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1/7 scale Traxxas

Now that the specs have been released, for those without access to good play areas (myself included), the ground clearance may be an issue.
 
If you're running in tall grass, clearance may be an issue. If that were my environment, I'd personally opt for a different rig. Desert trucks should also suck at the track, especially if you are competitive, entirely wrong truck setup. Can't change the geometry either..... Could you find different, stiffer springs to try to do so? You're limited with the tires now. Great for the desert, elsewhere? Now to get off the downer. If you can find a field with ruts and bumps, you'll probably be like a little kid in awe that you can go that fast, in control mind you, especially if your buddies have non dez rigs and want to race you. That is worth the price of admission.
 
I've been researching back and forth on the new UDR and the Super Baja Rey (SBR). Parts availability and pricing is always good to check out. After some initial hiccups with the Baja Rey, Losi seemed to get their chit together and I have not had any issues since. I think it goes without saying that Traxxas will be good in this dept. I did just check out and price out some replacement items for the SBR over at Horizon. Replacing the body alone is gonna run you a cool $200! Ouuuuuuuccccchhhhhhhh! A set of two tires/wheels is gonna run you $70. Those were a couple of the "big ticket" items, and I would categorize both as consumables that will need to be replaced eventually. Having said that, I was actually pleasantly surprised with pricing on other parts like the axle housing, shock towers, trans housing, etc.

It will be interesting to see where the pricing falls in comparison on the Traxxas UDR parts.
 
Another scale reference photo.

47f8093e44867add022533e2cd0a5a4a.jpg
 
I have nowhere to run one of these. None of my friends seem interested enough to get one. I already have way too many RCs. I sold my 5b after two tanks.

But I need this.
 
fabing aluminum is relatively easy.. try to find a piece of end stock that’s already giving you a finished edge to start with and base your measurements from there. use a thin gauge that is easy to bend but not so thin that it’s destroyed after running.. i like to use existing threaded holes as mount points because it saves time from drilling and tapping and looks better. two or three of them bolts holding the axle pumpkin cover on are potentially good mounting options. i might try a full length axle guard that sorta partially wraps the front leading edges of the axle housing and just use ziptyes to attach it.. replacing a busted tye is easier than repairing a damaged screw. practice drilling and tapping,it’s fun to do and you don’t need to fiddle with starting a tiny nut on the backside of anything.. just make sure you have thick enough material that the screw won’t strip. flat file all your edges and debur or bevel any sharp points. bend the aluminum using a shop vice for nice straight lines.. use a small coping saw with a metal cutting blade.
 
anyone notice in that video how the camera made it out to look like the hood is yellow? ..i kinda thought it was purposely done as a custom paint job already..lol,i think it looks good and might try it if i get the fox one..
 
I haven't been to the LHS (two hour round trip drive now, it's in my hometown) since a buddy of mine sold it. But I stopped in the other day, and it's the best the shop has ever been. He's got a UDR coming as soon as they ship. BUT, I got to see the Xmaxx up close for the first time, and I think that's more my speed for where I'd run it. I'm not buying either one, however all this chatting and new RC fever did motivate me to dig the MERV outta the garage for some indoor racing on Saturday at the new track.
 
fabing aluminum is relatively easy.. try to find a piece of end stock that’s already giving you a finished edge to start with and base your measurements from there. use a thin gauge that is easy to bend but not so thin that it’s destroyed after running.. i like to use existing threaded holes as mount points because it saves time from drilling and tapping and looks better. two or three of them bolts holding the axle pumpkin cover on are potentially good mounting options. i might try a full length axle guard that sorta partially wraps the front leading edges of the axle housing and just use ziptyes to attach it.. replacing a busted tye is easier than repairing a damaged screw. practice drilling and tapping,it’s fun to do and you don’t need to fiddle with starting a tiny nut on the backside of anything.. just make sure you have thick enough material that the screw won’t strip. flat file all your edges and debur or bevel any sharp points. bend the aluminum using a shop vice for nice straight lines.. use a small coping saw with a metal cutting blade.
Cool thanks for the tips!

