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Camo hooptee

Brake Weight

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
3,444
Location
Deep South
This is my first attempt at a lexan body and my first RC since probably the early '90s.

RTR Honcho
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Redid some of the links with Traxxas end links and some threaded rod. I don't have any metal tubing laying around, but I do have some 1/4" polyflow from a water/meth install on my car. I've got a couple of carbon fiber arrows I'll cut to see if they will be a decent ID for the rod to go through. Ditched the reciever box for an Easter egg. It all fits well inside and a quick wrap of 3m will seal it up just fine.
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Ordered a couple of Trail Stomper bodies, a roof rack, 2.2 Mudslingers, 2.2 Axial wheels, a bearing kit, camo decals, Wraith coilovers, 1.43 in/# and 1.04 in/# springs, as well as a fist full of LEDs.

Bodies, roof rack, decals, coilovers, and LEDs arrived so I got cracking. This is my first paint job so I didn't expect a masterpiece. I just hope it'll stay on. I couldn't find the colors I wanted at my LHS, so I outsourced. WallyMart had several shades of camo rattle cans that said they can be used on plastic. I trimmed the wheel wells where it was intended to be, put the body on the chassis, and using the online measurements of the Mudslingers I trimmed some more off. I put the heavier springs up front and the lighter ones out back. They work very well, actually surprised me. There is some intended slight droop that takes away the initial lift on the stiff 2.07 in/# springs that were on them. But I do need to change the valving or run a lighter oil to get a quicker response from them.

So here it is:
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I have some headlights ordered and they'll be going on as well. I live in Mississippi and since this is a Bubba Stylz truck, and we're the only state to retain the Confederate Battle Flag in our state flag, I'll be putting one across the roof of the cab under the rack. The rack lights will be powered by 2 AAs that'll be stuck to the bottom of the bed.

I'm reading up in the brazing thread and I'll be trying my hand at that soon. Hoping for bumpers, sliders, and a soft topper for the bed.
 
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It looks that way, don't it. It's as low as it'll go in the back without have a shorter shock hoop. I'm hoping the 2.2s will fill that gap...a lot. But as it, it can come within a 1/4" of rubbing under extreme flex.

It's my guinea pig.
 
them are some huge wheel well openings...
prolly useful if running tires that look to tall. Lol

curious...
thought that body was designed to utilize an 11.4" wheel base ?
But the Honcho is 12.3"
So the wheel wells were enlarged instead of shortening the wheel base ?

Yeah the arse looks to high...
fix that will ya !?

like the paint scheme tho' "thumbsup"
 
The body is designed for a shorter wheelbase. I intend to run 2.2s, so I centered up the body and trimmed the wheel wells according to accommodate the larger tire dimensions, some towards the front of the front wells-some towards the back of the rear wells. 109mm vs 124mm OD tires, so basically 7mm more sidewall.

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The weekend and holiday has put a damper on getting the rest of the parts list. Hopefully mid week I'll have it all together. I have noticed that with this body on I can pop wheelies if I reverse into forward. This wasn't possible with the Honcho body. So I'm adding some wheel spacers and tire weights to the list now.
 
I swapped the two hole valves in the shocks to the three holes and the suspension softened up slightly. But in the process I ended up spilling the oil out of one. So I replaced them all with DOT4 and it's real smooth now. I can toss it from the hip and it lands without any bounce. I've got a small pile of busted up concrete sacks I play on and today I could take lines that it's tipped over on before. Nice improvement over the old valves/oil.
 
Project Camo Hooptee is finally moving forward some.

Got a set of wide RPM Revolvers mounted in some Geolanders. Wheels don't have breather holes and the tires are a lot firmer compound than the Ripsaws. Foams may come out altogether or get extremely trimmed down. Overall tire size is about 5mm shorter and 10mm wider.
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These guys fill those massive wheel wells better. But looks like I had trimmed too much and should've waited on the tires.
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I've also got some different LEDs to try out when I get a chance.
 
Looking good.If that's a lexan body I'm worried the paint you chose will flake off after some tumbles.
 
Camo paint is beginning to flake. I expected it to, just not so soon.

Got a set of HR links for a Wraith and put them on. I had expected a slightly longer wheelbase but it didn't net what I had hoped for. I was wanting the front to push out a little farther.
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Hacked up the Geolander foams and drilled 2-1/16" holes opposite each other in every wheel. Tremendous improvement.
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Experimenting with a flatbed. I looked for a good material and I thought I had found something at Hobby Lobby like lexan, but it's thickness makes it brittle. Sprayed some rattle can bedliner on it.

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Wired up a couple of light buckets.
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Put some lights back up front using the old rear.
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I got a lexan flat deck too...this is what it looks like now..

Before

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Love the lexan..havent cracked it yet on any tumbles or crashes...

Sent from a whiskey downer beer pounder's shop
 
USPS brought me another set of wheels. So I trimmed the foams, and threw on the other set of tires I've got with a slim bead of glue.
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Got a set of AR60s installed last night then lined up things better this morning and put on some droop plates to bring the ride height back down. I did an outboard 4 link front and rear. It triangulates differently as the axle moves up/down and I'll need to tweak the link lengths better, but it runs good.

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Got my f-2fiddy body mounted after painting up yesterday. It came out OK. I need to level out that South Carolina rake some.
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