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Holmes Hobby talks 2:1 2300kv
- Thread starter Timmahh
- Start date
AnimalHippie
RCC Addict
I proudly stand behind HH products. I think I’ll pick up a 1800kv one for the nukiser once they’re available
Very interested in these, but hoping the reliability is as good as the Fusions...
I did end up ordering a 2nd 2 in 1 from RPP on Tuesday. Today they called to say "that wasnt supposed to be something you could order yet" they also said they should have some in inventory soon.
A buddy of mine who uses social media more than me also said JRH mentioned that they will have some inventory up on the Holmes Hobbies site soon too after dealer orders go out.
A buddy of mine who uses social media more than me also said JRH mentioned that they will have some inventory up on the Holmes Hobbies site soon too after dealer orders go out.
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I got my 2n1 and went to install it in my H10 but I was not expecting it to run into a wiring issue. The battery wire is just too short, its like 4" long which on a normal ESC is plenty because you can put in almost anywhere. With a 2 in 1 you dont get to pick where it goes.
On a VFD I much prefer to clock the motor so the wires come out on the passenger side and are routed away from the driveshaft and back to the driver side. But to get the wires where I need them (so I can connect a battery) I have to clock it to the driver side. However the negative battery wire ends up basically sitting on the driveshaft. I also removed the transmission looking case portion of the VFD to get a tiny bit more space.
Part of this is me being stubborn and needing to keep the battery on the driver side. I just prefer to put extra weight on the side that works against torque twist rather than for it.
I might try to clock it upwards a bit more and sort of straddle the transmission standoffs though then its pretty close to the top shaft. Or I'll see if I can solder in longer leads though it looks like its been conformal coated so that complicates things. I've never actually tried to solder a conformal coated board so if anyone has tips on how to clean and prep it please school me.
Am I being a bit petty, yeah a bit but I did feel the need to share this for all the other OCD builders out there.
I'll probably email Holmes to mention that a longer battery wire or an option for one would be helpful.
EDIT: It looks like Fusions have about 8" long battery leads. Thats probably what this one needs too.
I should also mention that if this was in a rig I could just pull the body off and hook up the battery this wouldn't be an issue at all. Its really specific to the H10 optic since it uses a battery door instead.
On a VFD I much prefer to clock the motor so the wires come out on the passenger side and are routed away from the driveshaft and back to the driver side. But to get the wires where I need them (so I can connect a battery) I have to clock it to the driver side. However the negative battery wire ends up basically sitting on the driveshaft. I also removed the transmission looking case portion of the VFD to get a tiny bit more space.
Part of this is me being stubborn and needing to keep the battery on the driver side. I just prefer to put extra weight on the side that works against torque twist rather than for it.
I might try to clock it upwards a bit more and sort of straddle the transmission standoffs though then its pretty close to the top shaft. Or I'll see if I can solder in longer leads though it looks like its been conformal coated so that complicates things. I've never actually tried to solder a conformal coated board so if anyone has tips on how to clean and prep it please school me.
Am I being a bit petty, yeah a bit but I did feel the need to share this for all the other OCD builders out there.
I'll probably email Holmes to mention that a longer battery wire or an option for one would be helpful.
EDIT: It looks like Fusions have about 8" long battery leads. Thats probably what this one needs too.
I should also mention that if this was in a rig I could just pull the body off and hook up the battery this wouldn't be an issue at all. Its really specific to the H10 optic since it uses a battery door instead.
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The Fusion battery leads are ridiculously long, but 4" is way too short. Holmes should have known better.
89Industries
Quarry Creeper
Could you make yourself (or buy) an xt60 extension? Might allow you to get all wires where you want them and with enough length to make plugging the battery in reasonably easy.
I can see how it might not be an acceptable solution for the OCD leaning folks (myself included in that ocd group) but i don't like to solder on esc or pcb boards, etc because I am worried about ruining perfectly good and fairly expensive things with my level of skill.
Edit: looking at the HH "getting started with the 2in1" video the battery wires do look short. I didn't notice that before. I agree should be longer, easier to shorten than make them longer. I am willing to change connectors/shorten the wires on the connector end of esc wires without worry.
I can see how it might not be an acceptable solution for the OCD leaning folks (myself included in that ocd group) but i don't like to solder on esc or pcb boards, etc because I am worried about ruining perfectly good and fairly expensive things with my level of skill.
