TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Is there any reason you couldn't use two 2S batteries to get to 4S?
You definitely can. Traxxas of course had their recommended battery setups posted. The varieties are 2*2S, 2*3S, or 1*4S.Is there any reason you couldn't use two 2S batteries to get to 4S?
I did just check out and price out some replacement items for the SBR over at Horizon. Replacing the body alone is gonna run you a cool $200! Ouuuuuuuccccchhhhhhhh!
A clear body for the 1/10 Baja Rey is $85 now. They're crazy.
A clear body for the 1/10 Baja Rey is $85 now. They're crazy.
Cool thanks for the tips!fabing aluminum is relatively easy.. try to find a piece of end stock that’s already giving you a finished edge to start with and base your measurements from there. use a thin gauge that is easy to bend but not so thin that it’s destroyed after running.. i like to use existing threaded holes as mount points because it saves time from drilling and tapping and looks better. two or three of them bolts holding the axle pumpkin cover on are potentially good mounting options. i might try a full length axle guard that sorta partially wraps the front leading edges of the axle housing and just use ziptyes to attach it.. replacing a busted tye is easier than repairing a damaged screw. practice drilling and tapping,it’s fun to do and you don’t need to fiddle with starting a tiny nut on the backside of anything.. just make sure you have thick enough material that the screw won’t strip. flat file all your edges and debur or bevel any sharp points. bend the aluminum using a shop vice for nice straight lines.. use a small coping saw with a metal cutting blade.
On one hand i could have saved myself a lot of time if I knew this was coming a year ago, when I started to try and make my BR more scale. On the other it's an odd sized beast, so if I wanted to modify a lot of things finding compatible parts from other vendors would be pretty difficult. I really appreciate what they're trying to do here, and the upside-down chassis plate construction to get around the cage integration is pretty cleaver, as is the planetary gear setup to fight torque twist. I'm sure the bottom plate will get an aftermarket aluminum option made, help toughen it up and lower the overall CoG. That would be nice.
The choice of the Lofton scheme is both sensible (it is a popular race winner) and not, in the sense the IRL Jimco truck is setup way differently than the Rigid truck is, so it looks wrong to me lol
..man,that udr wouldve been killer if it was fifth scale. Kinda wish everyone would just stick to same scale. Least innovative things going on in rc right now seems to be jacking with vehicle sizes.. multiple price points I guess. I’d rather just pay the 1000+ for fifth scale then 800 or whatever for something smaller. Im gonna call out hpi on this one and see if they really are back in the game. Make a huge trophy truck hpi!