X-Factor Crawler Project, UnderWay!!! *Update 11/14/04*

[JakeDaSnake]

Ok I decided that I wanted to biuld a tube frame crawler BUT I didn't know what kinda axles and tranny I was gonna use. After alittle research the X-Factor axles seemed to be the best choise by a long shot: there wider, stronger, lower geared, and easy to mount, compared to Jugg/TXT-1 axles. The only con about using them is the price, which I found out after doing some math isn't even a con!
I looked at the X-F in the pics and the specs of it and found I could use the, axles, shocks,tires and wheels (for now), radio, servo, driveshafts (maybe not sure yet) and the steering links, so that ment if I bought the X-F 2 then I would be getting the axles for around 100 bucks with all the stuff listed above that I would have to buy seperate if I could find just the axles. I can resell the motor, tranny and chassis on ebay so Im comin out pretty good.
Im gonna use an E-Maxx tranny with a Great Planes GD-600 gear reduction and a Permax 600 motor, so that would put my lowers possible final drive ratio at 272.25:1!!

E-Macxx tranny: 2.75:1
72 tooth spur and 9 tooth pinion: 8:1
GD-600 w/ 12 tooth pinion: 3.75:1
X-Factor axles: 3.3:1

Total Reduction = 272.25:1 BUT THIS IS TO LOW!!!

So I'll be using a 14 tooth pinion of the 72 spur to make it right around 175:1...

I made my Tube Chassis out of 5/32 and 3/16 music wire (steel bar stock) and brased it together with a brass brazing rod we had at workm there was really no SET design for the chassis so I was kinda a "design as you go" thing. Here are some pics of the chassis, its wieghts about 13 oz. without the mounts I have to make for the E-Maxx tranny, so that would prob. put it around a pound for total wieght.

Side View:
http://www.rcpics.net/img/42345

Front View:
http://www.rcpics.net/img/42346

Angle View:
http://www.rcpics.net/img/42348

I had to design some 4-links for this project so I made alittle drawing and Paint so yall can see the general Idea, its setup like C-Man 1500's

4-link Design:


http://www.rcpics.net/img/42448

The links are gonna be made from 4-40 allthread and Fiber Glass rods made for Helicopter pushrods, and Traxxas ballends.

This is about as far as I can go without the Axles and Im not gonna get those till Christmas cause Im in school (No Money, lol)

Let me know what yall think... Update at bottom of page...

Later
Jake

[CustomCrawler]

Looks good. Just wondering, how did you braze on the nuts? I've tried two already and it took me about 20 minutes each nut to clamp them on. I used a C clamp. Just wondering if you did something different and easier.

For links, go with at least 6-32 rod. 4-40 is too weak, and anything above 6-32 would work better. Some options are 6-32, 8-32, 10, 32, 4mm and 5mm.

[JakeDaSnake]

There not nut, its 3/16 inch stainless tubing I cut it in 6 inch segments and brazed it on in hole pieces then but them down to size... Im just gonna use screws and locknuts... thanks

Later
Jake

[extreme]

i'd probally do a little more brasing with some 1/8th brass rod, it would not only look better but add some strength, those 4 link mounts look a little week. maby a cross brace from the mounts to the chassis. but this is just my opinion

but other wise i really like the shape of things to come!

[SR5Dave]

Originally Posted by CustomCrawler

Looks good. Just wondering, how did you braze on the nuts? I've tried two already and it took me about 20 minutes each nut to clamp them on. I used a C clamp. Just wondering if you did something different and easier.

For links, go with at least 6-32 rod. 4-40 is too weak, and anything above 6-32 would work better. Some options are 6-32, 8-32, 10, 32, 4mm and 5mm.

Yeah, 4-40 is wayy too small. I use 8-32. Haven't bent one yet.

[JakeDaSnake]

The 4-40 threaded rod just holds the link together there's now way it can bend, the fiberglass rod will take all the hits... but yea I might still go to 6-32 if I can get some locknuts that will work...

- Extreme: yea they did look alittle week when I made them but before I cut the centers out of the rod I tryed my hardest to yank them off and there not gonna budge... the tuber isn't brass its steel brazed with brass...

Thanks for the coments keep um comin...

Later
Jake

[JakeDaSnake]

Ok I had time today to grind down the GD-600 ouput shaft to 1/8 inch to fit a regular pinion... I just stuck it in my drill and used my 6 inch grinder it was easy!

I also got around to making the tranny mounts out of some 1/2x1/8 inch steel flat stock from Lowes... I drilled the holes and then cut them into a slot with a dremel tool... easy also... Not havin those axles is drivin me nuts cause I cant work on this thing anymore, lol

Here are the pics...

E-Maxx Tranny Mounts:
http://www.rcpics.net/img/42709

GD-600:
http://www.rcpics.net/img/42708

Later
Jake

[RCMFMaxxMan]

how did you get that pinion on to the GD-600. I have one and either gonna bore the pinion or cut the shaft. I just want to know what way is easiest and/or better.

[jtothec]

these tube chassis that everyone is making look great but it seems that everyone is having a contest on how heavy they con make their chassis piano wire, that stuff is not lite. :?

[badtodabone]

piano wire? they don't use that. they use 3/16 brakeline

[JasonInAugusta]

Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan

how did you get that pinion on to the GD-600. I have one and either gonna bore the pinion or cut the shaft. I just want to know what way is easiest and/or better.

Originally Posted by JakeDaSnake

Ok I had time today to grind down the GD-600 ouput shaft to 1/8 inch to fit a regular pinion... I just stuck it in my drill and used my 6 inch grinder it was easy!

All ya gotta do is read.