I'll try. Say you are trying to bump the rear up a ledge with a few inches of run-up. When there was little to no weight in the chassis and with the shocks as soft as you can go the rear end would bounce off instead of absorbing the hit. It was like the suspension wanted to compress but there was nothing pushing back on it so it would just buck and hop. Moving some weight into the chassis and keeping the shocks soft help to absorb the ledge making the truck much more predictable. Thats about as deep as I can go, I normally tune on a better/worse scale:lmao:
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A thread about Weight
- Thread starter Erik D_lux
- Start date
I'll try. Say you are trying to bump the rear up a ledge with a few inches of run-up. When there was little to no weight in the chassis and with the shocks as soft as you can go the rear end would bounce off instead of absorbing the hit. It was like the suspension wanted to compress but there was nothing pushing back on it so it would just buck and hop. Moving some weight into the chassis and keeping the shocks soft help to absorb the ledge making the truck much more predictable. Thats about as deep as I can go, I normally tune on a better/worse scale:lmao:
LOL.Erik wheels in a flower garden. Pansy.
Do I really need to show a video of me peeling out on a flower to redeem myself?
Nothing like coming home and your car smells like flowers.
Ah, perfect. This was/is happening to me. I softened up my shocks a TON today and it really helped. There is one climb I cant figure out though and it does exactly what youre talking about. The problem is that I could only make it 1/100 times before and now I cant make it at all so its hard to judge with such a tough obstacle. Every other obstacle feels much better though so i dont know.
Tydl
RCC Addict
Erik wheels in a flower garden. Pansy.
I'd be stoked to have that at or near my house, I live in Florida, we are stoked to find anything.
D'lux, is that in utah? Isn't it a little green?
tapped-out
I wanna be Dave
Really new to the lcc. I only ran my rig maybe 5hr. so after running my rig i thought maybe I'll loose some weight. removed Rear wheel weight 4oz, removed something like 4.5oz from front wheels.
Here's my running weight this is stock wheels/tires ace mem. foam in front stock foam in rear. running micro servo for dig. novak 2s goat 2s battery.
TOTAL rig RTR is 4lb 13.5 oz or 4.85
FRONT weight 2lb 13.5oz or 2.85
REAR weight 2lb
I weighed it @ UPS so I hope I weighed it right.
So any Input on this set up I would love to hear. Thanks "thumbsup"
Here's my running weight this is stock wheels/tires ace mem. foam in front stock foam in rear. running micro servo for dig. novak 2s goat 2s battery.
TOTAL rig RTR is 4lb 13.5 oz or 4.85
FRONT weight 2lb 13.5oz or 2.85
REAR weight 2lb
I weighed it @ UPS so I hope I weighed it right.
So any Input on this set up I would love to hear. Thanks "thumbsup"
Del Monte
Y-Town Crawlers
at that point, spring/oil/piston tuning is key. You can't run the same stuff with 4lb of sprung weight as you can with 2lb of sprung weight
woodysfj40
Newbie
42,000 registered forum members means 42,000 different driving styles...best is to read and research, then make adjustments based on what you've learned.
The best learning is at a comp, even as a spectator.
Very true. I think part of the issue was at the time white springs were the softest you could get and it was a Berg with maybe a 1lb of sprung weight.
What is this? You make one post and youre a pansy that lives in some crappy dried up place?
There is plenty of green stuff here. Its no Pacific Northwest but its really nice. Most have green lawns.
Tydl
RCC Addict
What is this? You make one post and youre a pansy that lives in some crappy dried up place?
There is plenty of green stuff here. Its no Pacific Northwest but its really nice. Most have green lawns.
I think its cool that I learned something today. I love your practice spot, if you thought I was bashing,
I like 25wt-35wt. My thinking at the moment is that I like a fast acting suspension.
Ill order those when I order the worm pinions "thumbsup"
For everyone making battery trays. Put a ear on each side so it hits the links and it will keep the tray off the drive shaft. This was my first try. The rest I made are longer with the ears further back.
Attachments
2manytickets
Pebble Pounder
what did you use to mount the tray zip ties? i dont see them in the pic
Stock driveshafts 72g
Junfac driveshafts 84g
MIP driveshafts 126g
Junfac driveshafts 84g
MIP driveshafts 126g
Ballistic 18.5t motor 186g
35t brushed motor 177g
35t brushed motor 177g
You missed a few pages of chat about this mod, the battery plate is mounted on to the front axle, below the servo tray, using the same hardware. If you look closer you will see the tray runs under the servo tray in the picture.;-)
Note: He then says to make a longer one. This was his first tray, and then realized he had more room to go longer.
Note: The "ears" on the new battery tray, as he notes this will keep the tray from hitting you drive shaft. He notes to make the ears further back on the longer battery tray.
Can we extend the wheel base?
On my MRC I extended my links to add a total of 1/2 an inch in wheel base length. This made a nice difference.
On the LCC being a bigger rig I want to add 1 inch of wheel base. .5+ in the rear and .5 - in the front. Shifting the weight some to the front axle and giving a longer foot print.
Has anyone done this or have any feedback. Like I said on my MRC it was a great mod.
"thumbsup"
On my MRC I extended my links to add a total of 1/2 an inch in wheel base length. This made a nice difference.
On the LCC being a bigger rig I want to add 1 inch of wheel base. .5+ in the rear and .5 - in the front. Shifting the weight some to the front axle and giving a longer foot print.
Has anyone done this or have any feedback. Like I said on my MRC it was a great mod.
"thumbsup"
scatterbrains
RCC Addict
Prob with adding an inch, makes it out of spec for WB requirements.
2manytickets
Pebble Pounder
I see it now thanks for the heads up MRCking. Now i can do this mod"thumbsup"
