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Horsetooth Badlands Wraith - Back from the dead

I use a tekin 17.5t sensored with the rs esc not too familiar with mamba esc's do they have an option to set a boost at a variable rpm range or turbo type setting? With 0 timing using 18/80 gearing and a 3s lipo I get speeds just barely faster than stock but tons more torque.

I have the timing advanced 2 out of 3 settings advanced on the esc settings, which helped but not quite there yet. No turbo setting or boost......
 
I use a tekin 17.5t sensored with the rs esc not too familiar with mamba esc's do they have an option to set a boost at a variable rpm range or turbo type setting? With 0 timing using 18/80 gearing and a 3s lipo I get speeds just barely faster than stock but tons more torque.

If I rember right the pro has that too. I'm about 25 miles east. When I get mine set up I wanna meet you guys at horse tooth also. As for the servo brand I copied you. Just ordered a Tekin sensorless 632 to try out in it.
 
I have the timing advanced 2 out of 3 settings advanced on the esc settings, which helped but not quite there yet. No turbo setting or boost......


On the Castle Link Click the advanced tab Then under that menu select "cheat" then drop down menu under timing all the way up to 50 degrees then select the RPM when it kicks in. You actually made me get up and grab my Slash so darn it man.
 
On the Castle Link Click the advanced tab Then under that menu select "cheat" then drop down menu under timing all the way up to 50 degrees then select the RPM when it kicks in. You actually made me get up and grab my Slash so darn it man.

Thanks for the info, I will hook it up to the laptop again and see what I can do.
 
On the Castle Link Click the advanced tab Then under that menu select "cheat" then drop down menu under timing all the way up to 50 degrees then select the RPM when it kicks in. You actually made me get up and grab my Slash so darn it man.

Wow, messing with the Castle Link changes things. So I had been set on "smart sence" so I changed that to sensored only, then was able to move the cheat bar around. I was not brave eneough to go to 50 so I went to the top standard menu option of 10. Set the RPM to the lowest range, but I realize in should move it up so the low end stays slower and then ramps up at mid speed. It really kicked the speed up, now it seems to be just a bit faster than stock. Perfect. I just need to keep an eye on the temps to make sure things are staying cool.

It is glitching a bit at low speeds so I need to review my ESC settings and connections to see if I can find a cause. The glitch seems to be related to the servo action????

I just got in the new rear axle shafts today and slapped em in and remounted the outside rings on both rear tires as the beads had pulled loose last outing. I should have her back on the rocks to test the new electronics after changing all the settings and also test out the XVD's and Vanquish parts with the increased steering. Really have not had her out since getting the electronics and steering upgrades. Should be fun.
 
How is it glitching? Trial and error will help you with the esc/motor settings. I know with the tekin I got it omfgwtf fast and had to tune it back down. It was scary fast for a bit. Wound up and took off like a rubberband. Hope you get out On the rocks soon. Something you might think about is putting a 6" extention on your esc/ receiver wire so you don't have to open your electronics box every Tim you want to retune your esc. Burry it under the hood/ or back if you have done the electronics / battery swap.
 
How is it glitching? Trial and error will help you with the esc/motor settings. I know with the tekin I got it omfgwtf fast and had to tune it back down. It was scary fast for a bit. Wound up and took off like a rubberband. Hope you get out On the rocks soon. Something you might think about is putting a 6" extention on your esc/ receiver wire so you don't have to open your electronics box every Tim you want to retune your esc. Burry it under the hood/ or back if you have done the electronics / battery swap.

THe glitching seems to be related to the servo????? Put up on blocks, i run the motor with no steering input and it seems to work fine. Then while running the motor and steering from side to side, the motor starts to glitch a bit, making the rig a bit nervous to drive on the rocks.

Getting closer on the ESC settings, trial and error. Kinda awsome to see the fat tires wad up and peel out on asphault, but I dialed it down and will be doing more fine tuning.

Good idea on the extension. My electronics box is easy to access, but it would be nice to have easier access.
 
You wouldn't happen to be using a Spektrum rx/tx would you?

missed this. I am just using the stock radio and receiver. still glitching. just rewired it to check the connections, servo extension was a bit loose. I isolated the antenna more and still glitching - motor lurches erratically during streering only, just throtttle is smooth????????? why is the steering causing glitching with the throttle??????
 
Have you setup your steering rate on your tx? The wraith steering knuckles have the ability to turn past the range of the axle cups and cause binding. I had that issue when I untapped a new servo without setting endpoints. If the servo binds it will draw excessive power trying to get to the point the tx/rx is telling it to go. Your servo should be getting warm if this is the case. Something else to look at is the dogbone / drivecup relation lock to lock.
 
