Body filler?

[Synister_Intent]

I was watching the video on YouTube of olive RC's rat rod build and when he is working on the body he spreads a putty over shell that has a pink hue and looks to be rather fluid to work with, anyone have any idea what it is that he is working with?

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[dougman51]

Probably just bondo, the hardener is red and turns it pink.

 

[Synister_Intent]

Doesn't bondo destroy styrene?

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[onebullet]

link to video?

 

[jeff22]

I just did a Tamiya Bullhead body and filled in the sunroof and some holes in the sides.

I used Bondo Glazing Putty that comes in a tube and doesn't require any mixing or anything. It is red but I wouldn't consider it fluid, closest I can compare it to would be like toothpaste consistency.

It works pretty good but you really can't put it on too thick or it cracks. The first time I tried I went way to thick and it kept cracking so I had to take it all off by sanding it back down to the plastic.

It works great though if you do thin layers and fill in most of the deep gaps with some styrene then use the putty over top to smooth things out.

 

[Synister_Intent]

https://youtu.be/h7icQS2qRws

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[DemonsGT]

I used stuff called "Green Putty" you can find it all over ebay and LHS. Really like how it applied, and sands really easy.

 

[onebullet]

its probably just flexible plastic glaze.

Another option would be squadron putty or green stuff. You can thin it down a bit and it flows onto the work.

 

[Noland]

I just did a Tamiya Bullhead body and filled in the sunroof and some holes in the sides.

I used Bondo Glazing Putty that comes in a tube and doesn't require any mixing or anything. It is red but I wouldn't consider it fluid, closest I can compare it to would be like toothpaste consistency.

It works pretty good but you really can't put it on too thick or it cracks. The first time I tried I went way to thick and it kept cracking so I had to take it all off by sanding it back down to the plastic.

It works great though if you do thin layers and fill in most of the deep gaps with some styrene then use the putty over top to smooth things out.

yes this is what I use for my hardbodys. its considered lacquer glazing putty or nitro stan is what most body men know it by,thats a brand name. you can get it at your local auto parts or Walmart. that's going to be bondo brand. its easy to work with sense you don't have to mix hardener with it and sands very easy. for best results let dry for atleast 72 hrs. it is known to shrink and crack especially if applied too heavy. that's why real 1.1 bodyshops haven't used it in 30 yrs . I don't really understand why they sell it still because its garbage for real car repairs but Ive have had very good luck using it on models and scale trucks. sense the repairs are so much smaller and they aren't exposed to constant sunlight and weather.