JC Auto Design - SCX10 Rear Upper Link Risers - Improved geometry

[rc's suck]

Got my steel ones thank you! The envelope was roped a little so you may want to tape the edges.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[monkeyracer]

best thing to happen for the scx chassis in awhile...

installed sets on my G6 honcho and G6 jk.

a noticeable difference in the front not lifting as easy going uphill.

"thumbsup"

Thanks! Glad to hear they are working as designed.

Recieved mine today. Envelope had tares in it as described. But both inside. Installed now. Gained 2° from stock. Awesome!

Thanks for the results, I had another user report the same 2° increase. It doesn't sound like a lot, but can make the difference between making the climb and not.

Got mine few days ago, got it installed on mattzilla chassis and will be testing tomorow.....will post pics tomorow.

Thanks! Will be glad to see some pics.

hevent recieved mine yet, and i think i was one the first mailing for the revised steel versions.

i work with alot of direct mail, and i know the mail-sort systems in the post office are brutal on launching things that are loose inside a standard envelope.

PM Sent.

Got my steel ones thank you! The envelope was roped a little so you may want to tape the edges.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

When I dropped these off, the guy at the post office said he was putting them in the non-machinable bin, but apparently that's not what happened. I'm going back to padded envelopes. Shipping cost is more, but less than replacing "lost in mails".

All paid and replacement orders have shipped today, so keep an eye out in the mail in the next few days.

 

[Calderwood]

When I dropped these off, the guy at the post office said he was putting them in the non-machinable bin, but apparently that's not what happened. I'm going back to padded envelopes. Shipping cost is more, but less than replacing "lost in mails".

All paid and replacement orders have shipped today, so keep an eye out in the mail in the next few days.

What postage did you buy? That's all that matters, not what bin PO dude said he was going to use.

 

[monkeyracer]

What postage did you buy? That's all that matters, not what bin PO dude said he was going to use.

Plain old stamps. After some more research, he was supposed to charge an additional amount for a "rigid item" or non-machinable surcharge.

Now, all packages are shipped First Class mail, with tracking numbers.

 

[badhoopty]

like i said in my pm, if i do recieve the ones you sent originally i'll let ya know and send the replacements back.

"thumbsup"

obviously i posted this before i read your pm with evidence of the returned envelope.

 

[xigtc]

I got mine today!


Thomas

 

[Calderwood]

Plain old stamps. After some more research, he was supposed to charge an additional amount for a "rigid item" or non-machinable surcharge.

Now, all packages are shipped First Class mail, with tracking numbers.

Do yourself a favor, buy a scale and print you postage from home. It's cheaper than the PO, no handwriting labels, and you aren't counting on PO guy to get it right.

 

[monkeyracer]

Do yourself a favor, buy a scale and print you postage from home. It's cheaper than the PO, no handwriting labels, and you aren't counting on PO guy to get it right.

Was trying a new method here. Since these were thin enough, I tried regular mail based on the recommendation of the PO clerk (only time I go in to the PO is to pick up signature packages I missed...) but... lesson learned. "If you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself."

Before this, I always self-served. (Weigh at home, print at home, drop off without waiting in line... I have a whole set-up, assembly line style, from post-processing to packaging to shipping...)
The less I have to do, the better.
I'm *almost* offended you thought I didn't already do that, but given the information you had, I see how you made that conclusion.
Again, lesson learned. Moving on now...

 

[CBR74]

My JCAD items arrived today. I'm heating water to dye the white nylon to black right now.

 

[DV8ion]

I got my risers today...all the way up here in Canada. "thumbsup"

 

[CBR74]

I installed the V2's since the V3's would require drilling a hole in the frame and making a spacer between the frame and the riser and I'm just not that into it at the moment.

 

[CBR74]

Looks like I'll be mounting up the V3's. The V2's didn't survive crawler course practice.

 

[monkeyracer]

I installed the V2's since the V3's would require drilling a hole in the frame and making a spacer between the frame and the riser and I'm just not that into it at the moment.

