RCCrawler Forums

lofty975 · 11-13-2005, 12:50 PM

Yup that was a good time! sorry I had to leave early, the guys that came with had to go. The pics turned out good. I am definatly going to work on my "ugly truck" this winter. a little wider and different link setup. I thought it performed pretty good for what it is. the only damage I had is a little bend in the chassis in the front. It held up pretty good though. I'm thinking about making a gear reduction for it and a better spot for the battery. who knows, maybe I will have another chassis ready by the next time we go. Anyway, it was a good time. We will do it again.

Mnster · 11-13-2005, 01:36 PM

Thanks for coming along again guys, I had a lot of fun.

Sorry guys about having to wait around to charge my batterys and stuff. I guess the power outlets on the CRV don't put out the right amount of voltage for proper charging so all of the packs false peaked. Thanks for helping me charge all 16 packs.

Next time it should be warm and sunny not cold and windy.

Sucks we ran out of day light and it started to rain. I wanted to crawl the east bluff.

I want to be able to climb up this hill next time I came so so close this time.

Alot of rebuilding/tuning is going to go on this winter.

I want to add another inch to my trucks wheelbase and try to get a even lower COG with more ground clearance.

Lofty975, Very nice looking rig, it's hard working with tube.

Cole83, Thanks for taking pics, your motors look like they helped fix the problems you had last time.

Halfj-7, Thanks for driving all that way to come, your recent mods looked like they helped with clearance.

Thumbman, I'll have to work with you on that stick chassis this winter. Your rig was suprisingly capable at Devils lake.

Soya, buy a Clod

Cole82 · 11-13-2005, 02:07 PM

Ya the motors helped a lot. All though I wasn't able to climb the 2 dificult spots that I was able to climb last time. I think it was a tire thing. They are a lot harder this trip and most of the edges are rounded off now.
I want a m2 compound in a bogger tread the voids in a moab are to shallow. IMO
Some of the shots aren't crisp because I had to slow the shutter speed don to get the colors to come out.

EDIT: I have a crazy idea for a chassis/suspension all in one combo. This one I'm not so sure it will work the best though. It might look like a wet noodle going down the trail. A hint "I hate shocks"

Soya · 11-13-2005, 02:36 PM

So apparently I'm supposed to get a clod or something....

thumbman · 11-13-2005, 06:24 PM

Well we looked over the truck to day, we bent the battery tray, broke two rims, bent the front steering link, and the servo horn. Not too bad for a day of fun.

Mnster, I will have to work with you this winter on the stick chassis, I NEED MORE GROUND CLEARANCE! I think the lenght of the chssis worked good.
I was vary impressed with the truck

, with some work I think it will do better the next time we go. I'm going to loose the clod wheels and tires, and go with somthing else.

Mnster · 11-13-2005, 11:53 PM

Yeah I already have my plan for a setup:
Start over
longer 17" wheelbase (Better climbing)
Bent links (Greater clearance)
full body no cage or maybe alum 1/2 cage (Less weight and better bias)
Weighted tires or axle weights of some kind in the front. (Better weight bias)
Go with a hollow back bone. (Less weight)
Front mounted electonics. (Better weight bias)

I'll build a new chassis but keep my current Clod running during construction. I have to try out the stick in the snow with my super wide custom snow tires.

Cole, with your tires the way they are glued in the center there is not much bite with no center void. Mine are bad enough they wear/claw on just the sides not the center. So the center of moab tires need more voids to perform a little better. Also with your new motors it gave you alot more wheel speed, I'd finess the power a back little bit more. I guess the rocks where colder which made the tires a little stiff and slip. My tires also did seem to dry out since the first trip. I've been spraying them with WD40 when the truck sits for long periods of time. Your new chassis idea sounds cool.

Thumbman, Sounds like alot of damage at least nothing left you stranded. Definitly go with the Moab tires or the new Moab xl's. Yeah the 18" wheelbase actually worked pretty good. I would guess about 75% of the stuff we do is on a uphill incline of some kind.

The only damage I have found on my truck is the rear servo's gearcase cluster gear pin hole is wollard out giving the servo alot of play.