Edit: looking at the HH "getting started with the 2in1" video the battery wires do look short. I didn't notice that before. I agree should be longer, easier to shorten than make them longer. I am willing to change connectors/shorten the wires on the connector end of esc wires without worry.
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Sorry for the super long essay above, that could have just been a sentence or two. 
Yeah an XT60 extinsion would fix it. I just dont love adding extra connection points but worst case scenario I could do that.
Tonight I'll open up the back of the motor to check out whats required to solder in new leads. I'll post up some pictures too.
Yeah an XT60 extinsion would fix it. I just dont love adding extra connection points but worst case scenario I could do that.
Tonight I'll open up the back of the motor to check out whats required to solder in new leads. I'll post up some pictures too.
cartronicshn
I wanna be Dave
Besides the battery cable length... any insights on how it is performing to anyone's liking? Drag brake, power , etc...
So its not too bad to solder in new leads. It didnt seem to be conformal coated on the inside.
You will need 13 AWG wire in order to fit the through hole it solders to. One of the trickier parts is just clearing out the old solder from this hole. With some safety glasses on melt the solder and quickly blow the solder out. I also used a little round file to remove a bit more solder that clung to the edge once I had the majority cleared out.
One cool thing I noticed was the JST lead has its own through holes so you dont have to solder both at once or share the hole.
I did accidentally pull the positive end loose so watch out for that.
Not as pretty as the solder job Holmes did but It should do the trick.
I ended up with a 8 1/4" long lead to work with the H10 Optic.
I did end up having to cut away a bit of the skid on the passenger side so the rear of the motor would clear. I just used some flush cutters.
You will need 13 AWG wire in order to fit the through hole it solders to. One of the trickier parts is just clearing out the old solder from this hole. With some safety glasses on melt the solder and quickly blow the solder out. I also used a little round file to remove a bit more solder that clung to the edge once I had the majority cleared out.
One cool thing I noticed was the JST lead has its own through holes so you dont have to solder both at once or share the hole.
I did accidentally pull the positive end loose so watch out for that.
Not as pretty as the solder job Holmes did but It should do the trick.
I ended up with a 8 1/4" long lead to work with the H10 Optic.
I did end up having to cut away a bit of the skid on the passenger side so the rear of the motor would clear. I just used some flush cutters.
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Interesting that it's not conformal coated. Did the motor end cap have a nice gasket to keep the water out?
Well I guess I wasnt super scientific about it. I scraped the solder points with a sharp pick and nothing seemed to peel off. Initially I noticed a clear coating on some of the wires right at the back of the motor so thats what made me think it was coated. Maybe it was just some flux or something?
In a youtube comment John responded to the question of is it waterproof by saying "yes they run in water" and in the product description it states: We recommend dielectric grease applied on the output ball bearing to minimize water seeping between the bearing/ shaft interface.
The end cap does not have a seal.
Personally I dont worry much about water proofing things much anymore. When I was new to the hobby that was a much bigger focus.
I finally have my H10 back together after rebuilding some shocks last night. I should be able to get a run in tonight, I'll report back.
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Desoldering braid is your friend here
Yeah I tried that too, the solder ends up a bit below the surface and the though hole solder pad has very little solder built up on it so transfering the heat from the iron doesnt work too well. It didnt suck up any solder. The tin solder they use goes from melted to solid super quick too which doesnt make it any easier. But thats a good point.Desoldering braid is your friend here
Maybe if you use it while desoldering the existing wire it would work better.
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I find it helps using some flux paste on the braid. Eager to hear how these motors work out, looking forward to hearing more
Thanks for the feedback. They are conformal coated, its just a product that is thinner than what we typically use. If its a problem we will beef it up or make the ESC into a potted brick that gets installed. My biggest goal was having the motor and ESC be serviceable , so we didn't just fully pot everything.
Im hesitant to extend the leads another 4 inches but would another 2 be enough? I didn't run accross any rigs where it was a problem on install but I dont have an H10.
Im hesitant to extend the leads another 4 inches but would another 2 be enough? I didn't run accross any rigs where it was a problem on install but I dont have an H10.
i wounder if we all asked real nice if they would send you one for you know research and marketing and such
lol hay uh can we get a optic specific motor-esc-servo-bec 4 in 1 combo lol with intigrated reciver and battery built in lol
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