Best automotive paint for New Bright Body?

[Kenworth]

I'm going to paint a New Bright body, and I want as nice of a gloss finish as is possible. I don't understand the different types of paints, what works on plastic and what doesn't.

I will probably buy my paint at Autozone or Napa, and don't mind spending $$$. What type of paint should I look or ask for? Enamel, lacquer, or what? I'm going to do a Ford silver/grey truck paint, and don't mind different coats, steps with primer, clear, etc.

What would the ultimate choices be, as to primer, paint, and clear?

I'm very familiar with adhesive and paint removal, from different types of surfaces, and realize the different resilience of different types of plastics- this is one of the worst plastics to remove stuff from, as thinners and alcholhol can eat into it. To sand it I'm just going to rough it up for the primer with 1000 grit sand paper. I've been so careful with the sticker removal, I want the paint to be excellent the first time.

Thanks for your suggestions!

 

[binaryterror]

Honestly, if they have a color you want the Tamiya paint line is quite good quality. Throw on a clear and you will get the desired gloss of an automotive finish if you prep and take the time.

 

[War Pig]

I use the PlastiKote car color almost exclusively. Primer first, sand with 400-600 grit paper, 2-3 coats of color and 2-3 coats of clear. It's a lacquer based system, and has worked well for me.

Welcome to PlastiKote

I also use Testors one coat lacquer if I want bright vibrant metallics. They can be found at hobby shops.

A couple paint jobs I've done with these spray paints:

 

[War Pig]

It was also OD



Silver and black



Gold and silver



And 2 different shades of red.....she's been around!

It's going to be blue again

 

[TacoCrawler]

plastic kote works purdy good
and has some flex to it.

I painted some plastic lawn chairs using it...
and no matter the impact or flex...
the plastic kote stay put.

but I wouldn't use automotive paint
as it does not generally include a flex agent.
And will likely chip or crack on impact.

It's probable that the paint utilized for rice rockets
and off road motorcycles would work well too.
As that paint is applied to the flexible abs type plastics.

^ kinda pricey tho'
and not easily obtained in rattle can form.

So IMO the plastic kote is the best
if looking to spend the least.

Plus it's easily obtained at most local retailer's
in rattle can form, if air brushing is not your thing.

 

[Kenworth]

I use the PlastiKote car color almost exclusively.
[/URL]

WarPig, I'm the kinda guy where if you're selling snake oil, if you post enough pictures that are fun to look at, I'm gonna buy some. "thumbsup"

It looks like you have enough experience that I will start with your suggestion and give the Plasticote a try, I was happy to buy an expensive automotive type but it's obvious you've got the experience putting it on and putting it to use. Thanks for the photos, stuff like that is what I was hoping to find on the forum when I signed up (a day ago). Fun and helpful, I'll post my impressions once I try it.

Thanks again!

 

[Dornbox]

PPG's line of DBC 2 stage paints is awesome and all professional automotive level paints have flexing agents in them. The hard part is you'd have to use activators and reducers to use them which gets spendy. A 2 part epoxy based primer would be the first step. PPG has a "Shop Line" that is cheap and the primer is super. After that there are several ways you can go but they would all involve 2 or three coats or parts of "the system". Unless you were exceptional with an air brush or small detail gun, you'd likely bury all the detail in the body using automotive paints unless you used a metallic or candy color. If you were experienced with auto paint, I'd say go for it unless you wanted to paint on lexan or polycarbonate without a primer coat / adhesion promoter. The hobby paints are hands down the best for those. But if you don't have the chops with multipart auto paints, you'll never see benefit. Top quality auto paint is all in the clear coat... and lots of it. unless you're using pearls and metallics then it's in the base too but I digress. On an plastic RC body, you want to use as little color as possible to get the job done. War Pig has it dialed in."thumbsup"