Bomber gear issue

[raddad1975]

OK so I've been having all kinds of issues with my Bomber last few days. First gears sounded bad so tore apart trans and transfer case and greased with udder butter after when I ran it it seemed all was good till I ran it in deep water hole and it went full stupid on me so let it dry over night and all seemed good ran it last night and it sounded like the brushless motor was just screaming and not happy. Took the front cover off and hit it with compressed air and put it back together and all seemed fine. Started putting motor back in just now and it is clicking really bad like bad mesh but the gear is bent all to hell has a bad wobble to it so the gears can't mesh right. I don't know the name of the gear at the moment still learning but it's a 64t gear that has the slipper pads of it. The pads also are glazed why would that be have only been running it for a couple weeks. My scx10 deadbolt doesn't look like these do. What would happen if I put the 56t spur in the Bomber and put the 64t in the deadbolt. Would it make the Bomber faster or slower it's running a 10t pinion.

 

[JSterrett]

56t would make it faster than the 64t...

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[durok]

That's the spur gear that you are speaking of - in the RR10 manual on page 49 there is a chart that shows you what gear ratios are created by changing pinions, a tooth at a time, and spurs - 4 teeth at a time.

A 56t spur/10t pinion is about the same as a 64t spur/12t pinion. That is the gearing of the kit version of the RR10 Bomber out of the box.

Your slipper pads most likely got glazed very quickly because the spur has a wobble. I'd experiment with how tight you are adjusting the slipper clutch when you switch to the 56t.

Unfortunately, even with the advent of "waterproof" electronics, any time you completely submerge them you are taking a big risk in causing issues.

II realize this situation is seemingly purely gear-related, but if you get mud and grit in-between your gears it can cause problems down the line.

I'd take a good look at the teeth of the gears and carefully reassemble them with that 56t spur.

Go easy on the throttle for a while, as it will be faster now, but it should still be an acceptable ratio - close to a 64t//12t, and Holmes has said his 3500kv PP 540-size should run that gearing safely on 3S.

Small-iish pinion sizes wear more quickly as there is slightly less surface contact between them and the spur. If you are OK with a bit more top-end, I'd recommend a 64t/12t for longer life

Hope this helps!

 

[theTman]

If you want to play submarine you best be ready to dismantle your rig afterward and dry out/lube all the bearings. Rubber seals on bearings won't keep water out, and they can get rusty inside.

It's a matter of water pressure pushing water into everything when you actually go underwater. Most things "waterproof" are only waterproof until a certain amount of pressure breaks the seals.

 

[raddad1975]

That's the spur gear that you are speaking of - in the RR10 manual on page 49 there is a chart that shows you what gear ratios are created by changing pinions, a tooth at a time, and spurs - 4 teeth at a time.

A 56t spur/10t pinion is about the same as a 64t spur/12t pinion. That is the gearing of the kit version of the RR10 Bomber out of the box.

Your slipper pads most likely got glazed very quickly because the spur has a wobble. I'd experiment with how tight you are adjusting the slipper clutch when you switch to the 56t.

Unfortunately, even with the advent of "waterproof" electronics, any time you completely submerge them you are taking a big risk in causing issues.

II realize this situation is seemingly purely gear-related, but if you get mud and grit in-between your gears it can cause problems down the line.

I'd take a good look at the teeth of the gears and carefully reassemble them with that 56t spur.

Go easy on the throttle for a while, as it will be faster now, but it should still be an acceptable ratio - close to a 64t//12t, and Holmes has said his 3500kv PP 540-size should run that gearing safely on 3S.

Small-iish pinion sizes wear more quickly as there is slightly less surface contact between them and the spur. If you are OK with a bit more top-end, I'd recommend a 64t/12t for longer life

Hope this helps!

Thank you. I didn't realize the manual had the gearing chart I will be looking at that. I got the 56t mounted but couldn't use the 10t pinion gear as the diameter was smaller and wouldn't mesh right ( had way to much play would have stripped the spur) so went with a the 12t that came stock. Havent ran it yet but plan to when my son gets home from work. See how it does seemed good inside the house so we will see. I sanded the 64t spur real lightly and mounted it in my deadbolt for now barely fits in there but will work for now

 

[TEMPLE]

You need to move the motor closer to mesh. You will figure it out.

 

[raddad1975]

You need to move the motor closer to mesh. You will figure it out.