The testing has been a blast. The XVD's didn't make it to the rocks:shock:

Some of you may remember Skippy from way back, he ripped it around the driveway and it blew out the cup. Granted Skippy just has a tendany the break sh*t but needless to say it doesn't seem like it would hold up to serious abuse. I have seen at least one other one here break so I would advise aginst the XVD's unless improvements are made. Back to the stock dogbones until somethings better comes out.. Gonna search around cause I remember some other solutions.
 

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Did a few tweaks to get the suspension dialed in. With the upper shock extensions in the rear, I was able to flip the lower shock/link mounts back to stock and get back that little bit of clearance under the axel. Then I noticed with that change that the chocks were bottoming out and there was still about 1/4 before the frame made contact with the upper link mount. This allowed me to remove the big bump stops and use all the shock stroke on the bigger shocks. I used small bump stops ( O rings from old shocks ) and the shocks bottom out just before contacting the frame ( see 1st pic below ).

Great stance now with plenty of adjustability and seems quite stable in rough terrain with the half droop setup. See the video in the next post.

I am loving the speed of the 17.5 Novak motor. The cheat advance at 30 seems perfect. The speed seems to fit the scale of the Wraith and with the terrain that I drive, any more would just break stuff faster.
 

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The water level has dropped enought to expose the area that I named this rig after. With the dangerous lines of shale ridges and rocks, I named the area "Badlands". My first time here with this rig because it has been underwater for most of the summer. I think the rig lives up to it's goal of handleing the rough and diverse terrain. Lots of climbs, ridges, gullies, lips, rocks and chutes to link together for some classic rock racing lines. I will be working out some courses over the winter cause I will have the area to myself once it gets cooler and the water gets lower, so much great crawing and rockracing here in the fall and winter8) Some lucky few may get a tour......

Enough talking,

Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB1K0mlGKeA

Oh yea, its almost 7 minutes, but the Badlands are amazing"thumbsup"
 
The water level has dropped enought to expose the area that I named this rig after. With the dangerous lines of shale ridges and rocks, I named the area "Badlands". My first time here with this rig because it has been underwater for most of the summer. I think the rig lives up to it's goal of handleing the rough and diverse terrain. Lots of climbs, ridges, gullies, lips, rocks and chutes to link together for some classic rock racing lines. I will be working out some courses over the winter cause I will have the area to myself once it gets cooler and the water gets lower, so much great crawing and rockracing here in the fall and winter8) Some lucky few may get a tour......

Enough talking,

Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB1K0mlGKeA

Oh yea, its almost 7 minutes, but the Badlands are amazing"thumbsup"


Thats a 17.5 sensored Tekin?
 
Body Work

sorry for the crappy cell phone photos.......got a peek into GettoFabs workshop and it looks like there is some body work going on. Got tires of the stock look and hacked up some short course bodies I had laying around. It went well eneough to try it with a new body. Bought a Proline universal fit body and started hacking. The final product is a hood piece that wraps all the way to the rear pillars, and then each rear 3/4 panel is seperate. The hood is made from a center section and 2 side panels to complete the piece. Managed to get a short roof out of this one that fit decent. Still to do: still need the hood mount for the very front, final trimming to do and new firewalls to fab up, and then paint. Not sure without paint, but I think I like the lines alot.
 

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I already posted this elsewhere, but here is the update for the record. Here is the end result of the short course body experiment. The lines came out great. I had a few fit issues. I call this the Scorr Buggy style. This is going to be version 1 - I have an Associated SC10 body waiting. I have some improvements in mind after some lessons the first go. I will take my time with that so I can do some testing to make sure it works well and holds up to the abuse.

Mean while some boatsides are in the works. no pics yet but as soon as I get them mounted I will post them up.
 

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Got the new body out on the rocks and I think it looks great. ALready small carnage as the lexan cracked at the passenger side fender where it rolls under. Took a hard direct hit there and a small crack split. Also had to trim the body to stop the front wheels from scrubbing at full flex, as you will hear in the video.

VIDEO:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swDuz7eNu0I


The video is a test of new settings on the Mamba PRo ESC. My rig is set up primarily for rock racing speed, but I am trying a setup geared for crawling. Still running stock gearing and a 17.5 brushless on 2c. I just toned down the throttle and increased the dragbreak. Overall I am happy with the crawling, and still have decent wheelspeed. I am thinking that I will kepp this rig tuned for rock racing and then will build another Wraith purpose built for Crawling8)
 
That body looks top notch! so does that spot. I need to get up there and check it out and do a little crawling!
 
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