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Blingers, ti-stick, Japanese looking, world’s edition, berg super, thing!

KING BLING

RCC Addict
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Messages
1,193
Location
RENO
The Pro-line World championships are right around the corner. I haven’t done anything to my Clod based super in 3+ years, so I figured it was time for updating. After going to the ColoradoVanquish Products La Guerra En Rocas Rojo competition, I definitely caught the super bug again. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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Once I got home I went to work on the old girl. <o:p></o:p>
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I started shaving the clod axles for more ground clearance. Shave the knuckles and tubes for better steering angle. Ordered some new tires, electronics, etc. Then I tore into the axles and realized my thunder tech cvd’s were the original version and didn’t have much steering angle at all. Well if you aren’t aware thunder tech discontinued their cvd’s for the clod. :shock: THAT SUCKS! <o:p></o:p>
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To make a long story short, I decided the clod was a waist of time and started thinking about how to do a Newage Berg super that will hold up.<o:p></o:p>
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Below is a list of what I would like this build to accomplish:<o:p></o:p>
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SUPERS ARE BACK! <o:p></o:p>
50 degrees of steering"thumbsup" <o:p></o:p>
17.5” wheelbase<o:p></o:p>
Low CG<o:p></o:p>
Lightweight<o:p></o:p>
Ti-stick chassis:oops:<o:p></o:p>
Custom HB tires<o:p></o:p>
Lots of ground clearance<o:p></o:p>
50:1 crawl ratio (calculated for my custom tire )<o:p></o:p>
ti25a.jpg



japrc.jpg




This is a list of all the parts I am using: <o:p></o:p>
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Axles:

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Newage Berg axles-
2 Berg long tubes tt09-
2- HPI 5x12mm screws 94754-
1 CKRC HD aluminum hexes- <o:p></o:p>
2 Sets of long side super 300m-cvd shafts-
2-10T metric pinions.

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Steering and Chassis:
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2 CKRC “OTA” steering kits with custom tierods-
2 sets of berg FR12 steering mounts-
Titanium 3al .039 x.75 tube- Titanium Joe
2-ax80005 rod end kit for the steering-
1-axa1331 rod end balls-
1-axa1415 3mm spacers- <o:p></o:p>
1-piece of 1.5” x 1.5”x .125 aluminum angle from lowes-

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Electronics:

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2 NEW CKRC 45T”Twister” hand wound motors-
2 Futaba S9157 digital servos- <o:p></o:p>
2 HD aluminum servo arms-
2 Tekin FXR’s-
2 Castle S-bec's- ran in parallel?
1 Futaba 6EX radio-
1 CKRC 11.1v 1300mah “30C” lipo-

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Misc:
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CKRC HD Baja body-
Dubro 5mm tap kit- <o:p></o:p>
Dubro 3mm tap kit-
1-Deans 12-ga wire-
1-Deans plugs-
3- sets of Hot Bodies rovers (white)-
2- Traxxas Jato wheels (5576)-
A1 wheel weights-
1-CKRC Velcro battery straps-
Lots of misc 3mm hardware-


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I started with the axles. I used berg long axle tubes to bring the track width out from 8.5” to 10.5”.
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I clocked the axles to approx 30 degrees. When you flip an axle around to use it in the rear, the lower link mounts hang down towards the rocks. Since I was not going to use a link chassis I decided to flip the axle tubes around. That required sanding a clearance area on the backside of the tubes to clear the housings. It also needed drilling and tapping new 3mm holes in one of the tubes.



ti1.jpg


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<o:p>Im a little worried about the berg 3mm knuckle screws holding up, so when the tubes were off I drilled and tapped them out to 5mm. I used some HPI 94754 5x12mm screws and sanded them down to 10mm. It worked great, but I think they will need locktite to hold them in place.<o:p></o:p>
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Gearing has been an issue I have been facing from the start. I found that no one makes 9t, 10t, or 11 tooth metric pinions. The gearing in a berg axle with a 12t pinion is 39.9to1. I run this in my 2.2 berg with 5.25” tall tires. I am thinking of running 6.5” tall tires so I need to get the gearing to 50.6to1 to compensate.
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I have tried to mix and match the gears from hot racing axles but it just doesn’t work and their gear cutting is crap :???:. I am working with a manufacturer to get some pinions available for sale. 10T pinions will put me at 50to1. <o:p></o:p>
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I’m waiting on the 300M long shafts to arrive so I’ll work on getting the axles finished up and then fabricate some chassis mounts, and steering.

ti2.jpg
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CKRC berg Hi-steer knuckles


ti3.jpg


I will try to get the chassis done tonight. </o:p>
 
With the handwounds and big tires i see third gear being a problem. Good luck though."thumbsup"
 
I have been wanting a super, and a berg makes the most sense to me. I would only need one set of spare parts. And put me on the list for the 10 tooth pinions.
 