Cole82 · 11-14-2005, 06:06 AM

The problem for me are the climbs around here we don't get climbs like that it's all bolders. So you need a more balanced truck. Then I go to the devil and I need a longer wheel base and and more weight forward. It' a double edged sword.

I have a way to do a stick style chassis. With adjustable wheel base by moving 2 screws. I don't think the wet noodle will be controllable but I might try it any ways, it's a long winter.

Going to try new tires also the swamp dawg tires that fit clod wheels. 6.75" tall same height as the moabs.http://www.imexrc.com/CLOD_NEW.htm

Weighting the axle instead of the tires is way better IMO. having weight move around is never good.

Mnster · 11-14-2005, 11:57 AM

Yeah I was thinking about hanging weights from the knuckles inside the big rims. I've seen some comp guys put the batterys in the wheels that gave me the idea.

Thats how my nearby terrain is around here, smaller sharp lower traction boulders the opposite of Devils lake.

Yeah this bias thing I'm unsure of. I like going down hills and boulders at home but I want to make the climbs at Devils lake a little easier. But making the truck lighter all together would help.

I've thought about the adjustable wheelbase but I don't think I would use it.

I've thought of ways to go link less on a stick clod, but I don't know if it would be strong enough.

Halfj-7 · 11-14-2005, 12:28 PM

Had a good time too except for no rear steer. Got ideas forming for this winter as well. 17" wb, lower GC, battery further foward, and maybe a tube frame. If anyone wants to freeze thier asses off, let me know. Maybe we can do a winter/snow run.

Cole82 · 11-14-2005, 04:16 PM

mnster what WB is this truck? Also what center ground clearance is your truck.

Cole

thumbman · 11-14-2005, 08:38 PM

Weights in the wheels worked OK on the smaller rocks in the park by my house. At Devils Lake, the weight in the wheels pulled the truck off the rocks. The weight on the axel may work better, and it is easier to change the weight if needed.

The truck at least is still works, a little ca on the rims and we're rolling again. I'll drive it till the wheels fall off. Then start over.

Mnster let me know when you have time so we can work on a new chassis, maybe I could come up some Idea's for your chassis.

Mnster · 11-14-2005, 10:43 PM

That truck in the pic is running a 17" WB and has 6" of belly clearance. After trying his truck the wheel base seems long but I really like the way it performs.

Mine has a 16" WB and has 5 3/4" belly clearance. But my belly is real narrow so most of the time I can send rocks down either side of the chassis. With the chassis being a tube there is not much drag on the rocks if it gets caught.

It's funny, my truck grows a inch every year. First I started with 13" then went to 14 3/4" then to 16" now I'm looking at going to 17".

I'm thinking about giving a 1/2" tube chassis a try, the wall on the tube would be 1/8 and the tube 6061 T6 in hardness. I wonder if it would bend? I've seen a few bent sticks here on the site before. Maybe I'll give Kevin a PM to see what size tube he uses.

Thumbman, I'm free every Sunday and every other Saturday. We can talk it out online alot. I need to get some more raw materials (tube and stuff) ordered so we can start building. My Brother and I are looking to crawl again soon out at Rock Cut.

Mnster · 11-15-2005, 12:44 PM

I guess after PM'ing Kevin all of his stick chassis are tube. I think he may even use a smaller diameter like 3/8. But yeah, I'm going with the 1/2 tube for more beef.

lofty975 · 11-15-2005, 03:32 PM

I'm taking one of my wheel axles into work tonight and see if one of our machinists can whip up a few for me. I'm thinking maybe an inch to each ide would be good. Stock, edge of tire to edge of tire is about 9 3\4". make it about 11 3\4" wide with the same 12" wb.

What kind of gear reductions are you guys using? As most of have noticed, I have alot of speed and not enough torque. I was thinking about making my own but it would probably be easier to buy one.

Cole82 · 11-15-2005, 04:07 PM

The clods have enough reduction without one just use a small pinion.
I would change the motor first on yours.
But the reduction unit is called a GD600.

