BarHarborBasher
RCC Addict
Glad to hear after the labor pains go away you'll have yourself a healthy reliable basher. I think it's a phase that we all go through...lol ...at times I hated mine !! but it's grown into a love affair..
The XL is in a class of its own. It has the scaled realism that no other manufacturer can compete with...
The XL's power to weight ratio separates it far from an
XMAXX.. and competes with the fastest bashers on the block...
And to top it all off it's one of the only 8th scale rigs that can be set up for scaled crawling...
It's a versatile machine guys....
So here's a small list of what it takes to make this a reliable basher
1 - if you have a ready to run or kit version that was issued with a HD gear have it modified !!
The Dhawk (version 2) bulkhead is the only housing that will accept an HD gear WITHOUT A MOD (BTW in not yelling lol)
If you purchased an HD gear as an upgrade it needs modification as well...
2- 140mm limiting straps !!! This is one of the best upgrades you can do for your XL... limiting straps prevent over extension of your drivetrain components that caused a domino effect of broken parts.
I experienced this the hard way over extending my shock which in turn broke my lower arm which led to destroying a CVD and output... ya ... they work and they cost about 6$ a set...
3- doing the drive shaft mod... this modification includes tapping the inside of the drive shaft with a 5/16 x 2" threaded setscrew... the stock driveshaft is tuff as hell after this mod !! Thanks Capwn
4- Replacement of the batwing (front clip) AX31048...
This is a horrible design... Two reasons... the alignment of the holes is off and the 4 screws that hold the bottom skid plate (front end assembly) exert too much force and cause the screws to strip out of the plastic studs... I've designed a bar that attaches to the skid plate into the tub assembly so the top clip isn't needed during assembly of the front end... no more clam shell assembly because that's a pain in the ass!!!
I haven't had the opportunity to try out a aluminum front clip but I'm sure it's a complete Game Changer but it still has that pain-in-the-ass design...lol
5- eliminating the 8 mm RTR wheel nuts and hub assemblies.... I've used version 1 and version 2 and they both fail regardless of blue Loctite... the best alternative for swapping over to the kit is by purchasing my competitors HR hub adapter kit.. (beware because they have two versions one for the RTR and one for the KIT)
The design has a interlocking wheel web plate that prevents wheel stripping, converts to a 17 mm. wheel nut and uses a pin instead of a AX31232 screw shaft... !!! Trust me they break on 6s...
Unfortunately I bought RTR replacements before I figured out the difference between the kit and the RTR design..
Hindsight I would have sold my RTR hubs/hexes and Axle shafts and purchase the KIT assembly...then bought the HR KIT hub adapters...
The HR adapters also increase the width of the XL
RTR + 10mm total. The kit version 16mm wider.. helps for 40series wheel clearance as well..
6- venting your differential cup during assembly.. think of the diff cup as a hydraulic cylinder. After the fluid is in the cup in the ring gear is screwed down it causes internal pleasure.. enough to break two screws on separate occasions... also causing the diff fluid to get forced out of my differential by the pressure breaking the seal... so whenever you're tightening the screws up on your ring gear turn your differential so you're set screw (AXA291) is facing up and releases the pressure...
I suggest fingertight on the ring gear screws then open port and let the air/fluid escape..then tighten set screw..
7- reinforcing your Shock Tower.... I used random steering links to connect the top of my tower to the base of the front clip.... do the work ??? Enough so I broke a metal turnbuckle rod... better than a explosion form loosing a shock tower and the aftermath...
8- adding washers or a horizontal bar to retain your front shocks !! I use a bar... but a adjustable link works as well..I feel like it serves 2 purposes... retaining the shock and structural integrity to the plastic shock tower..
9- IF you have a RTR replace the upper arm and steering links with adjustable links...AFTER you wear out the stock ones...
10- check to see how smoothly your transmission operates I've noticed the screw under the slipper shaft causes binding when it's snug... I turn my slipper shaft while I'm tightening my transmission bolts looking for any kind of drag...and if your interested in modifications check out my YouTube page..
11- l do not use grease anywhere i come in contact with dirt !!! A little finger grease during assembly is about far as I go !!! Grease attracts and captures dirt... within no time you'll have a ultimate abrasive!!! Good bye bearings /CVDs/WB joints... The spinning of the drivetrain repells dirt..don't attract it...
12- the plastic center link/control link / steering rack (AX31025) Is a complete joke...this part is a must upgrade!!! I'm not totally convinced that the aluminum Bell crank is necessary but the link is!!
13- Rear Traction Bar... how could this be so far down on the list maybe cuz it's not in order LOL this also is a must!!!
The torque twist experience gets old after the third day
14- replacing your crappy stock bearings... if you're going to spend your money on the bearings start with what component spins the fastest.... transmission first, pinions, differential bearings... I tend to use cheep ones on the hubs because they are visible...and easily replaceable..
15- 200 oz plus steering servo
16- make a boot to protect your rear axle pinion bearings... they will thank-you!! Check out Pro Mod Steve's boot thread !
And guys... You don't have to buy expensive parts to get to perform...I've had pretty good luck with the motor mount...for how much I change pinions.. and the stock axle and bulkhead are suitable for 6s after the HD mod..
