Greatscott's Capra Kit

[Greatscott]

I pulled the trigger on this kit a couple of weeks ago, and have been slowly collecting parts and pieces to complete and upgrade it. Normally, I'd jump right into a build, but between work, school, and family stuff, I haven't been able to dig into it. Well, I just finished my current class, and have a month off from school... So, time to start building.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Most parts are new, but there are couple that have been pulled out of other rigs. This whole mess will be guided by my DX5R.

I haven't decided what I cam going to do for a winch yet. I am thinking about designing and printing a servo winch mount for under the hood. Or, I might see how one of those bungy winches works for me.

I need to figure out what I am going to do about the body panels as well. It is too cold to pain in my shop, so I am thinking about doing some sort of wrap on them.

 

[B-MOW71]

Congrats! Can't wait to see what you have in store for it!

SOR Graphics make some cool wraps for the Capra. I bought a couple for mine, but haven't used them yet. They seem to be great quality!

It's too damn cold and snowy here too, so my painting is on hold for awhile!:x

 

[mewalsh100]

Congrats on the new Capra kit and welcome to the club!

I live in a cold climate this time of year as well which as you guys said, limits the ability to paint. (Way too much fume and overspray to shoot indoors).

Anyway, I've been working on a small "paint booth". It's a larger cardboard box, turned on it side, with the closing flaps cut off. I then used a second box to cut a flap that tapes/hinges across the top and can fold down to enclose the box after spraying. I then cut a hole in the top for a shop light. Being careful to leave enough reveal between the cardboard and the shop light, I position the light over / through the opening. This cardboard unit is just my test mule. If this works, as it seems to, I plan on executing the design with plywood. So far, with the light on the front flap closed, the temps in the box have been about 18-21 degrees F above the ambient temp in my garage. (My garage is attached and insulated, so even during cold snaps it will stay right around 46 - 51 degrees.) Additionally, I think the heating will only improve with the added R value of wood versus cardboard, and using plywood, I will not have to leave a reveal around the light at the top which is certainly allowing for some of the heat to escape.

I may also use an old pc fan and some dryer hose or similar to create an exhaust. Still kicking around ideas.

Anyway, didn't mean to hijack and probably should post this under Paint and Body, but it seemed appropriate to the conversation.

Greatscott - please let me know if you'd like me to delete this from here and move it to Paint and Body."thumbsup"

 

[GA Dawg]

Congrats on the new Capra kit and welcome to the club!

I live in a cold climate this time of year as well which as you guys said, limits the ability to paint. (Way too much fume and overspray to shoot indoors).

Anyway, I've been working on a small "paint booth". It's a larger cardboard box, turned on it side, with the closing flaps cut off. I then used a second box to cut a flap that tapes/hinges across the top and can fold down to enclose the box after spraying. I then cut a hole in the top for a shop light. Being careful to leave enough reveal between the cardboard and the shop light, I position the light over / through the opening. This cardboard unit is just my test mule. If this works, as it seems to, I plan on executing the design with plywood. So far, with the light on the front flap closed, the temps in the box have been about 18-21 degrees F above the ambient temp in my garage. (My garage is attached and insulated, so even during cold snaps it will stay right around 46 - 51 degrees.) Additionally, I think the heating will only improve with the added R value of wood versus cardboard, and using plywood, I will not have to leave a reveal around the light at the top which is certainly allowing for some of the heat to escape.

I may also use an old pc fan and some dryer hose or similar to create an exhaust. Still kicking around ideas.

Anyway, didn't mean to hijack and probably should post this under Paint and Body, but it seemed appropriate to the conversation.

Greatscott - please let me know if you'd like me to delete this from here and move it to Paint and Body."thumbsup"

What a great idea. Maybe think about further insulating your plywood box with some foam insulation board.

 

[B-MOW71]

Anyway, I've been working on a small "paint booth".

I like this idea! I may look into doing something similar. I've ruined enough bodies trying to paint in cold weather knowing that the outcome would come out bad! I have little patience and waiting for the right outdoor temp to shoot a body is frustrating!

Thanks for the idea!"thumbsup"

 

[Kingmeow]

Caution on the exhaust fan. Make sure they are explosion proof if you are using non-water based stinky paints.

 

[mewalsh100]

What a great idea. Maybe think about further insulating your plywood box with some foam insulation board.

Thanks GA Dawg. You read my mind on the insulation idea. Although truthfully, I'm not sure it'll need it.

 

[mewalsh100]

I agree Brian! Been there, done that! Hopefully this little booth idea works out.

