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Joywrex's Creeper Build (First RC ever)

Should I do star cuts in the outer foams? Do you do that?

I make my own sets of foams called Paradox Dual Disk foams...they dont need to be cut...chappy has run them for quite a while and Ive never run anything but the PDD's...they just work. CreeperBob runs 'em too...few other people. PDD's fill a Rover but dont act like any other foam insert on the market.
 
i made them plaster cast of the rim then pulled a female off the male and then pored the lead in the female mold they were .1oz difference

You can also use aluminum foil..the heavier stuff works best...but form it evenly into your wheel without the lock ring on and melt cheap solder or lead into the foiled area...YOU SHOULD NOT DO THIS IF YOUR WHEELS ARE PLASTIC...THEY MAY MELT.
 
i made them plaster cast of the rim then pulled a female off the male and then pored the lead in the female Mold they were .1oz difference

You can also use aluminum foil..the heavier stuff works best...but form it evenly into your wheel without the lock ring on and melt cheap solder or lead into the foiled area...YOU SHOULD NOT DO THIS IF YOUR WHEELS ARE PLASTIC...THEY MAY MELT. Before you start melting though..place a short piece of 1/2" K&S aluminum tubing that you can get at almost any hardware/hobby store in the center to make a tube for the wheel nut removal...make the tube long enough to be even with the outer edge of your wheel so you can completely fill the wheel with melted solder or lead. The tubing stays in when you are done. Once cool the weight can be secured in the wheel by installing the lock ring
 
You can also use aluminum foil..the heavier stuff works best...but form it evenly into your wheel without the lock ring on and melt cheap solder or lead into the foiled area...YOU SHOULD NOT DO THIS IF YOUR WHEELS ARE PLASTIC...THEY MAY MELT. Before you start melting though..place a short piece of 1/2" K&S aluminum tubing that you can get at almost any hardware/hobby store in the center to make a tube for the wheel nut removal...make the tube long enough to be even with the outer edge of your wheel so you can completely fill the wheel with melted solder or lead. The tubing stays in when you are done. Once cool the weight can be secured in the wheel by installing the lock ring

That sounds fun, and I do have a lot of lead shot for some reason. I'm running stock creeper wheels though and tehy are plastic. I think I have enough weight. Im going to do star cuts in the outer foams in the rear and see how that goes first. Then I will probably end up getting the PARADOX foams!:flipoff:
 
Well I was doing a little wire management to make sure everything was in its place on the rig and i apparently reversed the connection wire between the receiver to the esc...

The receiver promptly filled my house with delicious cancer-smoke.

I ordered a new receiver. I hope that it the only part that got fried!

lame

Well I got a new receiver. The esc might be messed up too...I turn on the esc power switch and it goes forward at 100% speed. Thats all it will do. That happens whether or not the receiver is connected. WTF do I do??? The rooster crawler esc doesnt have a reset switch from what I can tell.

Wow, I just got hit by a 4.2 earthquake while I was writing this.
 
Well I got a new receiver. The esc might be messed up too...I turn on the esc power switch and it goes forward at 100% speed. Thats all it will do. That happens whether or not the receiver is connected. WTF do I do??? The rooster crawler esc doesnt have a reset switch from what I can tell.

Wow, I just got hit by a 4.2 earthquake while I was writing this.

okay if u have the insturtions it will tell u what to do about programing the esc, but next to where the red and green LEDs are there is a little tinny black butten that is your reset and program button. read the instructions about how to program it. i had a problem with it too when i got the esc.

and that is crazy about the earthquake hope everyone is alright "thumbsup"
 
That sounds fun, and I do have a lot of lead shot for some reason. I'm running stock creeper wheels though and tehy are plastic. I think I have enough weight. Im going to do star cuts in the outer foams in the rear and see how that goes first. Then I will probably end up getting the PARADOX foams!:flipoff:

are you looking for more traction if so cut the fronts and the rears but the fronts more u dont want to rears to bite as much as the fronts"thumbsup"
 
I made a plaster cast of the rim then pulled a female off the male and then poured the lead in the female mold. They were .1oz difference
Who did what??;-)
The final weight was put into a lathe to trim down the face so it was just about flush with the beadlock ring. Thye basically won't move with the rings on.
The center hole was added you you could get a nut driver in to remove the wheel without having to remove the weight.

I could add detail on how to do it (make the mold, etc.) if you are interested.8)
 
Well I got a new receiver. The esc might be messed up too...I turn on the esc power switch and it goes forward at 100% speed. Thats all it will do. That happens whether or not the receiver is connected. WTF do I do??? The rooster crawler esc doesnt have a reset switch from what I can tell.

Wow, I just got hit by a 4.2 earthquake while I was writing this.
Did you recalibrate the ESC to the RX? Is it working now?
That is what Venomcrawlerdud was describing.
 
Did you recalibrate the ESC to the RX? Is it working now?
That is what Venomcrawlerdud was describing.

I desoldered the motor and reset the esc to the rx (it blinked in all the right ways and the green light would go on when i pull the trigger etc) It still does the same thing. I also looked at the rx settings and nothing is set to forward 100% or something like that...:evil:

WTF
 
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