Mnster · 11-15-2005, 07:20 PM

A lathe motor would fix your problem they spin alot slower and have more torque.

thumbman · 11-15-2005, 07:40 PM

Mnster Sundays would be good to work on the chassis, the wife works Saturday till 4pm. I watch my sprout, and work on my honey-do list when is at work. Let me know if I need to get anything for the chassis, I picked up a project box for the radio gear.

I plan to go crawling over Thanksgiving weekend. I have a friend that going to be in town, and has not seen the truck crawl. (I had it apart every time he's is in town)

Mnster · 11-15-2005, 08:32 PM

I'm off Friday and Sunday on thanksgiving weekend if you want to crawl.

I'll order some supplys tonight, tubes and rods and stuff. You could pick up some traxxas rod ends for the links or you could recycle the old ones you have.

lofty975 · 11-16-2005, 07:36 AM

Well, I guess we picked a good weekendto hit devils lake. we have about an inch of snow on the ground now and its pretty cold. I looked at that reduction unit yesterday and didnt think it would work for a stampede tranny but I guess I would have to cut it up a bit. That is going to raise my cg a little. with the wider axles, I will have room to attatch my batteries to them. I was thinking about leaving the battery I have where its at and adding the ones to the axles to extend the run time. not that that was an issue but it may be with a reduction kit. well I have enough time to figure it out. I dont plan on running it in the snow unless I decide to build a plow for it. hhhhmm thats a good idea. I hate wisconsin

Mnster · 11-16-2005, 09:18 AM

You shouldn't need a reduction unit the stampede tranny is geared low enough. I'm running a pede tranny in mine with a 12T pinion and the larger spur and its really slow, the same or slower then my Clod. You want to keep some wheel speed to get up steep loose climbs. I guess if you run the motor you have now you would need a reduction. But for the cost and the additional run time go with a lathe motor. Last week when we were at the hobby shop in madison they had a lathe motor in stock.

View Poll Results: Going to rain tomorrow
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11-13-2005, 02:07 PM	#83
Cole82 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids Posts: 2,028	Ya the motors helped a lot. All though I wasn't able to climb the 2 dificult spots that I was able to climb last time. I think it was a tire thing. They are a lot harder this trip and most of the edges are rounded off now. I want a m2 compound in a bogger tread the voids in a moab are to shallow. IMO Some of the shots aren't crisp because I had to slow the shutter speed don to get the colors to come out. EDIT: I have a crazy idea for a chassis/suspension all in one combo. This one I'm not so sure it will work the best though. It might look like a wet noodle going down the trail. A hint "I hate shocks" Last edited by Cole82; 11-13-2005 at 02:14 PM.

11-14-2005, 06:06 AM	#87
Cole82 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids Posts: 2,028	The problem for me are the climbs around here we don't get climbs like that it's all bolders. So you need a more balanced truck. Then I go to the devil and I need a longer wheel base and and more weight forward. It' a double edged sword. I have a way to do a stick style chassis. With adjustable wheel base by moving 2 screws. I don't think the wet noodle will be controllable but I might try it any ways, it's a long winter. Going to try new tires also the swamp dawg tires that fit clod wheels. 6.75" tall same height as the moabs.http://www.imexrc.com/CLOD_NEW.htm Weighting the axle instead of the tires is way better IMO. having weight move around is never good. Last edited by Cole82; 11-14-2005 at 06:19 AM.

11-14-2005, 04:16 PM	#90
Cole82 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids Posts: 2,028	mnster what WB is this truck? Also what center ground clearance is your truck. Cole Attached Images

11-13-2005, 12:50 PM	#81
lofty975 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: really close to devils lake Posts: 34	Yup that was a good time! sorry I had to leave early, the guys that came with had to go. The pics turned out good. I am definatly going to work on my "ugly truck" this winter. a little wider and different link setup. I thought it performed pretty good for what it is. the only damage I had is a little bend in the chassis in the front. It held up pretty good though. I'm thinking about making a gear reduction for it and a better spot for the battery. who knows, maybe I will have another chassis ready by the next time we go. Anyway, it was a good time. We will do it again.