 

[Topher Builds]

Congrats on the new kit GS! The Capra is very fun rig. Looks like you’re off to a solid start.

 

[Greatscott]

Congrats on the new Capra kit and welcome to the club!

I live in a cold climate this time of year as well which as you guys said, limits the ability to paint. (Way too much fume and overspray to shoot indoors).

Anyway, I've been working on a small "paint booth". It's a larger cardboard box, turned on it side, with the closing flaps cut off. I then used a second box to cut a flap that tapes/hinges across the top and can fold down to enclose the box after spraying. I then cut a hole in the top for a shop light. Being careful to leave enough reveal between the cardboard and the shop light, I position the light over / through the opening. This cardboard unit is just my test mule. If this works, as it seems to, I plan on executing the design with plywood. So far, with the light on the front flap closed, the temps in the box have been about 18-21 degrees F above the ambient temp in my garage. (My garage is attached and insulated, so even during cold snaps it will stay right around 46 - 51 degrees.) Additionally, I think the heating will only improve with the added R value of wood versus cardboard, and using plywood, I will not have to leave a reveal around the light at the top which is certainly allowing for some of the heat to escape.

I may also use an old pc fan and some dryer hose or similar to create an exhaust. Still kicking around ideas.

Anyway, didn't mean to hijack and probably should post this under Paint and Body, but it seemed appropriate to the conversation.

I have a paint booth in my garage, I am able to get it around 70 in the winter, but the paint jobs still turn out lousy. I have tried a number of things, the greatest success I had was heating the booth, but having the body and paints in the house, and only taking them out to paint when I was ready. Most of the parts turned out ok, but I still had a couple of failures.

Greatscott - please let me know if you'd like me to delete this from here and move it to Paint and Body."thumbsup"

Nope, all good stuff! Keep it coming!!!

 

[mewalsh100]

I have a paint booth in my garage, I am able to get it around 70 in the winter, but the paint jobs still turn out lousy. I have tried a number of things, the greatest success I had was heating the booth, but having the body and paints in the house, and only taking them out to paint when I was ready. Most of the parts turned out ok, but I still had a couple of failures.

Nope, all good stuff! Keep it coming!!!

Yep, I do the same - keep all my paints indoors for the constant climate."thumbsup". I also bring them back inside between coats to keep the temps of them consistent. I'm now thinking I may modify my idea a bit. I have a small, bench top space heater. I think I might create a sort of duct from it to the "paint booth/box" versus the shop light heat source. It should provide a good bit more direct heat, and I think it will also sap more humidity of out of the booth/box then the shop light heat source. Humidity of course being a potentially bigger problem then temp. Who knows, I may be on a fools errand with this whole deal!:roll::lmao:

 

[Greatscott]

Well, we're off and running...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

The axles went together fairly easily, but the diff caps were a bit of a pain to get on. The next step is my lease favorite task, building shocks....

Given that this runs portals, is this a reverse rotation drive train? I want to set up the MambaX before it install it...

 

[Greatscott]

So, after building these shocks twice, my brutal dislike for building shocks hasn't decreased at all...

After getting them together the first time I wasn't sure which springs to use, so I went on to YouTube for setup advise. In just about every video, they recommended doing the internal spring mod for crawling. So, I took them apart again, installed the springs, and put them back together again.

I have started putting the links, I have to say, I like the new design. The hole in the links and the hex on the rod end make it a lot easier to put them together.

I did find a mistake in the manual, page 15 has the wrong lengths on the screws. It took me a couple of minutes to figure it out, download the manual and it had the correct hardware.

 

[Hal]

Congrats on the new Capra kit and welcome to the club!

I live in a cold climate this time of year as well which as you guys said, limits the ability to paint. (Way too much fume and overspray to shoot indoors).

Anyway, I've been working on a small "paint booth". It's a larger cardboard box, turned on it side, with the closing flaps cut off. I then used a second box to cut a flap that tapes/hinges across the top and can fold down to enclose the box after spraying. I then cut a hole in the top for a shop light. Being careful to leave enough reveal between the cardboard and the shop light, I position the light over / through the opening. This cardboard unit is just my test mule. If this works, as it seems to, I plan on executing the design with plywood. So far, with the light on the front flap closed, the temps in the box have been about 18-21 degrees F above the ambient temp in my garage. (My garage is attached and insulated, so even during cold snaps it will stay right around 46 - 51 degrees.) Additionally, I think the heating will only improve with the added R value of wood versus cardboard, and using plywood, I will not have to leave a reveal around the light at the top which is certainly allowing for some of the heat to escape.