I tried everything I could think. Spent about an hour on it and always got the same conclusion mesh way off to where if I got in a little bind crawling it would of stripped the spur all to hell. What am I not seeing or not doing right

 

[raddad1975]

Thank you. I didn't realize the manual had the gearing chart I will be looking at that. I got the 56t mounted but couldn't use the 10t pinion gear as the diameter was smaller and wouldn't mesh right ( had way to much play would have stripped the spur) so went with a the 12t that came stock. Havent ran it yet but plan to when my son gets home from work. See how it does seemed good inside the house so we will see. I sanded the 64t spur real lightly and mounted it in my deadbolt for now barely fits in there but will work for now

So I ran it with the 12/56 and it was a lot faster on flat ground tried crawling with it and just barely got it bound on a climb and stripped the spur. So what should I put in it. Should I go with steel delrin or plastic. What brand holds up good and where should I go to get it. Don't want to get junk lol. Wife told me to make a list of all the metal gears I am gonna need so I need so some help yall. Don't want to be breaking stuff all the time

 

[raddad1975]

And where can I get slipper pads or what can I make my own out of or do I even need the pads and can eliminate them altogether.

 

[theTman]

Strange you stripped the spur that easily. Was the spur from the other rig a 32 pitch or 48 pitch toothed gear? The bomber uses has 32 pitch toothed gears. 32 pitch and 48 pitch gears don't work together.

 

[raddad1975]

Strange you stripped the spur that easily. Was the spur from the other rig a 32 pitch or 48 pitch toothed gear? The bomber uses has 32 pitch toothed gears. 32 pitch and 48 pitch gears don't work together.

I believe it 2as a 32 pitch. It's what came stock in my scx10 deadbolt. I've had it about a year now and it looked to be in good shape so I don't know. Not sure on what brand to go with to replace and upgrade to something stronger

 

[durok]

What kv is your brushless? And what LiPo, 2S or 3S?

I'd run 12t pinion, 64t spur. Some people run a Robinson Racing Absolute Pinion. Axial spurs aren't that bad, really - but Robinson does make a hardcore hardened steel Gen3 Slipper-Eliminator Spur. It needs the Robinson Xtra-Hard carbon steel pinion.

Metal motor mounts? Your motor can flex out of the proper mesh with the stock plastic. Incision is nicely priced, but lots of brands out there.

Internal transmission gears are usually pretty good as is. Hot Racing does make upgraded hardened ones.

So - I would get the motor mount & cam - some sell both together, Incision sells each piece separately.

Then decide, new Axial plastic spur? I would stick with 64t / 12t for reasons I stated before. It will bring the down about to where you had it before.

I think you need to try the 64t/12t after you install the mount. It may fix the issue by itself. Both of your spurs may be too damaged to get good mesh again. Inspect - or take to hobby shop and compare to new ones teeth profile and depth.

You could drop the money on the Robinson setup - that spur ain't cheap! Pinion isn't that much.

 

[raddad1975]

What kv is your brushless? And what LiPo, 2S or 3S?

I'd run 12t pinion, 64t spur. Some people run a Robinson Racing Absolute Pinion. Axial spurs aren't that bad, really - but Robinson does make a hardcore hardened steel Gen3 Slipper-Eliminator Spur. It needs the Robinson Xtra-Hard carbon steel pinion.

Metal motor mounts? Your motor can flex out of the proper mesh with the stock plastic. Incision is nicely priced, but lots of brands out there.

Internal transmission gears are usually pretty good as is. Hot Racing does make upgraded hardened ones.

So - I would get the motor mount & cam - some sell both together, Incision sells each piece separately.

Then decide, new Axial plastic spur? I would stick with 64t / 12t for reasons I stated before. It will bring the down about to where you had it before.

I think you need to try the 64t/12t after you install the mount. It may fix the issue by itself. Both of your spurs may be too damaged to get good mesh again. Inspect - or take to hobby shop and compare to new ones teeth profile and depth.

You could drop the money on the Robinson setup - that spur ain't cheap! Pinion isn't that much.

I'm running the holmes hobbies trail master Bl pro 540 3300kv. As for battery I'm running a Rage 5200 30c 3s lipo

 

[durok]

I'm running the holmes hobbies trail master Bl pro 540 3300kv. As for battery I'm running a Rage 5200 30c 3s lipo

Given that, I would recommend doing the above. Again, the metal motor mount and a new Axial 64t spur- Axial sells new slipper pads separately for it. The problem with the Bomber is that most aftermarket spurs won't work without modifications, except that somewhat high-dollar Robinson (because it eliminates the slipper entirely). I'd stay with a 12t pinion, and as long as it's a 32pitch - a Robinson Absolute for the plastic or the Xtra-Hard for the Gen3 spur.

Your motor has an 1/8th inch motor shaft, so if you get the Xtra-Hard, look for that version or you'll have to run an internal pinion reducer on the 5mm shaft version, which can be hard to find.