crawl187
Rock Stacker
Could you not find a set you like then drill and tap to fit..?
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Tommy R's TTC Build - "Big Oly"
- Thread starter Tommy R
- Start date
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Certainly possible and that may be what I end up doing, but before I go that route I figured I would try to locate some hubs that are already tapped properly. So far my searches haven't come up with anything, though.
STANG KILLA SS
~THE SCALE SHOP~
i cant think of any. may have to just go with axial "covers"
ecoli
I wanna be Dave
None that I'm aware of. For mine, I bought the MSD center hubs and had Generis drill and tap the front ones to 5mm. Now that I'm running super 300s front and rear, I'll have to send the rears to him 
! The quality of these hubs makes it worthwhile doing though.
! The quality of these hubs makes it worthwhile doing though.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
If worse comes to worst, I will do exactly that. 8)
None that I'm aware of. For mine, I bought the MSD center hubs and had Generis drill and tap the front ones to 5mm. Now that I'm running super 300s front and rear, I'll have to send the rears to him
I like the MSD hubs. I may consider getting a set and tapping the fronts larger. Chris, do you happen to know how they work with 2.2 CAC's with their coned middle section?
Seeing as Super 300's are so popular I'm frankly surprised that more companies haven't started making more 5mm hubs.
team3six
www.team3sixrc.com
Try contacting rogue elements I think he goes by toyranasaurous or something like that here. Chris makes some of the most awesome hubs. I have a set that fits over the screw, then you lock it down and replace the hub cover.
You have to sign up on his website to get notifications. But his email addy is on his website.
You have to sign up on his website to get notifications. But his email addy is on his website.
ecoli
I wanna be Dave
From what I remember of the CAC's, they had relatively little thread sticking out past the center removeable offset/hex section. I remember getting Axial center caps on there was a pain, and I often lost them.
The MSD hubs have a fairly large flat surface to the back of them, so you're right, they might not work with your wheels.
The rogue elements ones are nice, but again you may run into issues with that sunken center section on the wheels (i.e., the hubs may be too large a diameter to fit in there).
HotRodJosh
Quarry Creeper
Killer build Tommy....
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Thanks, man! Should have a nice update by tomorrow. Still getting it put back together for the scale GTG on Saturday.
The Rouge Element ones do fit the CAC's fine, you usually have to cut the threads down a bit for most wheels. But with the recess in the CAC's, I just used a 3mm spacer. As for 5mm thread, you might be able to drill and tap them alright. I'll have to look to be sure. When Chris builds his hubs, he just presses a 4mm nylock nut in them. That's why the pocket isn't very deep.
Here a pic of Rouge Elements wheel nuts on my CAC's.
team3six
www.team3sixrc.com
Tommy, These are the Hubs i was refering to, Not the WARN ones like Shons, I have those as well and they sick too.
I think if you can get a hold of these bad boys. This would really set it off. I would seriously contact Chris and ask him. Tell him I sent you or Shon did. we both are pretty tight with him.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280152
I think if you can get a hold of these bad boys. This would really set it off. I would seriously contact Chris and ask him. Tell him I sent you or Shon did. we both are pretty tight with him.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280152
Those ones would work good as long as they will fit down in the hubs. Do you know the O.D. Norm. Wouldn't mind asking Chris if he'll do another run of them.
team3six
www.team3sixrc.com
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Thanks a bunch for the hub suggestions, y'all. I'll keep them all in mind, but right now I've got bigger fish to fry... 
Saturday we had a trail run so I took the Bronco out. Performance-wise, it did okay, but there were some issues: VERY short run times and more torque twist!
RUN TIME: I'm running two 1750 mAh packs (3s) for a total of 3500 mAh! Even in a heavy pig with a puller like the Bronco it should be good for lengthy run times, but no. After about 20 minutes or so, it's basically dead. Motor isn't overly hot (130*F) and everything else feels/works fine. I think I know what's causing the short run times...
My Axial transmission doesn't spin freely at all. For example, if you hold the trans in your hand and spin the spur gear it doesn't freewheel at all, regardless of how fast you spin it. No binding, no notchiness. Gears/mesh look good. The internals are all Robinson racing with the slipper removed and light coating of marine grease. I'm wondering if the grease may have had some sort of reaction with the plastic trans case? I have another case so I'll swap everything over and see if things improve. Any other ideas? FYI, each gear spins freely during installation. I'll do more troubleshooting soon.
TORQUE TWIST: I altered my links maybe 1/8" and now it seems I have noticeable torque twist, but had very little before. I know my shocks have lost oil and that may be contributing to the problem. Also, the rig got heavier with the latest revisions and it was basically bottoming out the suspension, i.e. running droop. I guess I need to play with springs now, too. Any other suggestions to remedy torque twist?
Anyway, here's a video I quickly compiled:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjsK482hoHk
And some photos by STANG KILLA SS. Thanks again, Cory!
