MaX-D's Wroncho Build

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

I would run the 1st set of sliders for sure, and if possible put a small spacer to bring the height up. Or you could drop the body a tad.

And I’d use magnets instead of Velcro.


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[Topher Builds]

What if you flipped around which side they’re on? Line up any better?

You might be able to widen your track width a tad to prevent rubbing as well. If at all possible may be better to have the higher part of the slider toward the rear for clearances sake.

 

[MaX-D]

What if you flipped around which side they’re on? Line up any better?



You might be able to widen your track width a tad to prevent rubbing as well. If at all possible may be better to have the higher part of the slider toward the rear for clearances sake.

I'll try swapping sides which should make them backwards if you will. When I moved them forward in the second pic, I ran out of skid holes.
There's a hole on the angle up from the front skid hole that lines up with the screw hole on the slider. That's why the front was a little higher making the slider angle down from front to back a bit.
At this point, I'll try anything. I've never tried brazing, and don't think I want to go that route. These sliders are actually for an SCX10. I'll keep you posted.

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[MaX-D]

And I’d use magnets instead of Velcro.


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Thanks for this. Magnets are my first choice as they work so well on my TRX-4 Sport.


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[B-MOW71]

I need your opinion on the rock sliders. In this pic you can see that the sliders aren't lined up with the body, but I'm using the screws for the skid.

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I hate when things don't go as planned!

I've been staring at your pics trying to figure out how to fix the slider issue and I can't seem to find a solution. It looks like either way you mount the slider, the tire is still going to rub the body when turned. And after the body is trimmed, the slider will stick out too far forward. It doesn't look like there is any way to trim or modify the slider without making it look terrible.

Unless I'm not seeing it correctly, the only way I can see to fix it is to either find another slider that can be modified or braze/weld up a simple slider that will fit the body better.

Sorry, I wasn't much help! Let me give it some more thought!

 

[MaX-D]

Ok, just for poops and giggles I moved the body back about 1/2" to line it up with the rock sliders. I know the body needs trimmed a bit. Ironically, the two dimples on the hood for the stock body mount holes lined up with my mock Proline body posts. Perhaps this is where the body is actually supposed to be? Maybe?
Thoughts?

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[TheLetterJ]

Run it! Well, you might as well cut the rocker panels off the bottom of the body so it sits lower while you're at it. That'd help hide the gap between the grille and frame rails too. What are you planning for bumpers?

 

[MaX-D]

. What are you planning for bumpers?

Don't know if this will work, but I was thinking of making a piece like pic 1 connected to the frame rails long enough to clear the servo, and attach this Wraith bumper to it.

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[MaX-D]

Well, the hobbywing V 3.1 ESC/Tekin pro4 4600 KV sensored motor setup sucks for crawling. The slow speed start up is horrible. The motor just stutters before it finally kicks in. Plenty of wheel speed though.
I'm going to a brushed set up with a hobbywing 1080, and a Holmes Hobby Trailmaster Sport 540 27T or 35t. I'm undecided. These are the two recommended Motors on Holmes hobby website for The Wraith. What is the difference between these two Motors for crawlability and wheel speed?
I wanted to go with a 16t Crawlmaster Sport, but they are out of stock, and have been for a while. The trailmasters are all in stock.

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[TheLetterJ]

What's your gearing? I'd recommend gearing WAAAAAYYYY down before giving up on your current setup (though, I'm sure that esc is still less than ideal.) If you're for sure going to brushed, I'd still suggest gearring as low as you can (my go-to for the Wraith is 32p 9t/60t) and definitely get something 550 sized. There's not really any drawback on a build like yours (where you have the room and are not trying to shave off every gram you can.) You'll get a good amount more torque than you would from an equivalent build 540. If you want smooth (and cheap) the 5-slot Crawlmaster Sport 12t 550 is the ticket. If you want a little more torque, the 3-slot Trailmaster Sport 21t 550 will deliver while still being smooth at startup (just not as smooth as the Crawlmaster) while having about the same wheelspeed. Both of those are currently in stock at RPP for $20. Lots of other good options out there too, depending on your budget.

 

[xtreme4x2]

Man I love Wroncho builds! Yours is coming along nicely. I like the frame you're using! I built mine using the following list and a Cherokee body. I'm about to build another, but for mud and sand using another Cherokee body. 8)

Sorry for the thread jack, just figured I'd share how I built mine. "thumbsup"

SCX10 II chassis
Vader flat skid
In the works rc high clearance brass links
Scaler fab link plates
Vanquish ar60 CMS kit
extended rear link mounts
Hobbywing 1080
HH 550 35t trailmaster
ar60s w/Brass tubes and diff cover front/rear
UD rear
SSD knuckles
Ebay fender liners

 

[Phildirt]

On my scx10 with stock axles I’m running 87t spur, 12t pinion, 27t HH 550 sport and it crawls like a goat but wheel speed is horrendous lol. I plan on swapping to 3s before I change anything. It runs very cool though which was my number one goal. All that to say I’ve been very pleased with the Holmes motor, went through a Traxxas, Axial, and PowerHobby motor before settling on this one. Second cheapest out of that bunch too.