11-13-2005, 01:36 PM	#82
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	Thanks for coming along again guys, I had a lot of fun. Sorry guys about having to wait around to charge my batterys and stuff. I guess the power outlets on the CRV don't put out the right amount of voltage for proper charging so all of the packs false peaked. Thanks for helping me charge all 16 packs. Next time it should be warm and sunny not cold and windy. Sucks we ran out of day light and it started to rain. I wanted to crawl the east bluff. I want to be able to climb up this hill next time I came so so close this time. Alot of rebuilding/tuning is going to go on this winter. I want to add another inch to my trucks wheelbase and try to get a even lower COG with more ground clearance. Lofty975, Very nice looking rig, it's hard working with tube. Cole83, Thanks for taking pics, your motors look like they helped fix the problems you had last time. Halfj-7, Thanks for driving all that way to come, your recent mods looked like they helped with clearance. Thumbman, I'll have to work with you on that stick chassis this winter. Your rig was suprisingly capable at Devils lake. Soya, buy a Clod

11-13-2005, 02:36 PM	#84
Soya Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: illinois Posts: 433	So apparently I'm supposed to get a clod or something....

11-13-2005, 06:24 PM	#85
thumbman Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Poplar Grove Posts: 196	Well we looked over the truck to day, we bent the battery tray, broke two rims, bent the front steering link, and the servo horn. Not too bad for a day of fun. Mnster, I will have to work with you this winter on the stick chassis, I NEED MORE GROUND CLEARANCE! I think the lenght of the chssis worked good. I was vary impressed with the truck , with some work I think it will do better the next time we go. I'm going to loose the clod wheels and tires, and go with somthing else.

11-13-2005, 11:53 PM	#86
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	Yeah I already have my plan for a setup: Start over longer 17" wheelbase (Better climbing) Bent links (Greater clearance) full body no cage or maybe alum 1/2 cage (Less weight and better bias) Weighted tires or axle weights of some kind in the front. (Better weight bias) Go with a hollow back bone. (Less weight) Front mounted electonics. (Better weight bias) I'll build a new chassis but keep my current Clod running during construction. I have to try out the stick in the snow with my super wide custom snow tires. Cole, with your tires the way they are glued in the center there is not much bite with no center void. Mine are bad enough they wear/claw on just the sides not the center. So the center of moab tires need more voids to perform a little better. Also with your new motors it gave you alot more wheel speed, I'd finess the power a back little bit more. I guess the rocks where colder which made the tires a little stiff and slip. My tires also did seem to dry out since the first trip. I've been spraying them with WD40 when the truck sits for long periods of time. Your new chassis idea sounds cool. Thumbman, Sounds like alot of damage at least nothing left you stranded. Definitly go with the Moab tires or the new Moab xl's. Yeah the 18" wheelbase actually worked pretty good. I would guess about 75% of the stuff we do is on a uphill incline of some kind. The only damage I have found on my truck is the rear servo's gearcase cluster gear pin hole is wollard out giving the servo alot of play.

11-14-2005, 11:57 AM	#88
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	Yeah I was thinking about hanging weights from the knuckles inside the big rims. I've seen some comp guys put the batterys in the wheels that gave me the idea. Thats how my nearby terrain is around here, smaller sharp lower traction boulders the opposite of Devils lake. Yeah this bias thing I'm unsure of. I like going down hills and boulders at home but I want to make the climbs at Devils lake a little easier. But making the truck lighter all together would help. I've thought about the adjustable wheelbase but I don't think I would use it. I've thought of ways to go link less on a stick clod, but I don't know if it would be strong enough.

11-14-2005, 12:28 PM	#89
Halfj-7 Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Decatur, IL Posts: 69	Had a good time too except for no rear steer. Got ideas forming for this winter as well. 17" wb, lower GC, battery further foward, and maybe a tube frame. If anyone wants to freeze thier asses off, let me know. Maybe we can do a winter/snow run.

11-14-2005, 08:38 PM	#91
thumbman Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Poplar Grove Posts: 196	Weights in the wheels worked OK on the smaller rocks in the park by my house. At Devils Lake, the weight in the wheels pulled the truck off the rocks. The weight on the axel may work better, and it is easier to change the weight if needed. The truck at least is still works, a little ca on the rims and we're rolling again. I'll drive it till the wheels fall off. Then start over. Mnster let me know when you have time so we can work on a new chassis, maybe I could come up some Idea's for your chassis.

