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"Must have" upgrades for SCX10 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon RTR

I dont think that there is a must have... It all depends on your needs. If you dont have a huge budget, drive the car and replace whatever brakes with an upgraded spare part...

I also bought the RTR a while ago and started my first upgrade by buying a new servo.
 
I used my high end Hitec Servo from the off (With BEC). The soft steering links were being bent in every way....Sooooo....I added the Aluminium links. The torque of the servo would cause the knuckle to bend and eventually this failed. Soooo Aluminium knuckles....Now the extra strain goes through the upgraded links to the upgraded knuckles and the stock C-hubs flex and bend. :( Haha....
 
If you all really paid attention to the new Axial Jk kit I must say is it just me or has Axial beefed up theor plastic?

I held a first release knuckle next to a brand new one and the old knuckle seemed to be very stiff almost fragile to a point I know it will snap if hit hard enough. The new one off the JK kit seems a little more forgiving and slightly beefier in compound. I also noticed the scx10 skid seemed more robust as well. Unfortunately they did the sesame thing a with the wraith kit and left plastic upper links!!! Why?!!

its sure is fun to build another scx10 now that I have built 4 of them already and the only true scx10 left is a hard bodied Tamiya tundra. Everything else has custom chassis or moved on to another owner. This one will be a spare parts build since Corey had that axial sale for 300 I said why not?!
 
Im pretty new to this rock crawling /trail truck scene but now own 2 axial products..the honcho and the rubicon unlimited.

Its recommended to move the battery to the front..Its just not as capable climbing wise as the honcho is with all the weight to the rear.

The second thing ive noticed is the stock maxxis trepador tires just don't have the grip the ripsaw tires have on the honcho...they are taller
but much narrower..On sufaces I play on (grass/dirt/rock) there is no comparison to the ripsaw tires.

One thing ive noticed is the stock 27 turn motor wth a 2s lipo is more than enough power to do anything you want with the truck.
I run a 17 tooth pinion on my stock 27 turn motor and torque is plentiful..It slowed down alittle top speed wise but still gives
good wheel speed to get you through that mud or a running start on a difficult hill.

When you start going with these super torque motors and more powerful batteries you will start breaking things and then your toy
becomes a money pit..aluminum this and steel that just equals big money and you have to spend more for a better esc and and a 3s battery
and super hi torque servos to get your performance back..Dont fall into that money trap..Your rig is plenty capable with just a few strategic
mods.

So I leave you with a list of what ive found to be solid upgrades in my opinion and maintain the great performance without breaking the bank.

Move battery to the front (rubicon unlimited)
2s lipo battery ( I use a 4000mah and get well over 1hr of run time.)
17 tooth motor pinion.( reduces overall speed but increases low speed torque)
Axial ripsaw 1.9 tires/stock wheels (amazing traction)
 
Last edited:
the only "must have" upgrade, at least in my mind, are m3 screws going thru the knuckles and into the Chubs. maybe mine was old or they just used scrap parts for another car but the self tappign screws that came in there on my scx-10 (and the ridgecrest I bought rtr) tend to back out alot and can break the chubs and knuckles as well as potentially damage the dog bones.

after that both became extremely reliable trucks. still running mostly stock parts in my ridgecrest, still running what ever parts came in my bucket o parts that became my scx-10. most of it looks stock but it does have annoyingly green links everywhere.
 
6sharky9 said:
Im pretty new to this rock crawling /trail truck scene but now own 2 axial products..the honcho and the rubicon unlimited.

Its recommended to move the battery to the front..Its just not as capable climbing wise as the honcho is with all the weight to the rear.

The second thing ive noticed is the stock maxxis trepador tires just don't have the grip the ripsaw tires have on the honcho...they are taller
but much narrower..On sufaces I play on (grass/dirt/rock) there is no comparison to the ripsaw tires.

One thing ive noticed is the stock 27 turn motor wth a 2s lipo is more than enough power to do anything you want with the truck.
I run a 17 tooth pinion on my stock 27 turn motor and torque is plentiful..It slowed down alittle top speed wise but still gives
good wheel speed to get you through that mud or a running start on a difficult hill.

When you start going with these super torque motors and more powerful batteries you will start breaking things and then your toy
becomes a money pit..aluminum this and steel that just equals big money and you have to spend more for a better esc and and a 3s battery
and super hi torque servos to get your performance back..Dont fall into that money trap..Your rig is plenty capable with just a few strategic
mods.

So I leave you with a list of what ive found to be solid upgrades in my opinion and maintain the great performance without breaking the bank.

Move battery to the front (rubicon unlimited)
2s lipo battery ( I use a 4000mah and get well over 1hr of run time.)
17 tooth motor pinion.( reduces overall speed but increases low speed torque)
Axial ripsaw 1.9 tires/stock wheels (amazing traction)
Click to expand...

Now this is no fun lol. Vanquish everything haha.

Hes right for the most part but if u want it to perform better the stock electronics will need to go. The motor doesnt have the balls to hang and hike real trails all day. They are fun and work great for light use but will last nowhere near a holmes motor and or have the torque and crawlability . I keep an axial as a spare and run the strong stuff. Nothing like getting to the top of a trail on a beautiful weekend and having ur motor take a poop on u.

