Need torque twist help...pics included...

[Tanis]

I know this thread is focused on the rear of the truck, but I haven't seen any comments on the way the front links are placed, so should I assume they are in a reasonably good position?

I'd lower you front uppers down as well, and lengthen them too.

 

[Tanis]

Try making the lower driver side link a touch longer then the passenger side.
work in my case.

Why?

 

[joesbruiser]

This is the first time I have seen anyone talk about making one link longer than the other.

let me start by saying this should actually be done on the upper rather than the lower.

Buy doing this you are preloading the suspension.It is a common thing with drag racing.I have done it and there has been several article's on it.

Car Craft magazine built a little mustang a few years back.The car was lifting the driver side tire on launch and uncontrollable down track.

They put the car on 4-wheel scales and with a half of a turn on one rear upper control arm they shifted 60lbs from one corner to another.The car then stopped lifting the driver side tire and was driveable .

I was playing with this on my berg even.I could make it go from sitting neautral on a climb to lifting wich ever front tire I wanted it to do.

So this would be a way to help manage tourque twist.

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

This is the first time I have seen anyone talk about making one link longer than the other.

I was playing with this on my berg even.I could make it go from sitting neautral on a climb to lifting wich ever front tire I wanted it to do.

So this would be a way to help manage tourque twist.

That does kind of make sense. By making an upper longer, you're forcing the chassis to put pressure on the other side and opposite end of the car.

I also think I figured out a really crude but simple way to see how your suspension reacts to the axle trying to twist without the truck leaving the bench...

With all 4 wheels down, grab ahold of the axle right at the diff, and try to twist it the opposite direction of the wheels if it were rolling. I found I could make mine squat easily with the upper links high in the chassis, and it got progressivly harder to do the lower I mounted them. I would imagine that once I get the chassis redrilled so that they will go even lower, it'll be nearly impossible to make it move by hand.

 

[Tanis]

This is the first time I have seen anyone talk about making one link longer than the other.

let me start by saying this should actually be done on the upper rather than the lower.

Buy doing this you are preloading the suspension.It is a common thing with drag racing.I have done it and there has been several article's on it.

Car Craft magazine built a little mustang a few years back.The car was lifting the driver side tire on launch and uncontrollable down track.

They put the car on 4-wheel scales and with a half of a turn on one rear upper control arm they shifted 60lbs from one corner to another.The car then stopped lifting the driver side tire and was driveable .

I was playing with this on my berg even.I could make it go from sitting neautral on a climb to lifting wich ever front tire I wanted it to do.

So this would be a way to help manage tourque twist.

Good enough, learn something everyday8)

 

[joesbruiser]

Good enough, learn something everyday8)

Glad I could help.
There is so much out there I do not think we have even scratched the surface."thumbsup"

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

Update: Got the shocks mounted to the axle. Went with shock extensions rather than adding to the chassis. Didn't change the angle too much so it should be fine. Took it for a test drive and it appeared to be slightly better.

Dropped and lenthened the uppers in the rear. Gained a bit of articulation, and the diff pretty much stays pointed @ the trans, so thats good. Another test drive showed another slight improvement.

Haven't figured out how to drop the front uppers yet. The battery gets strapped down on top of them, and the tray is nearly laying on the driveshaft as it is. May have to come up with some bent uppers or something.

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

Alrighty. Whipped up some bent uppers for the front so that the mount is lower but the battery tray stays up where its supposed to.

Also built a new skid and moved the links closer together.

Hauled it out to the park, and before I lost a shock bolt and destroyed another axle shaft (this makes 3 in 5 days...:-() I noticed quite an improvement. The twist isn't all gone, but its much better than it was. Seems to climb a bit better as well as I was scaling things today that I wasn't even trying to attempting last week.

I'd like to call this mission accomplished! Thanks to all and I'll see if I can get some pics up tonight of the engineering results!


"thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

New skid...

Old skid got recycled as a shelf for my esc and rx...

Bent upper front links...

Shock extensions...

New shock angle...

And finally my answer to stop twisting those weak ass Traxxas shafts into candycanes...

Once again, thanks to all! "thumbsup"

 

[Tanis]

If you start snapping yokes now, you can bump up to Revo shafts"thumbsup"

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

If you start snapping yokes now, you can bump up to Revo shafts"thumbsup"

Yokes, shafts, you name it, I've snapped it. The only reason I took to the time to fab up an aluminum male shaft is that I've totally depleated my TMaxx parts bin.

My driveshafts are Revo axles, and I've got another pair with carriers waiting to go in the front, but I need to whip up some new axle ends to carry the wider spacing of the carriers.

I'll be stopping by Lowes tommorow a.m. to get them. ;-)

 

[Tanis]

Ah yes, I forgot the stubs were different.

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

Ah yes, I forgot the stubs were different.

True, but not what I was refering to. The pivot balls are spaced farther apart on the Revo carriers, and when I build the ends of the axle tubes I trimmed off enough that the taller Revo carriers won't fit.

 

[Tanis]

That's what I meant:ror:"thumbsup"

 

[Jneves]

This is the first time I have seen anyone talk about making one link longer than the other.

let me start by saying this should actually be done on the upper rather than the lower.

Buy doing this you are preloading the suspension.It is a common thing with drag racing.I have done it and there has been several article's on it.

Car Craft magazine built a little mustang a few years back.The car was lifting the driver side tire on launch and uncontrollable down track.

They put the car on 4-wheel scales and with a half of a turn on one rear upper control arm they shifted 60lbs from one corner to another.The car then stopped lifting the driver side tire and was driveable .

I was playing with this on my berg even.I could make it go from sitting neautral on a climb to lifting wich ever front tire I wanted it to do.

So this would be a way to help manage tourque twist.

Preloading the links may or may not of been what he was talking about. What he also may have done is lengthened the lower left link with apropriatly relocated mounting holes, which would change the instant center on that side of the axle. The result would be the passanger side would have more anti squat then the drivers side which would counter act the torque twist.

 

[Kryton]

You need to have your upper and lower links paralelle to each other and that should take out a bunch of the torque twist. You will still have some because its a shafty."thumbsup"

 

[Tanis]

You need to have your upper and lower links paralelle to each other and that should take out a bunch of the torque twist. You will still have some because its a shafty."thumbsup"

Really?;-)

 

[BILLYGOAT]

listen to tanis and joebruiser . they have given you great advice."thumbsup"