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First Nitro RC vehicle!! X factor

XFactorNewGuy

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Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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I've been looking for a nitro rc truck for me and my little buddy to get into and found a truck I instantly fell in love with. I picked up a X factor 2 that has alittle front servo problems for 100 bucks! I love the thing. I just don't know much about these nitro rc trucks.

Where do you find hop ups for these things or parts for that matter? I'd like to put some aluminum parts on it but can't find any.

Also, where do you guys find these great looking bodies for the trucks?

What is a good cheap replacement steering servo for these?

I'll post a pic later but wanted to introduce myself and say I'm ready to learn!!
 
Post some picture of of what 100 bucks got you. You should take it apart and keep the axles."thumbsup" Just kidding. Lets see some pictures.
 
I've been looking for a nitro rc truck for me and my little buddy to get into and found a truck I instantly fell in love with. I picked up a X factor 2 that has alittle front servo problems for 100 bucks! I love the thing. I just don't know much about these nitro rc trucks.

Where do you find hop ups for these things or parts for that matter? I'd like to put some aluminum parts on it but can't find any.

Also, where do you guys find these great looking bodies for the trucks?

What is a good cheap replacement steering servo for these?

I'll post a pic later but wanted to introduce myself and say I'm ready to learn!!
Welcome to RCC!

You'll learn alot around here, there are lots of people who run nitro's on here unfortunately not as crawlers, all the Xfactors you'll see in this section will be electric. Nitro's are just too fast and unpredictable for crawling.

As far as help with the servo, whats your budget, a good strong servo isn't going to be cheap. Most likey more then you paid for the the truck, you can do low buck and get something like a Hitec 645 and it will work but if you are going to be going slow it won't have the power to turn the wheels.


Good luck, enjoy the truck"thumbsup"
 
Complete unmolested X-factors are getting scarce. That is not to say VALUABLE... just scarce. I've got one, still mostly unmolested for now, as well as a "bazturdized" electric version.

There are few hop up parts left for it. Everyone who has 'em is hanging onto them 'cause these things stopped being made a few years ago. www.xtm-dealer.com is my favourite place to shop for my XTMs, and John barely lists anything for the X-factor anymore. You may be able to get some bits from there or from www.hobbypeople.net, but they're getting rare.

If you can get or build a wheelie bar, do it. These things are hard on the rear muffler!

As for bodies, I'm not sure what fits. I've got an old school hardbodyz cage for mine and have welded on body posts for it, and have a Pro-Line F650 on it. Anything that fits the LST2 or MGT should fit the X-F, but don't bet the farm on that: I said "should".

One thing that I'm contemplating doing on mine is flipping the diffs to spin the wheels backwards and moving the steering servo to the "rear" axle, so that the truck becomes a front engine instead of rear engine. Then using a buggy pipe should be pretty easy and with the improved weight distribution it should handle a little better. I can also get rid of the recoil at that point and use my spare LST2 spin start mechanism.

The axles are pretty weak for a high speed vehicle, and they tend to break (especially in the cold). You can get rid of the upper link mounts and mount the uppers on the axle, which besides eliminating one weak point has the added benefit of more axle/chassis clearance.

I also switched my wheels for 17mm hex drives and installed some of my spare Mammoth ST hubs. You could go right to the Pro-Line 23mm hubs if you like, with the proper adapters. Even LST2 hubs will fit if you want to go that way. I'm using some XTM MMT wheels/tires I got off e-Bay - they're a bit narrow due to the high offset of the MMT wheel, but they look just fine and hold on MUCH better than the stock junk.

I don't get much drive time with my X-F - it's a bit tough to drive because it's so bouncy & top heavy, and being that it's pretty fragile and parts are getting tough to get, I kind of take it easy. Still, it's such a goofy mother that I had to have one.
 
Thanks for the info guys I'm sure I'm going to have more questions in the future.. I have talked to John at XTM Dealer and he is very helpful.. I love the looks of this truck and can not wait to drive it!! I still am figuring out the front servo problem.. I have the nitro tank and the servo stuff all loose so excuse the mess on the frame!

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I'm excited to see this thing run. My servo I need is coming in the mail. How rich do these things run during break in? I reset my car to factory settings and was wondering how much I should lean it out before i go play
 
usually when i was breaking a motor in i made a mess on the ground cuz of extra oil coming out the exhaust but don't lean it out to quick either make sure you do proper break in with the 24.7 you will notice as u start putting around the sound will change and you will start to get more power once it's completely broken in then u can start leaning it out lil by lil but make sure you dont over heat the motor or you fry the piston and sleeve. have fun "thumbsup"
 
How non-broken-in is it? It looks to be used (scratches on cooling head) so I'd assume it's pretty much ready to go? Take out the glow plug and turn over the engine - if it only sticks a little bit near the top end, run it! If it's real tight at the top, you may need a bit more time. Run it so that it's smoky but it doesn't have to be sloppy rich at this point. Race lean after probably a full gallon of regular use at regular "bashing" mixtures.

These 24.7s break in easily enough. My Mammoth was running hard at 1 litre, really hard at half a gallon. Mine ALWAYS runs hot, though, unless I run it really rich and slow. For the X-F, grab yourself a bigger cooling head from any other Golden Lion engine (later XTM, SH, Mach, LRP... I've even got a Nova head for an HPI 5.9 on mine, I believe. It may be a 4.6, but for sure it's an HPI.) You won't have a ton of airflow over the engine and with the tiny head, you'll be chasing the heat forever.
 
thanks for the good info and kind words guys..

I'm sure its broken in and ready to go. He had the high speed set at 2.5 and break in calls for 3 so I figure in that range. I will def. check into a cool head!
 
I picked up a X factor 2 that has alittle front servo problems for 100 bucks! I love the thing.

I bought an unmolested X Factor from a buddy for $150...he threw in another 1/8 scale buggy and a TLT that was in pieces. Mine needs a new clutch, but it runs great. I do not have a body on mine, but would love to find one.

Thanks,
OldMoparsRule!
 
WTH?!?!? These are freaking cool? I did not know that there were NITRO CRAWLERS around. I knew someone made one out of custom parts, but this takes the cake.
 
Thanks for the info guys I'm sure I'm going to have more questions in the future.. I have talked to John at XTM Dealer and he is very helpful.. I love the looks of this truck and can not wait to drive it!! I still am figuring out the front servo problem.. I have the nitro tank and the servo stuff all loose so excuse the mess on the frame!

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100_0916.jpg


100_0915.jpg
it has almost revo sospention with how the the shocks are onboard the truck
 
It looks pretty sweet, what motor is in it. You will need to figure out how to get it geared way low and get a very good clutch for it. Oh and a big cooling head or run a small fan in there. I tried to take my revo 3.3 rock crawling a few times before i got my losi and i burnt up so many clutches and motor was extremely hot, like boil water hot, lol drop of water evaporated instantly. Anyways good luck looks like it could be a good nitro crawler. oops its called engine, sorry used to saying motor all the time since 've been running electric
 
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