I am running the SSD 2 speed with a MMP/Tekin Pro4 3300kv combination. The pinion is a 14 tooth with a Robinson 64 tooth slipper, and I am using the 13/43 underdrive diff gears front and rear. The 14 tooth still allows for a very low speed easily controlled crawl, really low speed at that. Initially I was using an 11 tooth pinion but it would wind out quick, even in second gear. The 14 tooth will really run in high gear, but as I said it will slow down to.... well a crawl in low. I am extremely happy that I put it in, so far it has been a lot of fun and at least in my opinion has added to the capability of the Bomber. I am very happy with it!
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RR10 2-speed
- Thread starter Jus
- Start date
Here is a couple pics of the servo install.
I finally installed my Axial 2 speed kit in the Bomber tonight, looks like this picture. My shift linkage looks to be way too long when the ends are 13.5mm apart like Axial recommends in the manual. This picture shows me that I am correct in assuming it will work with the linkage just screwed all the way in. I was contemplating on building a shorter linkage before I remembered this thread.
For those looking at adding this, the Axial kit includes both 26T and 28T gears for the high speed. The stock gears in the trans are also 26T and 28T. Running the 28T new gear and the 26T factory gear will keep the top speed the same as the stock ratio, which I opted to do since it should have plenty of speed on 3s with brushless. If it is too slow in high with the 43/13 gears I am installing tomorrow I will swap for the faster gear. I am shooting for about 20 mph for the top speed.
Last edited:
hotrodsoup
Quarry Creeper
Anyone have a running video showing the difference in low verse high gear?
Thanks
Thanks
bigmisan
Newbie
Hi,
Flysky GT3B/C have this option for more channels.
Originaly, it is 3 channel, but with alternative firmware, it is 8 channel.
I like it...
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
So I finally installed the SSD 2 speed kit in my Bomber, but for other reasons it still hasn't left the bench. I tend to be a little OCD, but though others might find the following helpful. This is not intended to slam SSD in any way, I suspect they are limited by the tolerances that Axial plastic is held to. I picked the SSD over the Axial because it offered a wider gap between the ratios, but the lower cost was also a plus.
Noticed the SSD lower shaft relies on a hex shape to transfer power from the lower gears through the shift color to the output shaft. The (pretend) engineer in me thinks that the Axial splined variety might be a better design since the splines offer more contact area and better "self-centering" of the shift color on the output shaft. Also the little E-clip holding the shift fork to the shift shaft makes me nervous. Even the fact they included an extra doesn't make me feel better when I consider what happens when/if the little clip jumps off of the shaft and into the gears.
Maybe it's not an issue and I'm overthinking it? Maybe it could benefit from a homemade shift shaft that was threaded for a nut to secure the also-homemade metal shift fork to the shaft...
I could not stand how loose the shift shaft was in the trans housing. I ended up making a "sleeve" out of some brass-looking servo mounting hats and using the inner race from a 5x11 bearing to center the shift sleeve up to the circular protrusion on the trans housing surrounding the hole for the shift shaft. Added some superglue and wala, easily 50% less wiggle in the shift shaft while it still sliding easily. Had to try several servo brands to find the little "tophat" that fit snuggly around the shift shaft, and snuggly inside the bearing race with a little sanding. Now if I could only remember the winning brand...
It also bugged me that while if you pushed the shift shaft all the way in against it's stop the trans was smooth. But if you pulled it to far out it overtravels the shift fork and it cock-eyes the shift collar=bad. I know servo EPA should prevent that, but I had to install about .7mm worth of 3x4.5 shim to the inside of the shift shaft so it stopped before pulling excessively on the shift fork.
Also worth noting, I discovered you can double up the trans front input bearing. Turns out a 5x10x4 will fit behind the slipper on the outside of the case. Something like a 5x7x2mm (don't quote me on width, always wiggle test yourself) shim between it and the inner slipper plate to retain the bearing and life is good.
A 5x8 bearing fits super snugly into the transfer case front output on the outside of the case. I think I'm going to replace it with a bushing though since I don't really trust those pesky 5x8's. I'll look at the bushing as extra support/backup for the regular output bearings. It should also keep crud out of the output bearing.
The rear output can be sealed with a regular blue Traxxas shock "X-ring" installed on the output before the driveshaft. It must be stretched over the shaft, but fills the gap cleanly.
I'm paranoid the cut edges of the slipper clutch spring is going to dig into the backside of the nut during some stupid insane reverse bind and unthread it, so I put washers above and below the spring to reduce the odds of that happening.
I wasn't digging the short link and extreme angles of the stock servo mount, which led to the servo moving to standing up inside the stock electronics box and the battery moving to the RS rocker with a home-made tray, and the receiver/esc/bec relocated on the left rocker. This allowed much more mellow angles for the shift linkage and the battery is now much lower. But, there's no free lunch because now the RS body panel must be removed for battery changes.