I may also use an old pc fan and some dryer hose or similar to create an exhaust. Still kicking around ideas.

Anyway, didn't mean to hijack and probably should post this under Paint and Body, but it seemed appropriate to the conversation.

Greatscott - please let me know if you'd like me to delete this from here and move it to Paint and Body."thumbsup"

I like the booth idea just be aware that any of the fumes should not come in contact with the fan motor used for a vent. The motor will spark and possibly ignite the fumes and you could very easily have a nice little fire on your hands. You need a "squirrel cage" type fan or use a sealed motor so the fumes don't have an ignition source. Great idea otherwise, and the wood is easy to build with and seal.:mrgreen:

 

[Greatscott]

Cranken' up my geekness...

For the life of me I cannot figure out why Axial would not include a waterproof/resistant RX case. Luckily, putting one on isn't that big of a deal. I took the stock RX case off, took some measurements and whipped up a fairly simple flatbed mount in Fusion 360. I made two versions, one "plain", and another with a bracket for a power switch. I made the bracket with two holes on the back that are 25mm apart for mounting an RX case. My RX case of choice are Traxxas cases, I have never had one fail on me. If you are interested, here is the Thingiverse link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4685072

Here is the design in Fusion
RX_Plate_Switch v4 by Scott O, on Flickr

Here I have mounted the Traxxas case on it. I drilled two countersunk 3mm holes 25mm apart. With everything nice and snug it should keep the water out.
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Here is a test-fitting, making sure everything lined up properly.
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

And here it is with the RX case.
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

I was toying with the thought of putting the ESC on the mount, and the RX case inside the chassis. But I think it makes more sense the way that I have it, and after connecting everything up, I should only need access to the ESC's RX plug for software adjustment. One thing I am liking about the Capra over the Bomber is being able to access the RX without taking everything apart.

 

[Greatscott]

The build continues...

I was cursing Axial last night. I finally got to where I wanted the wheels on the rig, so I went to install the hexes and discovered I was missing two of the hex pins. I am very careful when I build, all hardware gets put in a specific spot and sorted, so I knew I didn't lose them on my workbench. After 30 minutes and two beers I figured the good folks at Axial had forgotten these two pins. For no apparent reason, the included 4-way wrench caught my eye, and when I picked it up I noticed the two hex pins jammed down inside... :roll: I giggled at myself, grabbed another beer, and continued the build.

With power to the rig I have the steering adjusted, and it looks like the reverse rotation setting on the Mamba-X was the right call.

Now I need to set up the dig servo. I am going to set it up for 3-position, giving me 4wd, fwd, and dig. The trick to setting this up properly is to start with the FWD as the center position, and to take the travel on either side to minimum before putting the linage in. The servo will get centered on the FWD position, then the travel will be extended in both directions until 4WD and dig engage properly.

As stated, its too cold to paint, so I went with aluminum panels from Barndog Racing. Looking forward to seeing how they look.

One lesson learned: I put the motor in as I was building, and that caused a little annoyance. I clock the motor so that the wires were straight up, when the transmission is mounted on the skid this puts the sensor wire right at the link mount, which makes it very difficult to put it. I had to take the transmission off, clock the motor so that the motor wires were at 45 degrees out, and reinstall. Axial, if you are listening, this would be a good note to put in the manual.

 

[B-MOW71]

Great looking receiver box mount! The Traxxas box fits inside the cage perfectly! That is the same receiver box I use on most of my rigs and have never had any issues with water entering the box.

You gotta love when parts go MIA only to be found hiding in an unusual spot!:ror: Glad to hear you found them!"thumbsup"

 

[Topher Builds]

Ah hex pins! I’ve had those stop my build more than once before.

Making good progress though. What KV Slate motor are you running?

 

[Greatscott]

Thanks for the comments!!!

I am running a Castle 1900kv motor. I plan on pushing it with 3S, I just need to find batteries, none of my current packs will fit.

I got the dig set up last night. There is a VERY tiny window between 4WD, FWD, and dig. Between the Reef's 99 and my DX5R, I was able to set it up so that I have all three drive modes.

I am at the point now where I need to start buttoning everything up, getting the wires dressed and tucked away. I will likely run with a very short extender out of the RX box to allow quick access for ESC programming. The rig is very smooth in the forward direction, but it as a bit of a twitch if I am not careful going in reverse. Between the ESC and radio, I am fairly sure I can program that out.

 

[smog]

Cool, I did not realize the Capra also had the third front wheel drive option. Rig requires a shorty pack?

The SSD portal covers have a nice looking finish, no surprises there I suppose.

More pics coming? Those wheels must be mounted...