meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
New to the TF2 and RC4wd, well acquainted with Axial and Vaterra products.
I'm assembling my TF2 and had couple questions regarding the axles.
I normally shim the space between the pinion bearings to help the bearing share side loads from impacts to the driveshaft and such.
I found that a 5x10x4 bearing fits snugly between the bearings, but holds the outer pinion bearing about .2mm from fully seated in the 3rd member. So I figured that I could use a 5x10x3 bearing and approx. .7mm worth of shims. Does anyone see any downsides to adding a 3rd pinion bearing?
I already can't stand the miserable max. steering angle. It seems that the dogbones can "fall" into the slots on the cups and in doing such offer much more steering angle than the rest of the rotation when the outer perimeter of the cup rubs on the inner shaft of the ball. Is it feasible to use a carbide bit to slightly shorten the cups to allow for more angle? I'm concerned that the pin might come out of the opposing slot when at full lock if the cup is shortened. The closed knuckle design makes it hard to tell if this is allowable.
I see that the "upgraded' rc4wd cvds claim more steering angle. But are they actually any stronger?
On my particular axle the front carrier kind of floats around inside the housing like the bearings aren't actually tight in their lands. I don't seem to be having much luck convincing RC4wd that 1.5mm is not acceptable play for such a critical part, and I can't find a housing in stock anywhere. I'm trying not to purchase an entire front axle to get out of my dilemma. Any ideas?
I've found a couple people who've swapped over to XR knuckles and shafts, and while that seems like it might be the best solution it also seems to require more precision machining than I'm capable of.
I'm assembling my TF2 and had couple questions regarding the axles.
I normally shim the space between the pinion bearings to help the bearing share side loads from impacts to the driveshaft and such.
I found that a 5x10x4 bearing fits snugly between the bearings, but holds the outer pinion bearing about .2mm from fully seated in the 3rd member. So I figured that I could use a 5x10x3 bearing and approx. .7mm worth of shims. Does anyone see any downsides to adding a 3rd pinion bearing?
I already can't stand the miserable max. steering angle. It seems that the dogbones can "fall" into the slots on the cups and in doing such offer much more steering angle than the rest of the rotation when the outer perimeter of the cup rubs on the inner shaft of the ball. Is it feasible to use a carbide bit to slightly shorten the cups to allow for more angle? I'm concerned that the pin might come out of the opposing slot when at full lock if the cup is shortened. The closed knuckle design makes it hard to tell if this is allowable.
I see that the "upgraded' rc4wd cvds claim more steering angle. But are they actually any stronger?
On my particular axle the front carrier kind of floats around inside the housing like the bearings aren't actually tight in their lands. I don't seem to be having much luck convincing RC4wd that 1.5mm is not acceptable play for such a critical part, and I can't find a housing in stock anywhere. I'm trying not to purchase an entire front axle to get out of my dilemma. Any ideas?
I've found a couple people who've swapped over to XR knuckles and shafts, and while that seems like it might be the best solution it also seems to require more precision machining than I'm capable of.