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1:1 Brake Bleeding Alone?

R

Robb

RCC Addict
Joined
Aug 18, 2005
Messages
1,826
Location
VARCOR
I find myself in a "time is short" situation where I need to have my F150 back on the road first thing Saturday morning.....................but it has been sitting for about a year and needs a little love before I, or the Commonwealth of Va, will trust it on public streets.:)

Come Friday morning (the only time I will have off to play with it), I need to get a bunch of stuff completed on it before I get it over to inspection shop at lunch, so they can make it all legal-like in the afternoon.

Got everything covered, except for replacing the existing brake fluid and filling/bleeding with new. If anyone recalls, Ford truck cruise control brake switches "had a slight chance of failure and possible fire" a couple of years ago. Well, I can tell you first hand, they had a GOOD chance of catching fire!!:cry: Anywho, the brake system on this truck has been soft and non-maintained since. Basically, I have only used it to go to the dump and back (illegally) since, and now it is time to make it a driver again.

Damn I can yap about nothing important!:shock: Okay, so on Friday morning, I can't find a soul to help me in regards to bleeding the brakes on this thing. Crazy having everyone I know being responsible adults that have to work!!:mrgreen: So now I am starting to look into these various pumps/kits/bleeder check valves/etc for assistance for a solo brake bleeding. Does anyone have experience in bleeding by themselves, and tips for doing it or parts/kits used to do it? I am gung-ho to get this done Friday morning, so if I gotta spend a bit at the parts store for a good set-up, I am okay with that......................but if there is a tried-n-true cheaper means of going about it, I am all ears also.

Thanks for any help!
 
Yep, I use a system like this on all of my vehicles:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92474

I bought it from HF after my wife got tired of doing the "legwork"...

Here's a shot of the setup:
VacuumBleeding.jpg


They are fairly simple to use and straight forward.
 
Just get some Russel Speed Bleeders, they replace yours and make it a one man job.
 
A cheaper way out....

A 20 oz. Pepsi bottle,1/4 way full of new brake fluid. Run a plastic line from the bleeder to the little fluid in the 20 oz. bottle. Crack the bleeder and pump until the air bubbles stop. Naturally,double check the master every little bit so you don't run it to low adding more air. Like always,start at the furthest wheel.

Ain't the best way and the pumps are easier no doubt. This method does work though and it eliminates the pump it up and hold method that requires 2 people.
 
OR....just give me a call and Ill come over and help ya bleed 'em. Unfortunately Ive been back on the UE list for the last few weeks so Id be available.

A PM'd be fine;)


Jon
 
Reflection said:
A cheaper way out....

A 20 oz. Pepsi bottle,1/4 way full of new brake fluid. Run a plastic line from the bleeder to the little fluid in the 20 oz. bottle. Crack the bleeder and pump until the air bubbles stop. Naturally,double check the master every little bit so you don't run it to low adding more air. Like always,start at the furthest wheel.

Ain't the best way and the pumps are easier no doubt. This method does work though and it eliminates the pump it up and hold method that requires 2 people.
Click to expand...

When you use this method,
Also helps to take out the bleeder screw at each wheel and put grease around the threads,then reinstall bleeder screws.This will pevent any air from getting into the brake system when you are pumping the brake pedal.
 
1. open top of master cylinder and fill with fluid and leave open....

2. go to the farthest wheel and open bleeder screw....

3. then go to other rear wheel and open screw....

4. go back and forth till no more air bubbles come out....

5. close screws, rear is done....

6. fill up master cylinder again....

7. go to right front wheel and open bleeder screw....

8. go to left front and open bleeder screw....

9. no more bubbles, close screws, your done....

10. fill master back up and drive "thumbsup" ....if your feeling frisky open all four and keep an eye on the master cylinder level....no reason fer all the do-dads and hickies...........bob

....
 
Last edited:
Take a clean coke bottle fill it 3/4 full of brake fluid, attach a plastic fuel tube to the bleeder valve incert the other end down into the bottle of fluid. Open the valve, pump brakes till the line show full of fluid close the valve and fill the top compartment. do this for all wheels. No air backs into lines as it has to draw from whats in the bottle. This has worked for 80 years or more as my father showed me a long time ago.

Cheap and easy!!!
 
Heres an article. Lots of other good articles too.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/13/318/article/Brake_Fluid_Flush_Made_Easy.html

Another good article on brakes
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/..._Duty_Slotted_Disk_Brake_Upgrade__Part_I.html

The pedal on my F-250 feels mushy now so it needs a complete flush. Should do a complete flush every couple years as a simple bleed doesn't replace enough fluid to make a difference. I always took my truck to get the brakes done but with all the shitty over priced mechanics out there I'm doing as much myself as possible now. Also make shure the slide pins anre smooth and lubricated with the proper high temp grease.
 
Last edited:
bob1961 said:
1. open top of master cylinder and fill with fluid and leave open....

2. go to the farthest wheel and open bleeder screw....

3. then go to other rear wheel and open screw....

4. go back and forth till no more air bubbles come out....

5. close screws, rear is done....

6. fill up master cylinder again....

7. go to right front wheel and open bleeder screw....

8. go to left front and open bleeder screw....

9. no more bubbles, close screws, your done....

10. fill master back up and drive "thumbsup" ....if your feeling frisky open all four and keep an eye on the master cylinder level....no reason fer all the do-dads and hickies...........bob

....
Click to expand...


gravity bleed. thats how i do it as well.
 
Hose in a bottle "thumbsup"

Vacuum bleeders can suck air from around the bleed screw, especially if the bleeder is rusty, and you can't tell where the bubbles are coming from. Gravity bleed makes a fawkin mess and it's hard to see the bubbles.
 
I'm with Bob n Kurt. I got so sick of askin someone else at the shop to help me, and hearing how THEY do it different, I bought a couple of those self bleed kits. They work, but the best way I found, was to gravity bleed them. A little speedy-dri under each wheel, and maybe a beer or 2, and you'll be good to go. Plus, a 50 lb bag of speedi-dri is cheaper than all the kits, and I bet your gonna need it again for something else anyways.
 
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