X-factor super build.

[Jamus]

I guess I finally have enough parts to start a build thread. So far I have used X-axles, e-maxx tranny, and the newer LST claws. Here's a pic of the tires since everyone loves pics.

Just put in an order to tower for some things to refurbish the axles, like some shims, bearings, savage stubs and 14mm hex. Also getting maximizer beadlocks, CS80 1/4 scale servos, body, and some other stuff. The plan for electronics is mamba max, some large brushless, castle bec, and a modified TQ3. Not sure on batteries and gearring yet. Looking at around 16.5" wheelbase, TVP, droop setup with 1/8 bugy shocks. I'm sure I'm leaving out stuff but that's all I have for now. Will post pics as soon as parts come in. See anything catastrophically wrong with anything feel free to let me know. Before anyone says it, I know TF axles have better clearance but these I got at a great deal. Plus I plan to shave the bottoms like DirkDiggler did.

[Jamus]

I'm stuck on what motor to use. I see the crawler store has this BM17 which is supposedly powerful but has no specs to prove it. There is also the Holmes Scorpion 3020-14. Or there's the monster Hyperions that I've seen guys like Raptorman and Wheelchair running. I'm a gearhead at heart so of course I want the more power, haha. What would anyone suggest with a maxx tranny, revo shafts, and x-axles? Mamba max of course and probably 72T spur(steel). Also open to suggestions on battery power, no lithium because I don't want to add a new charger to the ever growing price tag on this beast. Thanks.

[Reflection]

If you get a big outrunner,you'll need good quality cells that can dump enough power to keep up with the motor. GP3300's have always worked good for my Hyperion 3025-8. I liked that motor best at 62:1 gearing and 10 cells. Good low speed control and even better wheelspeed. At that ratio,it would cog every once in a while but wasn't worth worrying about. I ran that motor at ratios as high as 52:1 with good results. I'm currently trying a new motor and like it so far. May end up running it at the Nats. Nothing wrong with my 3025-8,I love that motor,I'm just looking for different options.

['83 chevy]

You'll be happy with the LST's. I ran them on a few different trucks, and they have very good traction.

[Jamus]

I was originally thinking of the HH 3020-14 which has a kv of 944 and rated at 800 watts max. How does this compare to the 3025-8? 13T is the smallest pinion I've seen for 5mm shaft. With my other gearing that would give me 51:1 and 14T would be 47:1. I like the 10 cell plan, I could split it into 2 5-cell packs and run one on each side of the servo up front. Thanks for all the info.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Jamus

I was originally thinking of the HH 3020-14 which has a kv of 944 and rated at 800 watts max. How does this compare to the 3025-8? 13T is the smallest pinion I've seen for 5mm shaft. With my other gearing that would give me 51:1 and 14T would be 47:1. I like the 10 cell plan, I could split it into 2 5-cell packs and run one on each side of the servo up front. Thanks for all the info.

I've not run the 3020-14 yet but I'd like to give it a whirl. Should be a real nice powerplant. I'd say it'll be close to the 3025-8. I'd try and get my gearing up closer to 60:1,it'll help will with cogging and hard starts. Adding cells is a good way to get your wheelspeed back but the weight adds up fast. You might think about trying a 3 cell lipo later on.

[Jamus]

Ok, cool, I'll go with the 3020-14 then. That way I can one-stop shop for electronics. For 60:1 I'll need an 11T pinion for a 5mm shaft. I'm assuming they are made but where? Also, clod pinions would work since they are 32 pitch as well right?

[ThinkTank]

Originally Posted by raptorman57

If you get a big outrunner,you'll need good quality cells that can dump enough power to keep up with the motor. GP3300's have always worked good for my Hyperion 3025-8. I liked that motor best at 62:1 gearing and 10 cells. Good low speed control and even better wheelspeed. At that ratio,it would cog every once in a while but wasn't worth worrying about. I ran that motor at ratios as high as 52:1 with good results. I'm currently trying a new motor and like it so far. May end up running it at the Nats. Nothing wrong with my 3025-8,I love that motor,I'm just looking for different options.

RM57,Are you testing the Scorpion 3020-14 outunner?

Originally Posted by Jamus

Ok, cool, I'll go with the 3020-14 then. That way I can one-stop shop for electronics. For 60:1 I'll need an 11T pinion for a 5mm shaft. I'm assuming they are made but where? Also, clod pinions would work since they are 32 pitch as well right?