Saturday we had a trail run so I took the Bronco out. Performance-wise, it did okay, but there were some issues: VERY short run times and more torque twist!RUN TIME: I'm running two 1750 mAh packs (3s) for a total of 3500 mAh! Even in a heavy pig with a puller like the Bronco it should be good for lengthy run times, but no. After about 20 minutes or so, it's basically dead. Motor isn't overly hot (130*F) and everything else feels/works fine. I think I know what's causing the short run times...
My Axial transmission doesn't spin freely at all. For example, if you hold the trans in your hand and spin the spur gear it doesn't freewheel at all, regardless of how fast you spin it. No binding, no notchiness. Gears/mesh look good. The internals are all Robinson racing with the slipper removed and light coating of marine grease. I'm wondering if the grease may have had some sort of reaction with the plastic trans case? I have another case so I'll swap everything over and see if things improve. Any other ideas? FYI, each gear spins freely during installation. I'll do more troubleshooting soon.
TORQUE TWIST: I altered my links maybe 1/8" and now it seems I have noticeable torque twist, but had very little before. I know my shocks have lost oil and that may be contributing to the problem. Also, the rig got heavier with the latest revisions and it was basically bottoming out the suspension, i.e. running droop. I guess I need to play with springs now, too. Any other suggestions to remedy torque twist?
Anyway, here's a video I quickly compiled:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjsK482hoHk
And some photos by STANG KILLA SS. Thanks again, Cory!
Run time
You are still running a puller. When I used my 10t I only get 20min as well with a 3s 2100
Also check you Puller springs make sure there in right I threw a spring once.
I have a 35t hand wound in and get well over a hour.
Axial transmission maybe one of your Mip's are locked up. Do you always wd40 them or grease. There could be another battery problem. fixing the power. Take those out and make sure the end rotate nice.
TORQUE TWIST How heavy is this rig now? :ror: I had this problem so I made sway bar system. NO more twist. I see your running a pan bar in front, maybe throw one in the rear to counter it.
Good luck you Bronco is looking good.
You are still running a puller. When I used my 10t I only get 20min as well with a 3s 2100
Also check you Puller springs make sure there in right I threw a spring once.
I have a 35t hand wound in and get well over a hour.
Axial transmission maybe one of your Mip's are locked up. Do you always wd40 them or grease. There could be another battery problem. fixing the power. Take those out and make sure the end rotate nice.
TORQUE TWIST How heavy is this rig now? :ror: I had this problem so I made sway bar system. NO more twist. I see your running a pan bar in front, maybe throw one in the rear to counter it.
Good luck you Bronco is looking good.
i think marine graese maybe too thick and tacky. Try degreasioing the gears and reassemble the trans dry. if if spins freely, then try a slightly thinner grease to keep everything wearing nicely.
If you think your case is the culprit, Just upggrade to the VP case and be done with it. the fint and finish on tthat thing is spectacular.
Also, how do your axles spin? Are you using marine grease in them as well?
And I suggest you lube those MIP's like Saydee suggested. Those things are probably binding and rusting after all those runs through the muck.
If you think your case is the culprit, Just upggrade to the VP case and be done with it. the fint and finish on tthat thing is spectacular.
Also, how do your axles spin? Are you using marine grease in them as well?
And I suggest you lube those MIP's like Saydee suggested. Those things are probably binding and rusting after all those runs through the muck.
STANG KILLA SS
~THE SCALE SHOP~
id be willing to bet the mesh on those robinson tranny gears isnt as good as the stock axials. when you pull it apart, throw in teh stock axial gears with no grease, button it up and give it a freewheel test. im guessing there will be a big difference.
also i think your running 32P spur and pinion? if so they will also be less effecient than 48P. this is why onroad runs 64P for effeciency. but this should really be a non issue, ie splitting hairs. 32P is probly only 5%-8% less effecient than 48P
sounds like others are saying the puller maybe part of the problem as well. which is why i kept saying to try a 540 before :lol: but i think you said you have to run it due to clearance issues?
also i think your running 32P spur and pinion? if so they will also be less effecient than 48P. this is why onroad runs 64P for effeciency. but this should really be a non issue, ie splitting hairs. 32P is probly only 5%-8% less effecient than 48P
sounds like others are saying the puller maybe part of the problem as well. which is why i kept saying to try a 540 before :lol: but i think you said you have to run it due to clearance issues?
Last edited:
I have all robinson gears (with the one piece bottom gear) in a VP case and it spun pretty well when it wasn't greased up. Obviously, it wasn't as buttery as the plastic gears, but I doubt the mesh was an issue.
I think it has more to do with the marine greas being too think. i would try using a much lighter grease. The robinson gears are hardened, and I think the main purpose of the grease in this case would be too keep everything cool and on a smaller scale, reduce wear.
I think it has more to do with the marine greas being too think. i would try using a much lighter grease. The robinson gears are hardened, and I think the main purpose of the grease in this case would be too keep everything cool and on a smaller scale, reduce wear.