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Traxxas Unlimited Desert Racer:

Length: 27.32 inches (694mm)
Front Track: 13.57 inches (345mm)
Rear Track: 13.57 inches (345mm)
Height: 10.29 inches (261mm)
Ground Clearance: 2.27 inches (58mm)
Wheelbase: 16.53 inches (420mm)
Wheels: Dual-diameter 40mm x 56/81mm
Weight: 13.4lb (6.1kg)

Losi Super Baja Rey:

Length: 30.5 in (774.7mm)
Width: 15.6 in (396.2mm)
Height: 11.0 in (279.4mm)
Ground Clearance: 3.0 in (76.2mm)
Wheelbase: 19.5 in (495.3mm)
Wheel Size: 2.9/4.0 in One Piece x 2.1 in (53.3mm)
Weight: 19.45 lbs without batteries (8.8kg)

From the below photo, it appears that Traxxas is using "track" to mean "width," when it actually mean the center-to-center distance between the tires.

80-udr_specs_front_fc34f93033357d192d5063a88b05bffb1edb1b11.jpg


For comparison, the SBR looks lower and wider, which should let it handle better but is less scale.

80-los05013t1_a4_65a93ea303039bfd761c1c5b5b38aa7498bc42f2.jpg


The Geiser-built 4WD truck:

80-justin_matney_4_wheel_drive_trophy_truck_003_eec7474ce03a91665fe73e9db87cdaa9eb85737e.jpg
 
Interesting size comparison indeed.. almost looks like the companies are directly avoiding a straight up face off between trucks? ..man,that udr wouldve been killer if it was fifth scale. Kinda wish everyone would just stick to same scale. Least innovative things going on in rc right now seems to be jacking with vehicle sizes.. multiple price points I guess. I’d rather just pay the 1000+ for fifth scale then 800 or whatever for something smaller. Im gonna call out hpi on this one and see if they really are back in the game. Make a huge trophy truck hpi!
 
On one hand i could have saved myself a lot of time if I knew this was coming a year ago, when I started to try and make my BR more scale. On the other it's an odd sized beast, so if I wanted to modify a lot of things finding compatible parts from other vendors would be pretty difficult. I really appreciate what they're trying to do here, and the upside-down chassis plate construction to get around the cage integration is pretty cleaver, as is the planetary gear setup to fight torque twist. I'm sure the bottom plate will get an aftermarket aluminum option made, help toughen it up and lower the overall CoG. That would be nice.
The choice of the Lofton scheme is both sensible (it is a popular race winner) and not, in the sense the IRL Jimco truck is setup way differently than the Rigid truck is, so it looks wrong to me lol
 
On one hand i could have saved myself a lot of time if I knew this was coming a year ago, when I started to try and make my BR more scale. On the other it's an odd sized beast, so if I wanted to modify a lot of things finding compatible parts from other vendors would be pretty difficult. I really appreciate what they're trying to do here, and the upside-down chassis plate construction to get around the cage integration is pretty cleaver, as is the planetary gear setup to fight torque twist. I'm sure the bottom plate will get an aftermarket aluminum option made, help toughen it up and lower the overall CoG. That would be nice.
The choice of the Lofton scheme is both sensible (it is a popular race winner) and not, in the sense the IRL Jimco truck is setup way differently than the Rigid truck is, so it looks wrong to me lol

Well spoken. Whoever gets desert racing started first will set the size standard. Flipped chassis is genius, effectively shortening the cab tube lengths, making the chassis stronger. Many seem to disagree with that, I'm guessing those same peeps have never scratch built a go fast rig that needs to take a beating and not bend. Its not just a matter of welding stuff together and you're done if done right. SBR reminds me more of a true short course truck, but carrying a spare. The only potential design flaw thus far with the UDR that jumps at me is glue on tires. Should have been beadlocks. Damper and coil carrier is awesome, you can set one up for compression, the other for rebound. I'm about halfway there on pulling the trigger once I see one in person.
 
..man,that udr wouldve been killer if it was fifth scale. Kinda wish everyone would just stick to same scale. Least innovative things going on in rc right now seems to be jacking with vehicle sizes.. multiple price points I guess. I’d rather just pay the 1000+ for fifth scale then 800 or whatever for something smaller. Im gonna call out hpi on this one and see if they really are back in the game. Make a huge trophy truck hpi!

I disagree. A 1/5th scale truck is larger than I really want and would barely fit in the trunk of either of my cars. Right around 1/8 scale is the sweet spot for me, and the UDR is right in the ballpark.
 
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