Joywrex's Creeper Build (First RC ever)

[joywrex]

Spread the front links.

New wheels.

Added a little more weight to the wheels. (just the wire on either side)

 

[venomcrawlerdud]

looking good, ur getting there

 

[speed king]

looks way better with the different tires

 

[joywrex]

I just crawled my usual spot with the new tires. OMG it's so much better.:razz:

 

[rmdesignworks]

front upper links

Id move your front upper links to the spot marked with the yellow dot. This will increase the link seperation at the chassis which will help under torque load...the lower the front uppers are on the chassis side the more "dive" youll get when the chassis/suspension loads up.

 

[joywrex]

Id move your front upper links to the spot marked with the yellow dot. This will increase the link seperation at the chassis which will help under torque load...the lower the front uppers are on the chassis side the more "dive" youll get when the chassis/suspension loads up.

Interesting...All this triangualtion stuff illudes me. I would probably have to make more links out of knitting needles to do that. We'll see how it goes.

 

[rmdesignworks]

Interesting...All this triangualtion stuff illudes me. I would probably have to make more links out of knitting needles to do that. We'll see how it goes.

I dont think you need new links looking at the pics you posted...just drill a hole about where I indicated with the yellow dot and remount the upper links to that point.

In link geometry there are several factors that work together to make the rig do certain things...I have these details laid out in depth in my T&T sticky thread...if you need more info after reading that then let me know and Ill work to help you out.

 

[joywrex]

I have a proline bug body. I want to connect it to the creeper (which my gf calls the love buggy because of the flames that turn into hearts in the paint job).

How do I connect the new body to the chassis with body pins which stick up. It is probably way more durable if the body pins are pointing up rather than on the sides like stock right?

 

[rmdesignworks]

youll need a couple of 1/4" cable clamps which you can just about anywhere even Radio Shack...one for the frint and one for the rear...screw a short body post to the front one and a long post to the rear one...you can also get nylon 1/4-20 bolts and nuts from Ace Hardware when you get the clamps...cut off the head of the bolt ot thread it thru the clamp and use a nylon nut to secure it then cut it off just a little longer then it needs to be to stick through the body and use another nylon nut to secure the body...the tricky part is drilling the body for the posts....

 

[venomcrawlerdud]

thats what i would do, or for just a kit u can buy GUNNER's body mount kit. either way will work it just depends on if u want to buy a kt or biuld it ur self.

 

[joywrex]

progress

So I painted the Proline bug body (of course, I will have to cut it down a lot more. I'm just waiting for my RMDW upper rear link plate)

I'm ready to practice my rolling back over with it:

I'm planning on 3d printing this front tranny scrape plate next:

 

[joywrex]

I dont think you need new links looking at the pics you posted...just drill a hole about where I indicated with the yellow dot and remount the upper links to that point.

In link geometry there are several factors that work together to make the rig do certain things...I have these details laid out in depth in my T&T sticky thread...if you need more info after reading that then let me know and Ill work to help you out.

I tried but the links are too long. It would make the front axle point really far forward. I could make new links... I probably will.

 

[joywrex]

I tried but the links are too long. It would make the front axle point really far forward. I could make new links... I probably will.

If I make new links, is where your dot is still the optimal placement?

 

[joywrex]

baja bug

I wanted to keep the fenders on the body really bad but there was not chance of getting away with it in the front.

Final trimming:

 

[rmdesignworks]

the spot I marked isnt necessarily the best spot but you are limited due to the design of the stock chassis unless you make a plate to fill in the square areas on both sides of the chassis. The main things is to raise the fornt links at chassis and the rears at the axle...the increased seperation in these two areas will help with anti dive/anti/squat and torque twist.

 

[venomcrawlerdud]

im shure this is probley over kill, but hey it works for me so, im not going to complain.

my front links are mounted on the very top hole of those 3 holes for where the antena mounted to.

 

[rmdesignworks]

Noah...pm sent

 

[joywrex]

3d prints

I borrowed a hotter soldering iron from work and changed my tamiya plugs to deans so that I can use a 3 cell battery that I got. Still waiting for the low voltage curcuit though. Soldering to dean's plugs suck!

The truck is a lot faster with 3c. I couldn't tell if it had anymore torque inside my house.

I printed my skid plate and with a few modifications for when the rig is articulated its done. Now I need to screw it on.

 

[speed king]

well the creeper was short lived i had to peice it together becasue it didnt come with screws so i did that then my system hated all the torque front the venom motor o ya i also didnt hve upper links but anything i tried to get it to stick to it did with out foams in the tires well enough of me thoe skid plates look nice

 

[joywrex]

Well I went to Yosemite and the love buggy fell off a giant boulder...twice.

The new body worked well. If i had the stock creeper body on it it would have shattered into 1 mil pieces.

The only damage was this:

Where do u get link ends?

its 12$ for the rear lower links complete. Should I just get that?