So... hopefully this helps... it's my 3 try ... my computer erasers my work after I tried to load it... frustrating to say the least!!! But with all of the support from the community I feel like it's my brotherley duty
Thanks again for the kind words!
The XL is in a class of its own. It has the scaled realism that no other manufacturer can compete with...
The XL's power to weight ratio separates it far from an
XMAXX.. and competes with the fastest bashers on the block...
And to top it all off it's one of the only 8th scale rigs that can be set up for scaled crawling...
It's a versatile machine guys....
So here's a small list of what it takes to make this a reliable basher
1 - if you have a ready to run or kit version that was issued with a HD gear have it modified !!
The Dhawk (version 2) bulkhead is the only housing that will accept an HD gear WITHOUT A MOD (BTW in not yelling lol)
If you purchased an HD gear as an upgrade it needs modification as well...
2- 140mm limiting straps !!! This is one of the best upgrades you can do for your XL... limiting straps prevent over extension of your drivetrain components that caused a domino effect of broken parts.
I experienced this the hard way over extending my shock which in turn broke my lower arm which led to destroying a CVD and output... ya ... they work and they cost about 6$ a set...
3- doing the drive shaft mod... this modification includes tapping the inside of the drive shaft with a 5/16 x 2" threaded setscrew... the stock driveshaft is tuff as hell after this mod !! Thanks Capwn
4- Replacement of the batwing (front clip) AX31048...
This is a horrible design... Two reasons... the alignment of the holes is off and the 4 screws that hold the bottom skid plate (front end assembly) exert too much force and cause the screws to strip out of the plastic studs... I've designed a bar that attaches to the skid plate into the tub assembly so the top clip isn't needed during assembly of the front end... no more clam shell assembly because that's a pain in the ass!!!
I haven't had the opportunity to try out a aluminum front clip but I'm sure it's a complete Game Changer but it still has that pain-in-the-ass design...lol
5- eliminating the 8 mm RTR wheel nuts and hub assemblies.... I've used version 1 and version 2 and they both fail regardless of blue Loctite... the best alternative for swapping over to the kit is by purchasing my competitors HR hub adapter kit.. (beware because they have two versions one for the RTR and one for the KIT)
The design has a interlocking wheel web plate that prevents wheel stripping, converts to a 17 mm. wheel nut and uses a pin instead of a AX31232 screw shaft... !!! Trust me they break on 6s...
Unfortunately I bought RTR replacements before I figured out the difference between the kit and the RTR design..
Hindsight I would have sold my RTR hubs/hexes and Axle shafts and purchase the KIT assembly...then bought the HR KIT hub adapters...
The HR adapters also increase the width of the XL
RTR + 10mm total. The kit version 16mm wider.. helps for 40series wheel clearance as well..
6- venting your differential cup during assembly.. think of the diff cup as a hydraulic cylinder. After the fluid is in the cup in the ring gear is screwed down it causes internal pleasure.. enough to break two screws on separate occasions... also causing the diff fluid to get forced out of my differential by the pressure breaking the seal... so whenever you're tightening the screws up on your ring gear turn your differential so you're set screw (AXA291) is facing up and releases the pressure...
I suggest fingertight on the ring gear screws then open port and let the air/fluid escape..then tighten set screw..
7- reinforcing your Shock Tower.... I used random steering links to connect the top of my tower to the base of the front clip.... do the work ??? Enough so I broke a metal turnbuckle rod... better than a explosion form loosing a shock tower and the aftermath...
8- adding washers or a horizontal bar to retain your front shocks !! I use a bar... but a adjustable link works as well..I feel like it serves 2 purposes... retaining the shock and structural integrity to the plastic shock tower..
9- IF you have a RTR replace the upper arm and steering links with adjustable links...AFTER you wear out the stock ones...
10- check to see how smoothly your transmission operates I've noticed the screw under the slipper shaft causes binding when it's snug... I turn my slipper shaft while I'm tightening my transmission bolts looking for any kind of drag...and if your interested in modifications check out my YouTube page..
11- l do not use grease anywhere i come in contact with dirt !!! A little finger grease during assembly is about far as I go !!! Grease attracts and captures dirt... within no time you'll have a ultimate abrasive!!! Good bye bearings /CVDs/WB joints... The spinning of the drivetrain repells dirt..don't attract it...
12- the plastic center link/control link / steering rack (AX31025) Is a complete joke...this part is a must upgrade!!! I'm not totally convinced that the aluminum Bell crank is necessary but the link is!!
13- Rear Traction Bar... how could this be so far down on the list maybe cuz it's not in order LOL this also is a must!!!
The torque twist experience gets old after the third day
14- replacing your crappy stock bearings... if you're going to spend your money on the bearings start with what component spins the fastest.... transmission first, pinions, differential bearings... I tend to use cheep ones on the hubs because they are visible...and easily replaceable..
15- 200 oz plus steering servo
16- make a boot to protect your rear axle pinion bearings... they will thank-you!! Check out Pro Mod Steve's boot thread !
And guys... You don't have to buy expensive parts to get to perform...I've had pretty good luck with the motor mount...for how much I change pinions.. and the stock axle and bulkhead are suitable for 6s after the HD mod..
So... hopefully this helps... it's my 3 try ... my computer erasers my work after I tried to load it... frustrating to say the least!!! But with all of the support from the community I feel like it's my brotherley duty
Thanks again for the kind words!