Noticed the SSD lower shaft relies on a hex shape to transfer power from the lower gears through the shift color to the output shaft. The (pretend) engineer in me thinks that the Axial splined variety might be a better design since the splines offer more contact area and better "self-centering" of the shift color on the output shaft. Also the little E-clip holding the shift fork to the shift shaft makes me nervous. Even the fact they included an extra doesn't make me feel better when I consider what happens when/if the little clip jumps off of the shaft and into the gears.
Maybe it's not an issue and I'm overthinking it? Maybe it could benefit from a homemade shift shaft that was threaded for a nut to secure the also-homemade metal shift fork to the shaft...
I could not stand how loose the shift shaft was in the trans housing. I ended up making a "sleeve" out of some brass-looking servo mounting hats and using the inner race from a 5x11 bearing to center the shift sleeve up to the circular protrusion on the trans housing surrounding the hole for the shift shaft. Added some superglue and wala, easily 50% less wiggle in the shift shaft while it still sliding easily. Had to try several servo brands to find the little "tophat" that fit snuggly around the shift shaft, and snuggly inside the bearing race with a little sanding. Now if I could only remember the winning brand...
It also bugged me that while if you pushed the shift shaft all the way in against it's stop the trans was smooth. But if you pulled it to far out it overtravels the shift fork and it cock-eyes the shift collar=bad. I know servo EPA should prevent that, but I had to install about .7mm worth of 3x4.5 shim to the inside of the shift shaft so it stopped before pulling excessively on the shift fork.
Also worth noting, I discovered you can double up the trans front input bearing. Turns out a 5x10x4 will fit behind the slipper on the outside of the case. Something like a 5x7x2mm (don't quote me on width, always wiggle test yourself) shim between it and the inner slipper plate to retain the bearing and life is good.
A 5x8 bearing fits super snugly into the transfer case front output on the outside of the case. I think I'm going to replace it with a bushing though since I don't really trust those pesky 5x8's. I'll look at the bushing as extra support/backup for the regular output bearings. It should also keep crud out of the output bearing.
The rear output can be sealed with a regular blue Traxxas shock "X-ring" installed on the output before the driveshaft. It must be stretched over the shaft, but fills the gap cleanly.
I'm paranoid the cut edges of the slipper clutch spring is going to dig into the backside of the nut during some stupid insane reverse bind and unthread it, so I put washers above and below the spring to reduce the odds of that happening.
I wasn't digging the short link and extreme angles of the stock servo mount, which led to the servo moving to standing up inside the stock electronics box and the battery moving to the RS rocker with a home-made tray, and the receiver/esc/bec relocated on the left rocker. This allowed much more mellow angles for the shift linkage and the battery is now much lower. But, there's no free lunch because now the RS body panel must be removed for battery changes.
xmikedentx
Rock Stacker
Thanks for the info meat monkey. Got any pics of how your setup now resides? I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the 2 speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
fr8cture
I wanna be Dave
:shock: woah meat monkey. I run SSDs 2 speed in my yeti without trying to snug anything up and no issues. I even bent a front driveshaft and it's fine.
JesterSpec
RCC Addict
I've installed 3 of these with no issue. I had fun getting the linkage just right, but nothing else. You way over thought the process.
Sent from the future.
Sent from the future.
KofXR
Newbie
Clarifying because I just did some research on the subject:
Axial.
Low gear-2:1
High gear-1.08:1
or
High gear-0.93:1
SSD.
Low gear-2.34:1
High gear-1:1
Axial.
Low gear-2:1
High gear-1.08:1
or
High gear-0.93:1
SSD.
Low gear-2.34:1
High gear-1:1
calvet
Newbie
So, I guess I'm different, I bought a Hot Racing gear set for my Yeti but now think it would be more useful in the RR10. The ratios are:
1st gear 2.48:1
2nd gear 1.08:1
I am using the std. bomber gearing now and need to drop the pinion gear to a 10 or 11 tooth to keep it cool on hot days. Is it worth installing? Any do's or dont's ?
Thanks,
Glenn
1st gear 2.48:1
2nd gear 1.08:1
I am using the std. bomber gearing now and need to drop the pinion gear to a 10 or 11 tooth to keep it cool on hot days. Is it worth installing? Any do's or dont's ?
Thanks,
Glenn
KofXR
Newbie
I just finished installing my Axial 2 speed transmission, I kept going back and forth about which 2 speed to put in, I really liked the lower 2.34:1 of the SSD but the Axial squeaked by in the decision...
here is what I learned in the installation hoping it will help someone else down the road.
The instructions are for the Yeti, I watched some youtube videos in trying to help me decide which 2 speed to buy, I learned a few things that helped me out there.
such as you need to use the servo mount from your RR10 spare parts bag not the one in the 2 speed kit.
also (the way I read it) the bearings to use per 26T and 28T are switched on the instructions.
there aren't enough screws to complete the installation, I had to dig one up for the servo mount.
when assembling the linkage the metal rod is a turn buckle, one is right hand thread the other side is left hand thread.
the instructions have the wrong sequence for assembly of the servo saver,(they have the spring mounting in between the saver ramps ).
there was some small metal flashing on the metal gears and slider that needs to be removed before using.
