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1st Bomber Build

Braaap42

Newbie
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
35
Location
Nor-Cal
Looking for suggestions on shock oil weight and yeti raptor body fitment tips. Bye bye stock rtr and hello to my first build.

Vp currie rockjock 70 axles fr and rear
Vp wraith stage one kit
Insicion locker fr and rear
Locked up rear axle shafts
Vp knuckle weights
Vp rear lower links
Insicion ss 1/4" link kit
Insicion motor mount and cam
Axial hd gears 38/13 fr and rear
MM X esc with sensor wire adaptor
Tekin roc 412 hd 3100kv
HR 110mm limiter straps
Axial King shock caps
Vp 2.2 kmc wheels
Vp XD series hub caps
Vp wheel adapters .475 fr and rear
Pitbull tires
Ci foams
Proline Raptor body

Thank you,
Steve
 

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I seen pics on the net and really liked the look. I know it's been done by folks on here and that's why I asked for tips to do it. I don't want to trash it right out of the gate.


Thank you,
Steve
 
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Figured the pic posting out ��. Picked this all up from rpp yesterday and when I got home from work I packed for my trip today and got the rear axle built and the rear links on. 1 Week of my daighter racing bmx world championship and I can get back to this ��
 

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Re: 1st Bomber Build / esc help ?

Got everything built and installed. Took it out for some testing and it works great except when I let off it dam near flips over forward. Mamba X with Tekin roc 412 hd 3100kv. I have castle link and set esc to 50% brake and 30% drag brake, how can I stop this or have a little coast?

Got frustrated with esc so I paintrd and mounted the raptor body. Flat exterior with some ghosted bmx sponsors of mine and seperation stripe with normal shine from lexan
 

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Can someone help with my esc question? The truck stop way to hard when I let off and ot hit neutral point. Acts like it has full brake instantly? I am lost

Thank you in advance,
 
Thats the drag brake.

Go into castle link, switch reverse type to with reverse, then go to aux setting and last choice is rock racer/crawler mode and click that. Leave the brake and drag brake settings the same, click update and your done. Then make sure the aux wire off the esc is plugged into your 3rd channel and you can switch between rock racer mode and crawler mode. Rock racer mode is with reverse and no drag brake, and crawler mode is crawler reverse and 30% drag brake.
 
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Thats the drag brake.

Go into castle link, switch reverse type to with reverse, then go to aux setting and last choice is rock racer/crawler mode and click that. Leave the brake and drag brake settings the same, click update and your done. Then make sure the aux wire off the esc is plugged into your 3rd channel and you can switch between rock racer mode and crawler mode. Rock racer mode is with reverse and no drag brake, and crawler mode is crawler reverse and 30% drag brake.

Came here to post this as well. I have mine set to 100% rock crawler and 30% or something for rock racer. It's perfect for trailing vs. crawling. If I'm just out for a hike or bashing it around, rock racer setting works well. A lot easier on the drive train. Rock crawling, being set at 100%, is perfect for scaling rocks and inclined terrain.

Also, be sure your firmware is updated from Castle if you haven't already! "thumbsup"

Really nice looking Bomber you've got there!!!
 
So you can set the drag brake different for each mode? I don't know much about mamba esc and appreciate the help and advice.

And thank for compliment slowmethinks
 
So you can set the drag brake different for each mode? I don't know much about mamba esc and appreciate the help and advice.

Depending on what remote your using, you can go up in percents when your in crawler mode. But say a stock bomber remote, can only do on/off.
 
I have a spektrum dx4s . My confusion was that I was thinking when I hit the switch from race to crawl I could have the drag change also and it is something you setup with castle link
 
Yes, you can. If you set up a certain switch on your remote (nothing in castle link), the drag brake will go up/down percents. I dont have a dx4s so I cant help with that.
 
Got to run the bomber some and so far everything is good. I think I need some longer rear top link rod ends to better the drive shaft alignment
 

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