As promised here are some tips which i observed during the build:
1. the chassis sudu mod 3d
i bought from dravtech
www.dravtech.net
the reason why is:
1) it is in europe so i didnt have to pay customs
2) Samu Sarka placed in top 3 in the 2016 worlds comp
3) i like the new 3d print technology
4) quality and flexibility is simply awesome
there is nothing particulary to say, everything is intuitive, you get also printed plan how to assemble including screws and other stuff to complete the chassis build
i took from them also servo mount, and electronic trays, battery holder and wheels. Be carefull with the electronic tray, ask them to send you a special version for the sudu 3d as the one which i ordered is not fitting, it is used in the pro version. Otherwise everything fits perfectly.
2. the axles Bully 2 and knuckle weights
from
www.rc4wd.com
check the screws and glue them, instalation of the motors, links without any problems, be carefull with the shocks will talk about it later.
Generally if you order any stuff from US be prepared to pay customs which are not insignificant amout in the budget. At least in my case. Maybe it will differ from country to country.
3. Links
i took them from
www.dluxfab.com/
perfect quality, take also the rod ends as the shipping was 8$. Be sure that you choose the right links for sudu mod 3d
4. Wheels and tires voodoo pin blue dot + hubs, motors team brood apocalypse 55t
wheels are from
www.dravtech.net
tires from
http://fanatic-rc.com/
hubs
http://fanatic-rc.com/
motors
http://fanatic-rc.com/
there is a great video in youtube from Eric on how to glue the tires/wheels link is here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VbVoj3RiFo&t=10648s
my comment is to use the mid density glue if its too liquid you will not be able to glue it properly as either you will give too much glue or you will have problem to have it under control
HUBS from vanquish are great BUT dont forget if you are from europe to buy also the screws as the size of the holes dont match to M3 screws its different sizing. take them from the fanatic-rc or in your local rc shop.
5. Electronics - esc's sidewinder micro 2, servo HITEC HS 7942TH, BEC castle 10a
esc's, BEC from
www.pvmodel.cz
servo from
www.peckamodel.cz
castle link from
www.rcking.eu
Generally electronics setup is the most challenging stuff after the soldering
Buy the castle link its really worth it as you can program ESC/BEC in PC with grafical interface and you know exactly what you have changed. If you use MAC you need to have installed parralels or bootcamp with Win as it was in my case.
Do all your setup of the electronics before you do any soldering!!!. The setup of the ESC's via the castle link is pretty straight fwd. there is no issues. Update the firmware if its available, change the motor type etc. Do not forget to change the setting for the BEC if you are using high voltage servo as the bec is set by default to 5.1V, in my case i changed it to 7.4V so the servo can operate with much stronger torgue. See the instructions of operation of your servo.
Buy also the aluminium horn with M3 hole which fits to your servo and be carefull with the instalation as i screw up one horn. Have to wait for the new one...damn
Calibrate the esc's one by one like i did most probably due to old transmiter M11 sanwa and reciever. You can try it also both at once if you are using newer transmiter. Dont forget to pair the transmiter with receiver so you dont get surprised that it wont work
6. Shocks axial
from
www.pvmodel.cz
i am not happy with the shocks as there is issue to mount them in front see the pic. in this thread. There will be soon shocks from
www.dravtech.net and i assume they will fit much better. In a meanwhile i will buy bent rod ends to avoid the touching with the servo and battery holder. Currently i will use the stock springs.
7. Soldering
for the soldering if you are not a pro. buy a 3rd hand like this for example , it cost 5 euro in any hobby market and it does the job great. I am using 2 solder machine one 15wats and 100wats, its not perfect but it works. Generally i would not recomend to solder anything on the esc except to unsolder the switch and bridge it with the tin solder I cutted the white cable to the motor as you dont need it for brushed motor. I was thinking to unsolder it but then i said its better to cut it
its definitely safer
If you are starting with this hobby be ready to spent nice budget not only for the main hardware but also for screws, spacers etc. You can buy a bag from here
http://store.rc4wd.com/Scaler-Crawler-Screws-Support-Bag-Black_p_2830.html to save the time with the build
If you need help first try google or
www.rccrawler.com and at last the forum for specific questions which works great. I did the build based on the pictures posted in this forum. I also used the rc4wd manual for bully 2 rig. you can download it from here
http://www.rc4wd.co.uk/product/NEW-MOA-30.pdf
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