage, just need to decide on a body, leaning towards the Proline 73 Bronco with the full top ![]() |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Vancouver
Posts: 68
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Yesterday I was at my LHS and picked up a Cherokee body so now I can get rockin on the cage, also got some Proline Super Swampers and ordered Junfac Carbon drivelines.
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Custom 2.2 Scaler Build | Jgraser1 | 2.2 Scale Rigs | 36 | 09-12-2012 08:46 PM |
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