 

[Phildirt]

Xtreme do you have a build thread for your Xj?

 

[xtreme4x2]

Xtreme do you have a build thread for your Xj?

Unfortunately I do not. Didn't think anyone would be interested haha

I have a few more pictures in the 2.2 picture thread and if you have any questions just PM me "thumbsup"

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/2-2-...ure-archive-pictures-only-39.html#post6024968

 

[MaX-D]

What's your gearing? I'd recommend gearing WAAAAAYYYY down before giving up on your current setup (though, I'm sure that esc is still less than ideal.) If you're for sure going to brushed, I'd still suggest gearring as low as you can (my go-to for the Wraith is 32p 9t/60t) and definitely get something 550 sized. There's not really any drawback on a build like yours (where you have the room and are not trying to shave off every gram you can.) You'll get a good amount more torque than you would from an equivalent build 540. If you want smooth (and cheap) the 5-slot Crawlmaster Sport 12t 550 is the ticket. If you want a little more torque, the 3-slot Trailmaster Sport 21t 550 will deliver while still being smooth at startup (just not as smooth as the Crawlmaster) while having about the same wheelspeed. Both of those are currently in stock at RPP for $20. Lots of other good options out there too, depending on your budget.

My current gearing is 32p, 56/12. I'll throw a 9t pinion in it tonight. I'm using a 2200mah 3s 35c battery. The truck weighs in at 6lbs. 14.5oz with the battery and bumper that's not yet attached.
After putting the 9t on if it still sucks, I'm ordering the 550 Crawlmaster Sport 12t. I want smooth.

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[MaX-D]

Man I love Wroncho builds! Yours is coming along nicely. I like the frame you're using! I built mine using the following list and a Cherokee body. I'm about to build another, but for mud and sand using another Cherokee body. 8)



Sorry for the thread jack, just figured I'd share how I built mine. "thumbsup"



SCX10 II chassis

Vader flat skid

In the works rc high clearance brass links

Scaler fab link plates

Vanquish ar60 CMS kit

extended rear link mounts

Hobbywing 1080

HH 550 35t trailmaster

ar60s w/Brass tubes and diff cover front/rear

UD rear

SSD knuckles

Ebay fender liners

I don't mind the thread hijack at all. I was enjoy looking at other people's builds. You're welcome to hijack anytime

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[MaX-D]

Are Traxxas 32p pinions compatible with Axial spurs? I've only got a Traxxas 9t pinion at the moment.

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[MaX-D]

I still don't know what I'm going to use for body posts. I know I just need to make a decision and get it done. I like the Proline locking knobs as they hold the body in place very well, but I don't like the 4mm screws that screw into the body post. I've used these quite a bit on a lot of my Basher trucks only two have the mounting screw completely ripped out of the body post never to be found again. I know that would probably never happen on a crawler, but it takes just one good roll over.

I like body pins as they're easy to put on and take off but after a while the body cracks around the body post because of the pins.

So I came up with this idea. Why not use a 4 mm screw with the proline locking nuts. I drilled a 3mm hole, and then drove the 4mm screw through it so it would grab onto the plastic and not need a locking nut.

Something is telling me not to use magnets on this one. I've learned to trust my gut.

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[Topher Builds]

As long as your gears are the same pitch the brand won’t matter, if both are 32p and your motor mount allows for the gear spacing then you should be good to go.

I like your body post idea there!

 

[MaX-D]

As long as your gears are the same pitch the brand won’t matter, if both are 32p and your motor mount allows for the gear spacing then you should be good to go.

I like your body post idea there!

I know that Traxxas gears are 0.8 mod, and others are mod 1. Honestly, I don't even know what that means, or what the difference is if there is any. I'm using a Robinson Racing 56t steel spur.

Out of all the different possibilities for body posts, I like this one the best. I've then hung up on " how's it going to look?" Then I thought, it's not a scaler so who cares. It's more about what's going to be the most functional and hold the body on the best since these are the only two things that I'm going to use, like yourself on your truck, to hold the body on.
I chopped up an extra ECX body post from one of my Basher trucks. Although there's a locking nut on the back side of the screw, it still seems to spin easily. I need to secure it with a plastic cable tie or something at the bottom so it doesn't spin

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