I was worrying about what grease to use but when I opened the transmission up I saw there was plenty of extra grease stuck to the sides of the case and had enough to lube everything with extra left over.
when setting up the end points on the 3rd channel leave the servo saver screw all the way loose or disconnect the linkage or servo arm so it doesn't bind when you go into program mode.(it goes to a default position).
If the transmitter accidentally gets turned off before the car the servo will go to it's default position and automatically kicks to low gear or If it's in low gear will kick a couple millimeters extra which can bind the linkage so when setting your end points be sure to adjust for that, I tried to set the arm close to the default position and go from there but it was still a bit off, I might be able fine tune this with some linkage adjustment? but shouldn't be a problem as long as I always turn the rig off first.
here is what I learned in the installation hoping it will help someone else down the road.
The instructions are for the Yeti, I watched some youtube videos in trying to help me decide which 2 speed to buy, I learned a few things that helped me out there.
such as you need to use the servo mount from your RR10 spare parts bag not the one in the 2 speed kit.
also (the way I read it) the bearings to use per 26T and 28T are switched on the instructions.
there aren't enough screws to complete the installation, I had to dig one up for the servo mount.
when assembling the linkage the metal rod is a turn buckle, one is right hand thread the other side is left hand thread.
the instructions have the wrong sequence for assembly of the servo saver,(they have the spring mounting in between the saver ramps ).
there was some small metal flashing on the metal gears and slider that needs to be removed before using.
I was worrying about what grease to use but when I opened the transmission up I saw there was plenty of extra grease stuck to the sides of the case and had enough to lube everything with extra left over.
when setting up the end points on the 3rd channel leave the servo saver screw all the way loose or disconnect the linkage or servo arm so it doesn't bind when you go into program mode.(it goes to a default position).
If the transmitter accidentally gets turned off before the car the servo will go to it's default position and automatically kicks to low gear or If it's in low gear will kick a couple millimeters extra which can bind the linkage so when setting your end points be sure to adjust for that, I tried to set the arm close to the default position and go from there but it was still a bit off, I might be able fine tune this with some linkage adjustment? but shouldn't be a problem as long as I always turn the rig off first.
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adonis_mp
Newbie
I'm still a little confused with what's out there.
When you guys mention the Axial 2 speed, it's the stock with the 2 speed kit? This is the one I have now and I'm a little concerned with how rough it sounds when shifting. I opened it up and some of the gears seem like they are worned down after little use.
SSD 2 speed is the yeti aluminum or another one?
Has anyone tried the RC4W 2 speed on the bomber, I belive there's a plate some were to make it work?
Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
When you guys mention the Axial 2 speed, it's the stock with the 2 speed kit? This is the one I have now and I'm a little concerned with how rough it sounds when shifting. I opened it up and some of the gears seem like they are worned down after little use.
SSD 2 speed is the yeti aluminum or another one?
Has anyone tried the RC4W 2 speed on the bomber, I belive there's a plate some were to make it work?
Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
Yes the SSD Yeti 2 Speed is the same one that fits the Bomber: 2 SPEED TRANSMISSION CONVERSION KIT FOR YETI
DMG make a plate to fit Wraith transmissions to the Bomber: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles-trannys-t-case/551029-wraith-bomber-trans-adapter-plate.html
SSD has a Wraith 2 speed upgrade kit that is compatible with the Axial top shaft and gear cover: 2 Speed Transmission Kit for Wraith
DMG make a plate to fit Wraith transmissions to the Bomber: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles-trannys-t-case/551029-wraith-bomber-trans-adapter-plate.html
SSD has a Wraith 2 speed upgrade kit that is compatible with the Axial top shaft and gear cover: 2 Speed Transmission Kit for Wraith
akatz
Pebble Pounder
Bought a bomber that has the HR 2sp in it and I hate it, not consistent at all and it takes a lot of force to engage unless the gears are aligned right, not sure if that's normal but the shift mechanism on my tf2 2sp is smooth as butter. Will be buying your kit before I ruin my shift servo.
KofXR
Newbie
My apology SSD,I should have went with your kit...I should have done more research,shoulda coulda...
raul shabinguez
Quarry Creeper
I guess id have to drive a bomber with a 2 speed already in it, cause I don't understand the need for it. With a good brushless system it seems unnecessary.
I'm using a MMP pro4hd combo on 3S with stock gearing and its fast and can still creep very well. Id imagine if throttle control is a problem, then maybe a 2 speed would be worth it. Or if you are trying to get yeti track speeds. 20mph is fast enough for me....that's a guesstimate.
Any tips on improving the shifting with the SSD? Mine only engages when it wants even with appropriate end points. The fork seems to bind on the plastic post if the tierod doesn't move just right.
I already tried sleeving the tierod port with a servo mount bushing but then it bound on the bushing.
I already tried sleeving the tierod port with a servo mount bushing but then it bound on the bushing.
High Angle Five
Newbie
Hey guys I'm still doing all the research i can on the two speed trannys. Im running a HH 30T brushed setup in my bomber with 2s 20c batteries. Does anyone know the neighborhood speed gain i would get with adding the 2 speed tranny?