11-14-2005, 10:43 PM	#92
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	That truck in the pic is running a 17" WB and has 6" of belly clearance. After trying his truck the wheel base seems long but I really like the way it performs. Mine has a 16" WB and has 5 3/4" belly clearance. But my belly is real narrow so most of the time I can send rocks down either side of the chassis. With the chassis being a tube there is not much drag on the rocks if it gets caught. It's funny, my truck grows a inch every year. First I started with 13" then went to 14 3/4" then to 16" now I'm looking at going to 17". I'm thinking about giving a 1/2" tube chassis a try, the wall on the tube would be 1/8 and the tube 6061 T6 in hardness. I wonder if it would bend? I've seen a few bent sticks here on the site before. Maybe I'll give Kevin a PM to see what size tube he uses. Thumbman, I'm free every Sunday and every other Saturday. We can talk it out online alot. I need to get some more raw materials (tube and stuff) ordered so we can start building. My Brother and I are looking to crawl again soon out at Rock Cut.

11-15-2005, 12:44 PM	#93
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	I guess after PM'ing Kevin all of his stick chassis are tube. I think he may even use a smaller diameter like 3/8. But yeah, I'm going with the 1/2 tube for more beef.

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11-15-2005, 03:32 PM	#94
lofty975 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: really close to devils lake Posts: 34	I'm taking one of my wheel axles into work tonight and see if one of our machinists can whip up a few for me. I'm thinking maybe an inch to each ide would be good. Stock, edge of tire to edge of tire is about 9 3\4". make it about 11 3\4" wide with the same 12" wb. What kind of gear reductions are you guys using? As most of have noticed, I have alot of speed and not enough torque. I was thinking about making my own but it would probably be easier to buy one.

11-15-2005, 04:07 PM	#95
Cole82 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids Posts: 2,028	The clods have enough reduction without one just use a small pinion. I would change the motor first on yours. But the reduction unit is called a GD600.

11-15-2005, 07:20 PM	#96
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	A lathe motor would fix your problem they spin alot slower and have more torque.

11-15-2005, 07:40 PM	#97
thumbman Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Poplar Grove Posts: 196	Mnster Sundays would be good to work on the chassis, the wife works Saturday till 4pm. I watch my sprout, and work on my honey-do list when is at work. Let me know if I need to get anything for the chassis, I picked up a project box for the radio gear. I plan to go crawling over Thanksgiving weekend. I have a friend that going to be in town, and has not seen the truck crawl. (I had it apart every time he's is in town)

11-15-2005, 08:32 PM	#98
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	I'm off Friday and Sunday on thanksgiving weekend if you want to crawl. I'll order some supplys tonight, tubes and rods and stuff. You could pick up some traxxas rod ends for the links or you could recycle the old ones you have.

11-16-2005, 07:36 AM	#99
lofty975 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: really close to devils lake Posts: 34	Well, I guess we picked a good weekendto hit devils lake. we have about an inch of snow on the ground now and its pretty cold. I looked at that reduction unit yesterday and didnt think it would work for a stampede tranny but I guess I would have to cut it up a bit. That is going to raise my cg a little. with the wider axles, I will have room to attatch my batteries to them. I was thinking about leaving the battery I have where its at and adding the ones to the axles to extend the run time. not that that was an issue but it may be with a reduction kit. well I have enough time to figure it out. I dont plan on running it in the snow unless I decide to build a plow for it. hhhhmm thats a good idea. I hate wisconsin

11-16-2005, 09:18 AM	#100
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	You shouldn't need a reduction unit the stampede tranny is geared low enough. I'm running a pede tranny in mine with a 12T pinion and the larger spur and its really slow, the same or slower then my Clod. You want to keep some wheel speed to get up steep loose climbs. I guess if you run the motor you have now you would need a reduction. But for the cost and the additional run time go with a lathe motor. Last week when we were at the hobby shop in madison they had a lathe motor in stock.

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