I found this, but the info is kinda vague..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEW96&P=7

[Jamus]

Well, got some more parts in from tower. Steel spur gear didn't fit but that's my only gripe. I got beadlocks, 1/4 scale servos, revo shafts and rodends, MT2 Silverado body, savage stub shafts and hexes, bearings and shims. Looks like my track width at the outside of the tires will be 16". That's not terribly wide is it? Also, can the maximizer wheels be dyed? Anyway, here's some pics.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Jamus

Ok, cool, I'll go with the 3020-14 then. That way I can one-stop shop for electronics. For 60:1 I'll need an 11T pinion for a 5mm shaft. I'm assuming they are made but where? Also, clod pinions would work since they are 32 pitch as well right?

I know there's 5mm pinions out there but can't remember how small they get. The beautiful thing about the motors John is carrying now is that the main shaft is removable. You can have John turn the shaft down so you can run regular pinions

Originally Posted by GT40

RM57,Are you testing the Scorpion 3020-14 outunner?

Nope. Would you like to know what motor I'm testing? Well,it's a bit longer than my 3025-8,it's got stronger magnets and it's got a black can. It's made by ......a good company and the part number is UM woodntulike2no. :-P:-P

As of right now,I'll run this motor at the Nats. I'm REALLY liking it.

[Jamus]

Originally Posted by raptorman57

I know there's 5mm pinions out there but can't remember how small they get. The beautiful thing about the motors John is carrying now is that the main shaft is removable. You can have John turn the shaft down so you can run regular pinions

That's great, I was just wondering about the possibility of turning the shaft down. Though in my mind it involved bolting the motor to a plate, running it, and a lot of sandpaper. So then I could run any 32 pitch pinion. I see ones meant for a clod go down to 6 tooth. I don't need near that much, but it's good to know there are options.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Jamus

That's great, I was just wondering about the possibility of turning the shaft down.

Just one more reason,on an already long list of why John is the man to deal with for all your electronics. It's hard to beat his customer service and prices.

[Jamus]

Yup, I'll be sporting some HH stickers I do believe, haha. Only thing keeping me from ordering now it availability of the castle BEC. I can build the chassis and suspension without electronics anyway.

[Jamus]

I got something done today. The steel spur gear I got didn't fit the slipper setup on this tranny. So before I bought more parts I tried a home-brew fix using a 1/2" fender washer. I'll have to wait till I have a pinion to try a motor in it to see if it's too out-of-round to work. Also tried dyeing the wheels, maximizers take the dye really well.

[Jamus]

Got a little more done this evening. Playing around with a torsion stick, just because it's so easy to make. Not sure if I'll stick with it or go to my original plan of 4-link with droop shocks. It sure does save weight though. I also shaved the axle housings and will add a thin layer of JB to the bottom when I get some. Didn't really gain clearance, but made a smoother contour for the rocks to slide by on. And of course, kitchen table posing.

[Jamus]

Well, I tried out putting JB on the bottom of the axles I shaved. Not sure if this is right. I'll sand them after it cures. Does it look like it will hold?

[Jamus]

Got a little bit of progress to share. Decided to take the easiest route possible and buy something premade for the chassis, cheap too. So I got some duratrax shock mounts. Also started on some knuckle extensions. The stock knuckle mounts the tierod too close to the diff housing, especially for the 3/8" solid rod I plan to use. So I made some simple aluminum pieces to extend the tierod mounting point. I'll mount the draglink to one of the original holes though to keep leverage. Anyway, here's the pics.

[NickRummy]

Looking good! Couldn't you have just bent the steering links to get some clearance?

Are you doing anything to beef up the axles? I just got a set of X axles and will be running them with jumbo kongs (mudder). I'm trying to figure out what people are doing to beef them up. It has a 23mm conversion on it now. I'm not sure I'll be sticking with that or not.

[Jamus]

It was my understanding that once shimmed properly, they are fairly bombproof. Maybe not for kongs though, haha. Turns out I will have to bend the steering links since the knuckle extension won't fit inside the maxx size wheels. I guess I've neglected this thread since my progress has been slow. Here's some recent pics with links and a mockup of one shock mount.

[NickRummy]

Ok on with the questions!

Are those stock knuckles you are running? They look just like the stock knuckles that came on my brothers XTM Mammoth ST. I'd love to convert back over to 17mm since I have a set of 17mm Maximizers sitting at home doing nothing.

I don't want to use the kongs really. I'd rather use the LST tires you are running. What rim size do those work on? Will they work on the maximizers? Are these the tires you are running?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5982