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Brass weight opinions

SuperDutyScaler

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Apr 7, 2014
Messages
191
Location
South Jersey
I'll start by saying I used the search function and didnt get many hits...will say all these years the search function is not that great honestly.
SO I drone my new defender on lunch yesterday at a town hiking trails where I was working. As we know the defender is super light up front, and on 95% of hills the front end lifts! I'm not removing anything from my rig and will be adding a few more scale accessories to the body. What's the best bang for the buck brass and what places to add it? At the moment I'm looking at the rings that bolt behind the wheel hex....amazon has no name brands with good reviews? Also looking at front bumper mount in brass?
OR I have like four pounds of stick on lead wheels weights I've been wanting to use. I could stick them on the chassis towards the front to get this big girl down on all fours

AND LOVING THE 2 SPEED AND LOCKING DIFFS! Never seen the need for 2speed but now that I have it ITS AWESOME! The locking riffs are just for fun. Males me pick lines better and use the tires grip and suspension movement to climb/mud bog. If she looses moment ya flip the lever and away we go
 
I got all my brass for my Defender off Amazon. Chubs, inner an outer portals up front and outer covers only in the rear. World of difference. The fit was fine over all. I had to open up some one or two bearing areas for a better fitment but about 30 with a Dremel and I was good. I also did all mine with Brass Black to get rid of the bright color which I'm not a fan of on a truck.

I also replaced the stock plastic rims with steelies what are much heavier and also contributed to much better performance.

Just a quick note. With portals and brass covers, not all wheels will fit when you're done so just research what you're getting if you upgrade the wheels.
 
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Bow house also makes an lcg battery tray. Hot racing makes a battery relocation tray for the front but it's like 60 bucks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
I like the SSD portal brass. Fit and finish top notch. I run them in the fronts.

My advice is do upgrades in stages then test so see improvements.

Don’t just throw the entire shebang at it and call it good. You don’t learn anything that way.

With your defender you “should” be able to run a small pack, 1550 etc, in the front. Would gain you weight up front.

I would look into that as well.

Again, do things in stages / small steps.
 
I got all my brass for my Defender off Amazon. Chubs, inner an outer portals up front and outer covers only in the rear. World of difference. The fit was fine over all. I had to open up some one or two bearing areas for a better fitment but about 30 with a Dremel and I was good. I also did all mine with Brass Black to get rid of the bright color which I'm not a fan of on a truck.

I also replaced the stock plastic rims with steelies what are much heavier and also contributed to much better performance.

Just a quick note. With portals and brass covers, not all wheels will fit when you're done so just research what you're getting if you upgrade the wheels.
Got any pics of brass black end-result?? I personally dont care for "gold-ish" looking parts either

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!
 
I have this exact no-name set (which is either knocked off or just non-branded Samix) on my Defender, and have zero complaints. No fitment issues whatsoever, parts just bolt right on. They've been wearing really well to boot.

Impossible to beat that price, as Samix is $160 and YR is $180 for the same kit.
 
I have this exact no-name set (which is either knocked off or just non-branded Samix) on my Defender, and have zero complaints. No fitment issues whatsoever, parts just bolt right on. They've been wearing really well to boot.



Impossible to beat that price, as Samix is $160 and YR is $180 for the same kit.
....its ALL just a pain in the "brass" if u ask me! [emoji1787]

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Play with the stick on weights you have and see how much you want.

If you want to keep the body you will need more weight low to offset the heavy body.

Once you think you have the weight right with your stick on weights (use zip ties to wrap them around you axles) start replacing it with brass.

I comp so I have stick on weights in my wheel, I go slow.

You go fast so you probably don't want to put weight in your wheels. You want to add weight to your axles. The lower you add the weight the better. I would favor heavier axles over heavier bumpers.

If you need lost of weight you probably want metal axles, esp up front. Don't think just because you get metal axles upfront you also need them in the rear.

Overdrive will also help, ALLOT.

Try to add your heavier scale accessories towards the front.
 
Got any pics of brass black end-result?? I personally dont care for "gold-ish" looking parts either

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!


d5d700ab3acfc0d780457cbf2c25f313.jpg

I don’t have the Chubs on this TRX4 but the inner and outer portal covers started out bright brass. I’m actually surprised more of it hasn’t scratched off. The Brass Black is pretty cool in that you can just touch it with a Qtip when needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
d5d700ab3acfc0d780457cbf2c25f313.jpg

I don’t have the Chubs on this TRX4 but the inner and outer portal covers started out bright brass. I’m actually surprised more of it hasn’t scratched off. The Brass Black is pretty cool in that you can just touch it with a Qtip when needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Works better than a sharpie:
soa.jpg
 
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