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Thread: XTM X-Crawler axle pin removal? How

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Old 10-24-2008, 11:49 PM   #1
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Default XTM X-Crawler axle pin removal? How

So I was gonna clock my XTM X-Crawler axles. How do you remove the pressed in pins on the axle. They are in there TIGHT....like ball link pliers don't stand a chance and my vice wants to bend the axle before the pin moves at all.

I can not get the tubes off without removing this pin. Anyone gotten that damn pin out yet.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:57 AM   #2
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I have not tried removing mine yet but have you tried heat warm that area up it should come out easier
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamic^Cipher View Post
So I was gonna clock my XTM X-Crawler axles. How do you remove the pressed in pins on the axle. They are in there TIGHT....like ball link pliers don't stand a chance and my vice wants to bend the axle before the pin moves at all.

I can not get the tubes off without removing this pin. Anyone gotten that damn pin out yet.
Snap a pic of it and a size comparison like a dime or something and maybe we can help better

Last edited by Bart bender; 10-25-2008 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 10-25-2008, 01:28 PM   #4
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Here is a pic I stole from Crawln coles that illustrates the pin in question
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:51 PM   #5
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Have you tried taking the it apart at the tranny?
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:05 PM   #6
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It is a solid axle held in place by c-clips. There is not a separate axle for each side...but 1 long axle that goes from stub to stub. when you take the gearbox case apart you can get about 2cm of play but not enough to access the screws for the axle tubes.
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Old 10-25-2008, 07:47 PM   #7
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This is another reason I don't like preassembled rigs. I think you are going to have to make some kind of pin press. Like a chain breaker that will hold around the bottom of the shaft and a screw to force the pin threw it. I definetly don't think you want to heat it. It would expand the shaft and make the pin come out easier, but it may take some of the hardening out of the shaft or ruin that roller bearing in the axle housing. Sorry I can't be much more help than that with out it being in my fat fingers.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:01 PM   #8
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Chainbreak.....what a great idea, I will be trying that as soon as I get home.
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:09 AM   #9
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Ummm...anyone know where I can get another drive shaft
146848 X628 XTM Drive Shaft - X-Crawler
Mine is the br0kenz

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Old 10-26-2008, 11:12 AM   #10
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Default axle pin removal how to with pics

I just got done clocking my axles and the pin removal wasn't to bad to take out. You will need a good beach vice, ball peen hammer{2lb} 3/32 drift punch, 4 mm 1/4 drive short or long socket, brass punch. See pic1.
Remove the 2 axle screw king pins and the steering knuckle. Be careful when pulling the steering knuckle out, there is 2 plastic washer's and 2 flanged bearings. See pic #2 Next you will need a extra set of hands or something to support the other end of the axle { I used my drill press table} See pic#3. Now set the axle steering hub forks over the top of the jaw on your vice and make sure that you place the flat part of the axle down on the vice { this is the side that your servo mounts are mounted} place the socket in the jaws and bring it up until it makes contact with the ball end of your axle and the pin is in the middle of the socket. See pic #3 again. Now take your brass punch and hammer and drive the pin down flush with the axle ball end {while hammering on the pin make sure the socket stays in contact with the axle ball end, once you get the pin flush with the ball use your 3/32 drift pin and drive the pin the rest of the way out, remove the c clip and your ready to remove the screws on the axle housing and pull apart. when you are ready to put the pin back in, push the pin in and use your vice to press the pin back in until it's flush with the ball and then reverse the removal procedure to install.

