Chassis brace

[crazee horse]

Anybody made a chassis brace for the venture? I'm. Looking to remove my battery tray and want a brace to go between the shock towers. I was hoping to do this with threaded rod but this would mean fat nuts either side which may get in the way of the shock towers. I've seen the 3d printed stuff but wanted a simpler idea. Thanks for any replies

 

[jason02ws6]

Pretty certain all your options are going to be 3D printed but it’s been a while since I’ve looked for one. I opted to get the Bowhouse RC battery tray with brace.


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[R2j]

I made some from 5/16" Delrin on both of my rigs.

 

[QuesoDelDiablo]

I made one, PM me your email and I can send an STL if you have access to a printer.

 

[crazee horse]

I made one, PM me your email and I can send an STL if you have access to a printer.

Thanks mate but I don't have access

 

[crazee horse]

I bought some 3mm threaded rod and sleeve today but along with nuts it looks a bit messy and in the way of the shocks.

 

[crazee horse]

Just ordered some delrin rod. Man that's expensive!

 

[R2j]

Just ordered some delrin rod. Man that's expensive!

It's very useful, I also build links with it. I get a 4' long by 5/16" diameter rod for around $5.50ea., here in the US.

For links I use 4mm by 16mm grub screws and Traxxas Revo rod ends, or Jato when needed.

 

[jason02ws6]

It's very useful, I also build links with it. I get a 4' long by 5/16" diameter rod for around $5.50ea., here in the US.



For links I use 4mm by 16mm grub screws and Traxxas Revo rod ends, or Jato when needed.

View attachment 386648

How does it hold up over time? I know it’s splitting hairs but wouldn’t the weight benefit be better if the lower links were metal and the uppers delrin?


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[R2j]

How does it hold up over time? I know it’s splitting hairs but wouldn’t the weight benefit be better if the lower links were metal and the uppers delrin?


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It holds up quite well and has a much better slip quality than aluminum or other plastics and is easy to replace when needed. Weight isn't too much of a concern for me with links, I add my weight in or on the axles since we have all brass options that are available these days. It also depends on the build, the one pictured is a light weight Class2 rig and the uppers are 3/16" stainless. Most of the time I run 1/4" stainless lower links. The Delrin goes back to my comp crawler days, so still like to use them once and awhile. "thumbsup"

 

[GA Dawg]

Where are you buying it?

 

[R2j]

Where are you buying it?

I get it from Online Metals.com or Interstate Plastics.

 

[jason02ws6]

It holds up quite well and has a much better slip quality than aluminum or other plastics and is easy to replace when needed. Weight isn't too much of a concern for me with links, I add my weight in or on the axles since we have all brass options that are available these days. It also depends on the build, the one pictured is a light weight Class2 rig and the uppers are 3/16" stainless. Most of the time I run 1/4" stainless lower links. The Delrin goes back to my comp crawler days, so still like to use them once and awhile. "thumbsup"

Thanks for the additional detail!


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[crazee horse]

Some of your links were bent, I take it you just heat them up? I've never used delrin before and was amazed how difficult it was to ge an m3 screw into a 2.5 hole. Knew it would be tight but man I nearly rounded the hex's!

 

[R2j]

Some of your links were bent, I take it you just heat them up? I've never used delrin before and was amazed how difficult it was to ge an m3 screw into a 2.5 hole. Knew it would be tight but man I nearly rounded the hex's!

Yes, just a bit of heat, hold bend and let cool.

2.5mm is a bit small to thread 3mm, I use 7/64" drill bit, which equals 2.78mm, and never have any issues.