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link length.................

bob1961

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Mar 12, 2008
Messages
2,506
Location
Wayne county. PA
i'm in the design stage of a tube frame on a cheap 2-D cad program that i will be using a ax10 kit....i'm going with comp rules for a tube chassis of at least 8" long, 3.75" tall and 3" wide and a GC of 2.50" and i'll be using .144" solid rod, a few questions....

1. are upper and lower links that are equal better then longer lowers shorter uppers....

2. what would be a good length for the skid plate front to back....

3. what's a good width for the skid plate, i know a R2D trnny is 70mm wide i may use....i've seen ax10 skids at 55mm....

i'll post more questions as they slam me in the head.................bob

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yeah i know....i thought at least 1 or 2 replies by now....that link brings me to the tool forum, but no thread concerning my questions :?: ...............bob

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Try to keep your links the same length so they swing in the same arc. If not the pinion angle will change as the suspension cycles and you'll get some wicked axle steer if the difference is too drastic.
 
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thx, thats what i was thinking myself....but didn't want to say so to where people would more or less just agree with me....but i notice a lot of rig builds where the upper links are shorter then the bottom links and they seem to crawl good.............bob

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my skid on my ax-10 blackjack is about 60mm wide and 76mm long.
just to get you in a nice ballpark
as far as links go thats just gonna depend where your holes on the chassis are , equal is better and try to keep them parallel while making your chassis but leave room to move at least your uppers up or down on the chassis so you can mess with anti-squat and stuff
 
here's what i have drawn so far in that 2D cad program....the size of the upper and lower links are under the picture....as you can see the lengths are not that different from each other

tuberframe.jpg


i have two mounts for the links and can add more if needed....the grid lines are 1" X 1" and as of now i have some room to adjust the 3" long skid plate....plus the way i was thinking of mounting the links are the lower links would be on the front of the axle housing and the uppers on top................bob

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I'd recommend something a little more like this...

tuberframe.jpg



"plus the way i was thinking of mounting the links are the lower links would be on the front of the axle housing and the uppers on top................bob"

That's the way you do it 99% of the time.
 
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Lots of front upper link chassis holes are a good idea. Lots of room for messing around trying to find the perfect combination of steering angle at rest and at breakover.
 
ok a new design following your tips....and the top view to bring it together better....i made the skid plate at 3" long at this time to play with before final spec is reached....i color coded each rod to show the piece and how long it will be....

bobstuber03.jpg


bobstuber02.jpg


i dropped the nose down and added an extra shock mount hole on the front and back with out raising my GC much at all from 2.5", thx guys "thumbsup" .................bob

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I still think the minimal link holes and their placement are going to be the down fall. You have the lower links above the skid. Which wouldn't be a huge deal in the rear, but in the front it's going to act like a wall under your links. You're going to be sliding and BAM you're stopped.
 
if you look at the top view picture you'll see the cut outs for triangling the lower links in the skid plate....i know not to put the lower links higher then the skid plate....the 3 holes for the upper links are in the same place as the 5 holes posted earlier....the placement of the links holes aren't lined up cause of the cheap 2D cad program i have but will be drilled right when i do them....i can only move them in a square pixel pattern of about 4 pixel only....the program lets me move lines instead of erasing them and re drawing them....i can click on any line and bring up end points, then click and drag the whole line from the middle of it....or click and drag an end point and just move that end point and the other end point stays put, then i have a new line from end point to end point....what do ya want from a free CD of the cad program i have, works for what i need it to do "thumbsup" .....................bob

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Ooooooh. Ok, I thought that was a driveshaft cutout. One thing to consider is the clearance between the tires at full flex and the front of the frame. I had to cut the front of one of my buggies off because the tubes were too wide.
 
Ooooooh. Ok, I thought that was a driveshaft cutout. One thing to consider is the clearance between the tires at full flex and the front of the frame. I had to cut the front of one of my buggies off because the tubes were too wide.

when i get printer ink i'll printout my plans so i can use them for a template to bend the rod since the one i printed came out to exact size, all 4 inks are out now....then i'll add the links and diffs to the drawings
so that they will be in place where they'll go some time this weekend to show where all will go and clearences....right now i'm just working on an 8.5 x 11" paper format.................bob

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here's the link layout with a 12.5" WB and 10" wide tires....

linklayout.jpg


i'm playing with the link layout as to there final mounting points....i may move the lowers out a little more in the skid plate....thats what i like bout this program i can move stuff before i even make anything "thumbsup" ............bob

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