Aluminum servo mount, needed or waste of $$

[big_poppa49]

I havent really noticed this until I installed my digital high torque metal gear servo that at full throw, the whole servo tray shifts, now I can eliminate the problem just by simply dialing down the D/R rate, but I feel like I will loose some steering. I have the High clearance knuckles and CVDs installed so im getting maximum throw. Im just wondering if this aluminum servo plate vs. the stock plastic one would eliminate or help reduce that swag left and right when at full throw? Or will it still do this regardless???

Thoughts?

 

[svt923]

If you see your whole servo moving then your servo's motion is probably exceeding the steering throw of the knuckles. Dial back the end points on your radio, you never want your servo to try to push past the physical limits of the linkage since that is a quick way to kill your servo.

The aluminum servo mounts aren't necessary because its more likely the posts that the servo plate sits on are flexing rather than the servo mounts.

 

[GravelDuster]

Yep. Set your end points. My Hitec 7950TH snapped my plastic knuckles and chubs like a twig because I didn't have my endpoints set. If you are running anything remotely powerful (300 oz/in plus) you need to set you travel and end points in your radio. Some of the ultra powerful servos out these days can literally rip your truck apart.

 

[Redbone]

Servo plate on my Honcho and Rubicon are aluminum from the factory the mounting tabs are plastic. Are you sure the screws that hold the plate to the axle are tight? Or possibllly starting to strip? And yes set your end points if your TX allows it.

 

[big_poppa49]

Servo plate on my Honcho and Rubicon are aluminum from the factory the mounting tabs are plastic. Are you sure the screws that hold the plate to the axle are tight? Or possibllly starting to strip? And yes set your end points if your TX allows it.

Yea I think your right, I have the Rubicon RTR and come to think of it the plate may be aluminum, but im positive the mount tabs are plastic.

I will just dial my EPA back down then because I dont want to risk damaging the servo. Just for giggles though it looks like I can pick up a set of aluminum mount posts for cheap, I might get them anyway. As far as everything being tight, im sure of that as I had it all apart not long ago.

 

[TacoCrawler]

reducing endpoint/travel adjustment/throw
will help a bunch. (mechanical /or electrical)

But mine still seems to work loose.

So I have to beef mine up as well.

Alloy mounting horns help...
but I would go one step farther
and suggest purchasing alloy horns that mount to the plate
using 4 screws instead of just two.

for ie:

plus a tiny dab of CA glue on the screw threads
that screw down the plate onto the plastic axle truss/housing.
blue Loctite on the servo mounting screws - metal to metal threads.

^ is what I'm thinking of getting and doing

tho' spending less coin to do it would be more appealing ;-)

 

[Redbone]

These would do the trick just fine and save a little money. A drop of thread lock and their not coming loose.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-1-10th-S...313891?hash=item1a08c58c23:g:g6wAAOSw~bFWOsIK

 

[big_poppa49]

These would do the trick just fine and save a little money. A drop of thread lock and their not coming loose.
RC 1 10th SCX10 Jeep Wrangler Aluminum Servo Mount 2P Axial AX80028 5 Silver | eBay

Thats what I was thinking about getting. And using blue loctite