Lik

Sent from my SHV-E310L using Tapatalk 2
 
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The SCX10 kit now has definitely improved on their plastics. I am in the process of building a third SCX10 this is the JK Rubi version and not only are the stock plastic knuckles, hubs, skid, shock hoops, definitely the aluminum shocks now despite plastic caps!!! And still the same old plastic balls Axials use not too shabby.

I am going to run my OG 1st generation SCX10 front axle with a new underdrive rear axle and do a comparison. This rig will be a budget rig no fancy bells or whistles....or so I say lol.

Must have upgrades you can either do the XR mod, VP VVD's. Axial CVD's, or just stick with doggie bones. All depends on how you drive really. I'd just replace what breaks first and usually its the drivelines or the plastic idler gear.
 
lostinkorea said:
Now this is no fun lol. Vanquish everything haha.

Hes right for the most part but if u want it to perform better the stock electronics will need to go. The motor doesnt have the balls to hang and hike real trails all day. They are fun and work great for light use but will last nowhere near a holmes motor and or have the torque and crawlability . I keep an axial as a spare and run the strong stuff. Nothing like getting to the top of a trail on a beautiful weekend and having ur motor take a poop on u.

Lik

Sent from my SHV-E310L using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Why would the stock esc have to go?...I can see a servo upgrade when the stock one fails and a motor but the stock esc crawls very well at low throttle input even with a stock motor..Ive since built a custom 27t and its even more amazing..You cant go more than a 2s battery with it but why would you need more unless your rig weighs a ton or turns super sized tires???

Ive seen a nearly 100 percent stock honcho out trail and climb some high dollar rigs..the high dollar rig did look good though."thumbsup"

These are mods I did to my rubicon and its very impressive.

Home made Aluminum Lower links and steering links
Removed the rubber stops on the shocks
Moved the shocks to the farthest holes toward the center of the truck
Robinson 17t pinion/ Kimbrough 87t spur
Custom 27t brushed motor
GensAce 4000 mah 2s lipo
Stock honcho wheels and ripsaw tires
Re-located battery to the front like the honcho.

All else stock as of now. (Duplicate of my honcho minus the body)
Next on the list of mods: Universal front axles and shocks..Also relocation of battery and electronics...This should conclude my build :p

My next future project will be a Dingo :P
 
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I agree with most people, just drive it stock and fix as it breaks. Only thing I would get would be a lipo.
 
I bought a Rubicon a couple of days ago and here are my mods so far:

1) Placed battery where ESC was -> ESC moved above the servo
2) Stiffen up steering link with carbon rods
3) Added some lead weight inside the rims of rear wheels -> about 60 gramm per wheel
4) removed the rubber stops on the shocks

So far I am pretty happy with the performance.
 
Yesterday I also installed the 4-Link suspension in the front. All the parts except screws come with the parts tree.

Really like it!

Also I will make some aluminium links soon.

I think there are no "must have upgrades" but everything that improves performance and durability is nice to have.
 
soundmaster said:
I bought a Rubicon a couple of days ago and here are my mods so far:

1) Placed battery where ESC was -> ESC moved above the servo
2) Stiffen up steering link with carbon rods
3) Added some lead weight inside the rims of rear wheels -> about 60 gramm per wheel
4) removed the rubber stops on the shocks

So far I am pretty happy with the performance.
Click to expand...


You Are supposed to add weight to the front tires, not the rear.
 
6sharky9 said:
Why would the stock esc have to go?...I can see a servo upgrade when the stock one fails and a motor but the stock esc crawls very well at low throttle input even with a stock motor..Ive since built a custom 27t and its even more amazing..You cant go more than a 2s battery with it but why would you need more unless your rig weighs a ton or turns super sized tires???

:P
Click to expand...

I had to go 3s / 11 volt for my Vanquish light bar.....

I agree...I am new to the scale scene, but drive almost daily and did two G6s, drive as is....you have a great rig.

My upgrades have been a winch from RC4WD, bead lock rims, vanquish light bar. I did replace the drive shafts with the Axial upgrade because mine were beat pretty bad. Also sand ladders, tow rope, pull pal, and scale items.

The family and I "club spec" in terms that no one of us does a performance up grade unless all of us do the upgrade or at least has the option to....so a $100 for a part cost me $300. Esthetic items are fair game and we are constantly adding for fun, folly, or to meet G6 optional item list.

My next move will be towards water proofing all electronics and moving the battery to the front.
 
I ugraded my scx10 with 2.2 ripsaw tires and it totally changed the look , it went from cool to awesome, also added new aluminum shocks .......relocating the battery to the front was the first thing I did and it made a world of difference
 
Last edited:
soundmaster said:
Yesterday I also installed the 4-Link suspension in the front. All the parts except screws come with the parts tree.

Really like it!

Also I will make some aluminium links soon.

I think there are no "must have upgrades" but everything that improves performance and durability is nice to have.
Click to expand...


I must have missed some parts in my box or they didn't ship them but I looked all over so I could build my unlimited with 4 link in the front. The only parts in there were the upper links. No 4 link truss to be found anywhere on any parts tree. Am I missing something or does the unlimited rubi not have the option supplied with the kit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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