SCREAMER's F-Bomber

[SCREAMER]

I'm calling it F-Bomber because that 4 letter expletive is usually what I hear after I reply to the frequently asked question, "how much money you got in this?". It starts with a box on the doorstep and a pile of pre purchased upgrades in anticipation of its arrival. Here's my list and plans.

Holmes 2200kv Puller Pro 4 pole
MMP and BEC
Built Curries front and centered rear with Yeti MIP rear
ProLine beadlocks with TSL XLs
Hitec 7954sh at 7.4 volts
DX4C and SR410
UC Fab 7075 trailing arms from Dlux
VP Ti links
Axial machined HD motor mount
VP lockers, VVDs, and axial HD 43/13 rear and 38/13 front
Robinson Gen 3 slipper

Future plans are to swap the above wheels and tires with some blue VP methods that are waiting for a widening kit so I don't have to pinch on the set of Falken Wildpeaks I plan to run with CI DD foams.

Also plan to run ProlLine's new 5 inch Powerstroke in the rear as soon as it becomes available and probably go with some Traxxas big bores in the front and rear since they are the best shock I've ran and fit Axial springs like a glove. Also looking for the first VP sway bar I can get my hands on.

We'll see where it goes from here but I know I've got a really good start on upgrades and a lot of work (fun) to do so time for me to get started. Many pics coming.

 

[Shadow Crawlers]

Can't wait to see how it looks with the TSL SX XL tires!

 

[SCREAMER]

Ok first thing I learned was I very much need a power screwdriver. I'm glad it's all machine screws now though. So far I've just removed the spare and mount from the chassis and pulled the chassis off to access everything. The stock tires feel great, sticky and pretty soft. I had forgot how flexible the stock links and steering were. Funny but durable I'm sure. You can't break it if it can be tied into a knot I guess. More coming.

 

[professorcake]

Looks like the F-Bomber is off to a good start. No self tappers at all in the bomber?

Im running the same power system in my wraith (well the stubby version of the 2200 motor) and it has impressed me all around, you going to be running 4 cell lipos?

My wrist starts to bother me after wrenching for a while so I use a power driver for certain tasks and longer hardware (always finish tightening by hand of course).

 

[SCREAMER]

There are few self tappers here and there but in low stress areas like the receiver box lid and the body panels. I'll be running 3s for crawling and 4s for trailing. My 3500kv puller pro was just too quick for my purposes so I'm looking for more control and versatility out of this 2200 motor. Yeah I'll just use the power screwdriver for removal. I'll pick one of those up tomorrow since I'm still waiting for my rear MIP and slipper spur to show up.

This is a pic of how little space there is in the receiver box for the receiver but it's good and on its side will ensure the JST connectors don't come loose. That actually happened to me once before so I'm always trying to make sure I've got something holding them in, usually the wires themselves.

 

[maslin]

I found it to be small as well. It's packed with a 4 channel spektrum receiver, bec bypass and some wires tucked in.

 

[bilinvic]

Good list of parts... sub'd.

 

[SCREAMER]

Here's my quick tip for the day. Replace all of your 2x10mm pins with 2x11mm. Axles are the main places as well as the top shaft on the Wraith/SCX style trans. I haven't found a place yet where the 2x11mm was too long so a bit more strength and as you can see, a lot more engagement in whatever it's filling. This is a VP clamping hub but the longer pin also fills more of the stock set screw hex.

 

[SCREAMER]

The next upgrade had to be the motor mount and adjustment plate. Not a cheap part but very well machined, fit perfect, and IMO necessary if you're going with big power. A Holmes puller pro is big power on 3 and 4s. On a side note, this is my first time dealing with the Yeti style trans and I really like it. Setting the pinion and spur mesh will be a breeze and stay put with this design. Here's the comparison shot.

 

[SCREAMER]

This is as far as I can make it tonight. Motor and all electronics are mounted up along with the rear axle and links and trailing arms. Still waiting for the Spur and rear MIP to get to me then I can start full reassembly. I went ahead and used the stock driveshaft to get my pinion angle set and it was clear that centered rear requires a MIP style shaft. I'll get the front axle and servo mounted tomorrow. Stay tuned.

 

[bilinvic]

What size (T) spur are you going with?

 

[SCREAMER]

The stock 64. For the Robinson Gen 3 slipper it's either that or 56 and that sounds way too low to me. Axial makes a 60 but I'm not sure what material it is and I wanted a beefier spur.

 

[svt923]

I have the 56T RRP slipper on my Yeti and I think I'm going to do the same for my RR10. Figure the 56T is lighter being physically smaller which is good for rotating weight and dropping 2 teeth on the pinion gets you back to pretty much the same place as using the 64T.

Another good tip is replacing the 2 M4 cap head screws that hold the motor mount down with button head screws so you can use a 2.5mm driver. Makes life a little easier not having to carry around a 3mm wrench just for 2 screws on the car.

 

[CamaroTom]

Nice work so far. The Robinson slipper and Axial motor mount were 2 of my favorite upgrades to my Yeti.

On the motor mount you can flip the part that screws into the motor which will drop the motor a few mm.

 

[SCREAMER]

Ok here's how she sits now. I got the front axle on, servo mounted and drag link adjusted. I was also able to get my pinion angle set but the stock driveshaft pieces are way too short so I'll have to mix and match to get more engagement. The center spline almost falls out at full droop. Weird. Still waiting on parts.

 

[bilinvic]

I can't recall if you mentioned if you were going to use the RC Bros knuckle weights or not, but just an FYI, they don't work on the Vanquish scale knuckles, only the regular VP knuckles.

 

[Brandon]

Looks like you flipped your front link mounts (compared to the stock orientation). This made your WB longer up front? You might have clearance issues with the servo on the frame/bumper now.

Should have just left it alone... :mrgreen:

 

[bilinvic]

If you do have servo clearance issues, reverse the RR10 servo mount and bolt the servo to the backside....like I did.

 

[SCREAMER]

VP flipped those link mounts for me when they designed the Currie. The left side can only mount one way and the right side has to match.

No plans to run knuckle weights on the bomber so I chose scale hubs and knuckles. After removing the stock servo mount from the stock axle I knew there was no way I would run it. It's more flexible than SCX10 plastic links. It won't even break, it'll just tear.

My MIP just showed up as I was typing so I'm gonna get this thing installed. Then I'm only waiting on my spur and I can button her up.

 

[bilinvic]

I agree, the stock servo mount doesn't feel all that stout! I didn't want to run it either, but I couldn't get my servo located more rearward with the regular Wraith plate. Time will tell, plus there's a spare in the part's bag. I'm sure the aftermarket will have a replacement soon.