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Goldwings Yeti

goldwing

Rock Stacker
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
73
Location
Beaver Falls Pa
Time to start a new build



Had these aluminum beadlock wheels for years nad never uesd them, I'm going to try them out on the Yeti



I'm very happy with the Currie! But not so much with the front diff, The 2.5 e-clips were to big to snap on the output shaft and made out of bubble gum steel, New smaller ones fixed that.
I got a GCM diff upgrade, I could not press the 2 o-rings and the spider gear hard enough to snap the e-clip in the groove, I made the inside o-ring groove .018" deeper, After that it spun as smooth as the bevel gear side output.





 
Working on the front end, made some aluminum sleeves to help out the hinge pins, don't know if it helps??


The wheels are not made for a yeti, with the middle size hub I had to bevel inside of wheel to clear knuckle arm, 12 1/2" out to out of tires??



This is all the chamber I can get with the 94mm axle sets, they seem to long? I moved the turnbuckle up a hole to get that

 
I dont have them on mine, but some people do it so the front axles dont bend on the front diff out drive cups.
 
I'm only limiting about 1/8" of travel, so it's not so hard on the shocks, Some say you can pull the plastic parts on the shock apart??
 
Did anyone that got a Holmes Pro BL 540XL have a problem with it being to long to fit the Yeti, Mine did not fit with the sensor wire pluged in! I made a new motor plate, .050" thinner on the motor side, and ground off .065" from battery tray, .115" overall is all I could get,but it was just enough to fit the motor in.



 
I'm only limiting about 1/8" of travel, so it's not so hard on the shocks, Some say you can pull the plastic parts on the shock apart??
I suppose it's not impossible, but it's extremely unlikely if you have enough damping. If you want to have minimal damping and still want to protect the shocks from gutting themselves when they top-out, you could put a spare O-ring under the shock piston, to absorb the impact when the shock tops-out.
 
I suppose it's not impossible, but it's extremely unlikely if you have enough damping. If you want to have minimal damping and still want to protect the shocks from gutting themselves when they top-out, you could put a spare O-ring under the shock piston, to absorb the impact when the shock tops-out.


Geez, that's way too practical & "vanilla", lol.
Everyone knows all the cool kids use limiting straps on their Yeti.
 
IIRC, GCM says not to use the the inner O-ring. I only used one on my Exo and haven't had any issues. I haven't made the change to the Yeti yet.
 
Very busy the last month, But I thought I would finish out this build thread, It took some doing to get the suspension dialed in, This rig is front heavy and you have to learn how to jump it. The clubs first run is on Jesterspec's track this weekend.







 
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