Hopefully this one help a few people out, if you have any questions send me a PM. Thanks Jim

PS maybe this could be a sticky at the top?
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Last edited by jl_907; 10-26-2008 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:13 PM   #11
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What happend break it?

losi ak, That's the way to git er done.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:23 PM   #12
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When pressing the pin out the end of the drive shaft cracked.
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Old 10-27-2008, 01:56 PM   #13
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Default Clocking axles

I know I am probably going to get slammed on this but... Do you gain that big of an advantage over your competition that it justifies the risk of breaking parts you can't get? I have a XTM on order and they tell me it may be months before they get one. I haven't even seen replacement parts yet. Wouldn't it be a good idea to check for replacements just incase you break what is being customized. I have done a bunch of custom work on my TLT but I check for replacements first.
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:19 PM   #14
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Well if you beat them hard enough in the rock they will break too, so either way. I run Kyosho and I always have to wait months to get parts for a truck that was built years ago.
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:29 PM   #15
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Default clocking

I understand things do break that's not the point. Drive it like ya stole it! My question or point was is the benefit of clocking an axle worth breaking parts before you even get to run it. If ya break an axle, replace it and tweak it then.
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:21 AM   #16
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Their has to be a better way of taking the axles apart then that.
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:31 AM   #17
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Just an update on the situation. I got a hold of XTM at the source, globalservices.globalhobby.com out of cali. They have informed me that the drive shafts should be back in stock in about 10 days. The reason for the delay is due to them changing the material they are made out of to something stronger.

So I wait 10 days for them to come in stock and order them from hobbypeople.net (the public retailer of global hobby). Not a big deal. 10 days $35 for a gearbox case and $10 for a drive shaft is a a whole lot cheaper then buying another $400 kit (which was option number two), or $500 for some stage 5 integy's (option 3). When I replace the screws with my own hardened steel ones, and use my loctite, and I get to assemble everything myself, I do not see these problems re-occuring.

The XTM people answered my questions quickly and accurately, good customer service if you ask me. Even with this minor annoyance the XTM kit is still well worth the money. I only posted my issues so that should other people have them aswell perhaps XTM would take notice and refine their processes. The fact that they are already coming out with harder driveshafts shows me that they do indeed listen to what people need and are extremely quick to address issues.

Why attempt to modify new parts....if I wanted to be like everyone else I would have built a stock axial. I prefer to build things that are unique. Hard to take pride in just following the instructions and building something that works exactly the same as the next guys. Much more satisfying to design and build you own truck.

Does clocking the axles make that much of a difference....maybe not if your running the stock kit....but its about a combination of custimization. I'm using my XTM chassis (narrowed) for a 2.2 berg with some custom links, and converting the XTM axles to a pimpcane setup and am clocking the axles to get the extra rise out of them. It also allows me to run BTA steering with my setup. These among the few other tricks I have in mind give me a signifgant performance increase in my opinion. When you can have a truck thats completely within the rules that people call a cheater truck cause they compare it to their stock kit and can see that all the small little differences make for a much more capable truck, thats good stuff right there.


True I was annoyed with the parts when they broke...but such is life, parts are not expensive, really the worst part is waiting for them to arrive. The fun is in the building, tweaking, improving. If you let your hobby piss you off, or don't play with your toy cause you think it might break, you're kindof taking away from the whole point of the hobby which is to have fun with your gear.

Last edited by Dynamic^Cipher; 10-28-2008 at 05:38 AM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:35 AM   #18
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Default points understood

I agree building and customizing is the fun part. I don't compete in major events just bragging right at a local course so I never considered the vast tweaks that can be made. Points take, understood, and agreed with. Also thanks for letting others know about the axle improvements. Now I don't mind waiting for my truck to be in stock.
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:17 AM   #19
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What are the benefits of clocking the axle? How do you clock it?
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:25 PM   #20
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The benefit of clocking the XTM axles specifically are

-less axle is exposed to hanging up
-you can run your steering on either side of your axle possibly reducing hangups

In order to achieve this you need to
-remove your steering knuckles
-press out the pin from the end of your drive shaft
-remove the C-clip from that side of the axle
-remove the screws from one side of your gear box
-separate your gear box
-remove the gears from your gear box (be careful not to lose the tiny metal spacers)
-remove the axle tube mounting screws
-(OPTIONAL) depending on the angle you want you can drill and countersink new mount holes
-rotate your axle tubes as per your preference
-re-assemble everything

This is a fairly advanced procedure, some thought will have to go into thinking about where to drill holes if you intend to use the original link mounts, and you will most like need to also make custom links and mounts.
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