• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Messing with Sasquatch: CFM's Yeti

Well just beat the heck out of the truck again for a little while.
Separated a tire from the wheel
yta8y3us.jpg

The steering was getting noticeably sloppy as well so we pulled it apart and found some plastic bushings in place of bearings. Bearings are going in, in the morning.
5x8x2.5 4 times to rebuild both sides

ry5e2ara.jpg
 
The steering was getting noticeably sloppy as well so we pulled it apart and found some plastic bushings in place of bearings. Bearings are going in, in the morning.
5x8x2.5 4 times to rebuild both sides
Great idea
 
Thanks so much for writing this up like so.

How well would you say this will take general bashing? I can break anything! Just ask my buddies. I have nothing near a U4RC course in my neck of the woods. The closest I have is wooded trails and one lonely SCT course truck. I've heard from other RC'rs that there is a rocky area around though....that said I'm not sure that I will do that much crawling as I'll more likely be going ludicrous speed over rough terrain (much more exciting).

So I guess I'm just asking most of what ya'll are saying (or have said already)..
How durable is it across various terrain? Basically for day to day bashing would this or a stampede be better...
What are the best replacement parts to order with the car? A-arms and driveshafts?
 
Last edited:
So far we have put ten 5000mah 3s lipo packs through it and have not be friendly about it. We haven't had any major failures, nothing the spare parts bag couldn't fix so far. As far as upgrades for it out of the box, well.......just keep up with this thread and follow us on Facebook. We've got many things coming, some aesthetic and others for performance. And one that's just so dang sexy your face will hurt, oh and it's bulletproof also.
 
We figured while the front end was partially apart for the bearing upgrade on the bellcranks, we would swap in our extra diff built with 500k diff fluid. Several people have asked what the options are for the front diff:
Open
500k fluid
Locked
Stock diff on the left and the 500k diff with our new gear grease on the right
asaqyrys.jpg
 
We've also been testing a new light weight lube specifically for CVD and universal joints.
qe2e3y2e.jpg

The front differential side of the center drive shaft features a Wildboar HD CV joint instead of the typical dog bone on both ends leaving the shaft floating between outputs. This should be quieter and more durable.
 
What are those lights you have in the front bumper.


Yes VP Rigid prototypes. They will be a production unit just not sure when. They are stupid bright also. Never seen anything that comes close to them. Max operating voltage is 9.6v and we only run them at 7.4v. Actually powered them off the receiver on the Yeti and they are still brighter than a typical ight bar. They are also a focused beam and tough as nails.
 
We used them earlier this year for a build we did for our buddy from Rigid and wanted to be able to incorporate the brand without being out of place on a semi.
e4umazav.jpg
 
are you guys going to do any water/mud bashing .. I want to see if they are as tuff in creaks as they are on trails
 
Well since we've been running it for a while with the stock setup, it's time to start setting it up how we like.
Started with Method 105 beadlocks w/CFM 1.250" True Cans, CI Deuces Wild foams, R35 BFG tires, .350/.725 SLW hubs
9u6u2ezu.jpg

my9ynyty.jpg
 
Here we go! So glad you are back doing this. You have been absent for a while on RCC, no? Seen a lot of new builds on social, but not here. I also could be mistaken, and just missed them.

Anyways, I wonder if one could chop that spare tire mount, to get it lower on the frame... It kind of sits pretty high...

Can't wait to get mine..
 
Here we go! So glad you are back doing this. You have been absent for a while on RCC, no? Seen a lot of new builds on social, but not here. I also could be mistaken, and just missed them.

Anyways, I wonder if one could chop that spare tire mount, to get it lower on the frame... It kind of sits pretty high...

Can't wait to get mine..


Just don't have time I forum browse and post with running a business full time now. Planning to hire someone to handle this stuff for me so we stay active here as well.
The spare tire mount can't be modified but an aftermarket version could be made.
It sits the way it does for sway bar clearance at full bump.
The spare is mounted on a stock Method wheel which is .750 wide. There is room for an 1.25" wide wheel to be used and still clear.
If only using a narrow wheel, you could make a lower mount and still clear the sway bar.
 
Just don't have time I forum browse and post with running a business full time now. Planning to hire someone to handle this stuff for me so we stay active here as well.
The spare tire mount can't be modified but an aftermarket version could be made.
It sits the way it does for sway bar clearance at full bump.
The spare is mounted on a stock Method wheel which is .750 wide. There is room for an 1.25" wide wheel to be used and still clear.
If only using a narrow wheel, you could make a lower mount and still clear the sway bar.

Thanks for the quick, detailed response.

I am sure we will all figure something out as time goes on!
 
With those hubs how close to stock width are you? I've seen some other kick around .225 and .600 I believe to bring it in a half inch or so.
 
Not sure. The difference between the stock hubs front and rear is just over .500" per side front to back. I don't have any .225 at the moment to swap in and check clearance with the 1.250" true cans. It will be close.
 
Back
Top