Looks like I'll be mounting up the V3's. The V2's didn't survive crawler course practice.

I will be re-releasing the V2's in Nylon. The nylon is much stronger and should hold up to quite a bit of abuse. I should have those ready very soon.

@CBR74 - You've got a PM coming your way...

 

[CBR74]

Answered.

The V3's go on without too much trouble. I bolted them up on the outside to use as a template to mark the spot for the extra mounting hole then drilled it. Add two more M3X15 machine screws and 2 more nylocks to the hardware list if you go with the V3's. I thought they would need a spacer in between the riser and the channel of the chassis but turned out that was not necessary.

 

[monkeyracer]

Answered.

The V3's go on without too much trouble. I bolted them up on the outside to use as a template to mark the spot for the extra mounting hole then drilled it. Add two more M3X15 machine screws and 2 more nylocks to the hardware list if you go with the V3's. I thought they would need a spacer in between the riser and the channel of the chassis but turned out that was not necessary.

I had a nice installation thread, but it just disappeared. I guess it didn't meet some forum rule, but no notification about it, so I don't know what to change...

Anyway, I will post the instructions here as well...

 

[Natedog]

Introducing...

CX10 Rear upper link mount risers

These parts will allow you to raise up the chassis side rear upper link mounting points to give you better anti-squat characteristics (see below for a tech answer on why this is good...)

• Weighs only 14 grams (0.5 oz) for the pair!
• Improves performance on uphill climbs
• Works with stock SCX10 Chassis and skid, with minimal modifications necessary (just need to drill a hole on each side of chassis)
• Raises your mount up 15mm and back about 3mm, so it should be compatible with almost any existing setup. No need to change out your links!
• Increases pinion angle using stock links
• Steel V3 can be welded to chassis rails

The only other modifications I recommend would be to drill the skid mounting hole where the upper link attaches to 1/8" or 3mm so that you can screw through the chassis as well as the riser.



Here's some more info on why this is a good thing for your rig:
With the raised COG and often vertical climbs these rigs encounter, the stock squat set-up actually makes it easier for the front suspension to unload and allow the vehicle to flip over backward. By simply changing the mounting point, this turns the geometry to an anti-squat set-up and when under power, the rotation of the axle actually raises the back end of the vehicle, providing a forward bias, helping you get up and over that steep climb.

Squat vs. Anti-squat:


More info in many threads on RCC, but here's one recent one or two that I liked:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-scale-talk/453080-3-4-link-dummies.html

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-...ughings-class2-ultra4-jeep-4.html#post4396724

I like those in steel, very nice.

 

[monkeyracer]

Updated the first few posts with Up-to-date information, Installation instructions and the link for the re-release of the plastic V2s.

The V2's are now made from stronger material, and should hold up to quite a bit more abuse than the ABS ever could (even when there weren't software issues plaguing the print process).

The Nylon version are dyed black, and ready to go. I have some in stock, and they will be available at The Super Shafty website as well. These will be made in batches because of the dye process, but typically I will have any paid order in the mail within 5 business days of payment.

All orders ship USPS First Class mail with a tracking number. Shipping is included in the price for all US 48 customers, any others please PM me for a shipping quote.

As always, thank you to everyone for your support and suggestions on these.

 

[bigchad]

just received my replacement upper links thanks a lot

 

[801RYAN]

Answered.

The V3's go on without too much trouble. I bolted them up on the outside to use as a template to mark the spot for the extra mounting hole then drilled it. Add two more M3X15 machine screws and 2 more nylocks to the hardware list if you go with the V3's. I thought they would need a spacer in between the riser and the channel of the chassis but turned out that was not necessary.

I used the same process, but also bent mine at 30 degrees like suggested .. Haven't had the time to test them out yet.

"thumbsup"

 

[v84x4]

Got my new "NYLON" V2's

Much thicker and more durable

Thanks for the Great Product "thumbsup"

Regards Rick