The chassis mounts took some time to get done. There are simpler ways to do this, but I didn’t want to ever worry about them breaking off. There were 3 reasons for this.




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  • There needs to be enough separation between the clamping mounts to counter the forces from the ti-stick. <o:p></o:p>
  • The front axle is getting clocked a little differently so I can get some caster in the front end. <o:p></o:p>
  • The chassis needs to sit as close to the axles centerline as possible to better eliminate the rear steer effect of a chassis of this type. <o:p></o:p>
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I used a piece of 1.5”x1.5”x.125 aluminum angle to make them. After making some paperboard templates, this is what I came up with.

ti4.jpg
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Two 3mm spacers were used in between the mounts and housing so they sit flat. I’m going to add some rod ends to the other side later for more support. <o:p></o:p>

ti5.jpg


ti6.jpg



It’s fairly visible in the pictures how much the front and rear mounts sit differently. You can also see the new battery plate and mocked-up tie rods. The battery plate was made from the same aluminum angle and was attached to the housing with a 3mm screw, and a berg FR12 tube clamp. <o:p></o:p>
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The tie rods were made from some of our “OTA” tierods. They’re bolted together for mock up, but the new steel ones should be here soon. If the berg super gets popular, we may offer a super conversion kit online. Including the longer tie rods, knuckles, tubes and metric 10t pinions.

I also finished installing the CKRC “OTA” steering kit. You can hardly tell in the photos, but the 4-link tab is cut off. I have no use for it. <o:p></o:p>
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For steering power I went with (2) Futaba S9157 digital servos and our aluminum servo arms. I’ve have great luck with the Futaba servos and I think they will be adequate for my needs.

Its getting there.






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I finished the chassis today also. If you are familiar with titanium this stuff is very resilient to anything. Hard to cut, nearly impossible to bend, and perfect for the chassis.
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Grinding on it also makes some awesome white sparks. I used a friends band saw to cut the ¾” tube directly in half. So far the flex feels great. Not too much, not to little. I may have to play with the thickness of the cut as I add weight though.
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The wheelbase is 17”. With the mounts where they are, it made the ti-stick only 13” long. It’s attached with 5mm button head screws and nylock nuts. In the pictures you can see the longer ones standing out of the chassis. Those will be used for the body mounts.

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The body is on. I love the way it looks so far. The next project is going to suck.:-( cutting and gluing the custom tires.



ti10.jpg


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ti11a.jpg


ti12a.jpg


ti13a.jpg
 
Jake what is your plan for dealing with motors being offset completely to one side (so your truck doesn't end up 17" wide)?
 
Jake what is your plan for dealing with motors being offset completely to one side (so your truck doesn't end up 17" wide)?

Im not sure what you mean? the motors are on opposite sides.

The Pimp Cane returns.
"thumbsup" I'm still sporting it on the original super. The titanium is the s**t though. I twisted it over 180 degrees and it bounces back without breaking it or bending it. Its ridiculous.
 
Super cool. Lol no pun intended.

Those S9157's are awesome. One will flip my super around like nothing.

You going with the Desert Dogs for the tires?
Those tires flat work with the moab sidewall. Super soft foams and a 8.5lb super (mine) are the trick. A narrow super tire is great.
I have gotten excellent results with them.
Good luck if go that route. About 8 hours of glue, hold, repeat.
Just curious.

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i had to search desert dogs? i had no idea. do you like them?

My jaw was dropping last time I ran them.

I had just switched the foams to some old losi MST blue foams (maxx sized tire ones). Cut those down a bit to narrow them up. Thats it nothing else. And I took alot of the weight off my super. Like I said about 8-8.5lbs now. You can hang those tires on edges and they bite just like the 2.2's. The moab sides keep them from having to run a stiff outer foam.

I'll be watching this build for sure.
 
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