ADDICT
Rock Crawler
exactly! lol :ror: Can you imagine messing with 36 diff features on your tx in the middle of a course? You really gotta know whole rig and how the drive the damn thing before adding another weapon to your arsenal. "thumbsup"
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Cutting brakes?
- Thread starter SteerAndStuff
- Start date
exactly! lol :ror: Can you imagine messing with 36 diff features on your tx in the middle of a course? You really gotta know whole rig and how the drive the damn thing before adding another weapon to your arsenal. "thumbsup"
EvilTwin v2
I wanna be Dave
That's all well and good in theory. However, on the course, you're not going to be able to "hold" a tire. Due to the high front weight bias that we run on our comp rigs in order to climb effectively, I just don't see this being the case. It may actually be the opposite that in many situations, you may not have enough traction at the rear in order to get the single wheel to act as a pivot without dragging it around too much.
It will be a useful tool in other situations, but it's not going to make a huge difference in your turn radius as your "test" suggests.
You're forgetting that most comp rigs have more then enough torque to get the front tires spinning with no issues. If the tires are spinning, the one tire in the back will be more then enough to hold it, especially if you dial out a bit of rear esc to help provide some rear bit.
wrightcs77
RCC Addict
FALSE. Rigs do not have enough grip for one rear tire to hold the rig to pivot around that tire. Tested many times over with the same results.
Try this test. Take a MOA, do a dig on a consistent surface and measure your turning radius. Take the back axle apart, take out one drive shaft (or take out the drive pin from the hub), lock that tire (if you have holes in the rims you can use a rod thru the hole in the rim to lock up against a link or axle tube) and try the same test. The turning radius will be larger.
wrightcs77
RCC Addict
Sorry, don't mean to come across mean, but try the tests and see how it comes out. I tried the following:
front tires powered, one rear locked and the other freewheel
front tires powered, one rear locked and the other with power
Neither had as tight a turning radius as both rear locked.
I tried on carpet, cement, tar and rocks. If the surface is slick, it drags the rear end around. If the traction is high, the front pulls the back around.
front tires powered, one rear locked and the other freewheel
front tires powered, one rear locked and the other with power
Neither had as tight a turning radius as both rear locked.
I tried on carpet, cement, tar and rocks. If the surface is slick, it drags the rear end around. If the traction is high, the front pulls the back around.
dpdsurf
I wanna be Dave
Just as it's painful to watch dig being overused when the line can easily be walked in 4WD.
I can't wait to try the cutting break. "thumbsup"
meffie
RCC Addict
There's valid arguements on both sides of the field. Bottom line is it's really to early to speculate either way. We know the effects on a 1:1 rig, I run cutting brakes on mine, but how it will react in the real world on a 4-5lb rig is yet to be determined.
That being said I still can't wait
That being said I still can't wait
SwampDawg
RCC Addict
it seems to mee all it did was drag a tire?
unless more weight on the rear axle is applied to make this brake work properly...ill stick with Dig;-)
unless more weight on the rear axle is applied to make this brake work properly...ill stick with Dig;-)
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
That is why tire placement is one of the big keys to being a good driver. Even using dig, tire placement can make you or break you. "thumbsup"
darkmanx
Rock Crawler
I think that the cutting brake will be useful in other situations and not just for turning in a tight radius. Point being that if you have tire that is in a crack there are times when you don't want it to spin because it sucks you into the crack more. This is where is see the advantage to cutting brakes as this allows you to reposition yourself to get out of the crack. Just my .02
meffie
RCC Addict
Exactly. The more implied use of the brake will be on transitions and situations that you described rather than flat ground turning ability.
On my 1:1 I rarely every use it just to turn sharper. Then again I have an arb in front "thumbsup"
Dr.Frank
Rock Crawler
Hello,
even if it work, i would be afraid that it will break. If you have a look inside
the rear housing i'm really scared about puting this tiny mechanic in. It would
be better if Axial solves the bearing/gear problem at first. Just my 2 Cents.
Greetings Frank
even if it work, i would be afraid that it will break. If you have a look inside
the rear housing i'm really scared about puting this tiny mechanic in. It would
be better if Axial solves the bearing/gear problem at first. Just my 2 Cents.
Greetings Frank
Jeepkid
I wanna be Dave
Agreed.
meffie
RCC Addict
Wait, what, theres bearing and gear problems?!?!?!
darkmanx
Rock Crawler
winkscrawler
Rock Crawler
Interesting idea that may prove to be advantageous. I think I will wait for its release and see it work in person before I come to a conclusion. Till then..."thumbsup"
WarTrader
Rock Crawler
Every Odyssey is allowed a little sarcasim once in a while. I right now don't have a xr10 i did but sold it off. I like watching where this rig is heading though. From my humble comp experience when the clock is ticking and the pressure is on keeping it simple is usually best. Last year I ran a berg with a 4pk and for me when the pressure is on it is hard enough to use dig and the throttle mixing to its Max potential throwing in more is gonna keep you really busy. Reliability aside I myself would have to think if the extra weight would be useful enough to warrant installing if it's function is limited to just a few specific instances.
The big thing you must remember is that ultimately to more weight you add to the rear you are probably going to end up offsetting by adding weight to the front. Much of that weight is going to end up in the front wheels. The problem there is that from a physics stand point rotating mass weighs as 4x more. Soon that 4oz you add to offset the servo will add up to one pound hammering away on all those lovely little pins in your cvds, and gearboxes.
Ever wonder why you see some of the guys around here with a bazillion posts are soon worried about weight balance? Now you do. Not only is a light rig more nimble it can end up being more reliable.
The big thing you must remember is that ultimately to more weight you add to the rear you are probably going to end up offsetting by adding weight to the front. Much of that weight is going to end up in the front wheels. The problem there is that from a physics stand point rotating mass weighs as 4x more. Soon that 4oz you add to offset the servo will add up to one pound hammering away on all those lovely little pins in your cvds, and gearboxes.
Ever wonder why you see some of the guys around here with a bazillion posts are soon worried about weight balance? Now you do. Not only is a light rig more nimble it can end up being more reliable.
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In all seriousness, if you know your rig, and controller, you should know when you'll need dig/mixing and have no problem finding it on the remote without even looking at it.
Sounds like pressure gets to you easily.
WarTrader
Rock Crawler
LOL no not really. Love when people try to make a tech conversation personal . Please really read what I was saying I finally got to finish my thogbts sorry on a phone at work.
