Beef_Supreme
Newbie
This is a 14 hour print. I am excited to see how everything works out.
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CC-01.1
- Thread starter Beef_Supreme
- Start date
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- Tags
- cc01
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
I found out one or two things...
+ Every hole in the chassis needs to be a through hole for easier threading
+ The backhalf of the chassis got messed up somehow
- look at the shock towers? Slicer Issue?
- I messed up the torque twist case
+ The front springs should be inboarded a little bit. It looks like a V right now.
- moved it inboard 3mm per side
I have a little dilemma with the wheel arch guys. It robs me roughly 15mm of uptravel. I can enlarge it but It takes away some of the scale characteristics? What do you think? And dont mind the wheels
It came with a toyota landcruiser chassis I bought for 3D scanning.
+ I am waiting for some components but I can even tell now that the the steering components do not have a lot of space to live
- the sliding bars of the steering do not colide in my drawing, the servo I bought seems to be a little higher!
- Is there a low profile Servo out there?
- On the other hand I can lower the Servo 2mm in my drawings, thats not a big of a deal.
You can see i am using a pretty used up skidplate/ lower a arm attachment and I have to cut it up even more. Also one of the two mounting holes towards the middle of the chassis doesn't line up. I am already thinking of designing a new one
But is it really necessary? I don't build a hardcore crawler chassis I guess? I don't know? What do you think or experience?
+ Every hole in the chassis needs to be a through hole for easier threading
+ The backhalf of the chassis got messed up somehow
- look at the shock towers? Slicer Issue?
- I messed up the torque twist case
+ The front springs should be inboarded a little bit. It looks like a V right now.
- moved it inboard 3mm per side
I have a little dilemma with the wheel arch guys. It robs me roughly 15mm of uptravel. I can enlarge it but It takes away some of the scale characteristics? What do you think? And dont mind the wheels
It came with a toyota landcruiser chassis I bought for 3D scanning.
+ I am waiting for some components but I can even tell now that the the steering components do not have a lot of space to live
- the sliding bars of the steering do not colide in my drawing, the servo I bought seems to be a little higher!
- Is there a low profile Servo out there?
- On the other hand I can lower the Servo 2mm in my drawings, thats not a big of a deal.
You can see i am using a pretty used up skidplate/ lower a arm attachment and I have to cut it up even more. Also one of the two mounting holes towards the middle of the chassis doesn't line up. I am already thinking of designing a new one
But is it really necessary? I don't build a hardcore crawler chassis I guess? I don't know? What do you think or experience?
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Beef_Supreme
Newbie
The to-do list from above unfortunately got longer:
+ Inboard the front shocks to a total of 5mm
+ Inboard the rear shocks also 3-5mm
+ the links are to long, so the shock points the opposite direction yo want it to.
+ some printed plates and bars for help when glueing the halfs together
+ I will make the front wheel arch larger
+ full rear axle truss with upper links in the middle
+ the rear axle seems really stiff at the moment, guess it needs some weight back there
+ lower Links rub the chassis
+ drop the servo position 2-5mm
+ Design a skidplate
+ "steering arm/levers" design
+ I like the general idea of the two sliding bars but there is a space problem.
Maybe i Will go a different round with one hexagonal bar instead of two round bars
If I do this I am going to design axial joints out off traxxas mini slash pivot balls
Last weekend I thought I am going to be done far enough by this weekend... Next weeekend it is
Can you guys see the different wheelbases we get by adding extensions to the glue seam?
I can't wait what scale builds you are coming up with
But nonetheless,
Ladys and mostly Gentleman,
here I present to you the first ever "3D printed Tamiya CC01 like" Chassis THE CC-01.1 standing on its own feet:
+ Inboard the front shocks to a total of 5mm
+ Inboard the rear shocks also 3-5mm
+ the links are to long, so the shock points the opposite direction yo want it to.
+ some printed plates and bars for help when glueing the halfs together
+ I will make the front wheel arch larger
+ full rear axle truss with upper links in the middle
+ the rear axle seems really stiff at the moment, guess it needs some weight back there
+ lower Links rub the chassis
+ drop the servo position 2-5mm
+ Design a skidplate
+ "steering arm/levers" design
+ I like the general idea of the two sliding bars but there is a space problem.
Maybe i Will go a different round with one hexagonal bar instead of two round bars
If I do this I am going to design axial joints out off traxxas mini slash pivot balls
Last weekend I thought I am going to be done far enough by this weekend... Next weeekend it is
Can you guys see the different wheelbases we get by adding extensions to the glue seam?
I can't wait what scale builds you are coming up with
But nonetheless,
Ladys and mostly Gentleman,
here I present to you the first ever "3D printed Tamiya CC01 like" Chassis THE CC-01.1 standing on its own feet:
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Beef_Supreme
Newbie
one millisecond some days ago. But no serious thoughts.
But thank you for this spring steel reminder, I almost forgot to design a rear sway bar!
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
I think I a m through all the mentioned issues and things that needed a change. The Steering rods/bars had to much play for my liking so I changed them: I enlarged the holes to insert 7x1mm brass tubes. Like you would a threaded heat insert. With a 5.1mm reamer i can clear the tube for the 5mm rods.
Thats the theory. I am drying the filament right now and tomorrow I will do a new test print of the complete chassis.
I also put some holes in the back and front of the chassis for later Attachements like bumpers, snowplow, tow hitch...
Thats the theory. I am drying the filament right now and tomorrow I will do a new test print of the complete chassis.
I also put some holes in the back and front of the chassis for later Attachements like bumpers, snowplow, tow hitch...
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
The brass tube Shows up tomorrow. I didn't tell you but I was confident in my steering and rear axle shock mount so I go them printed in aluminum. Those parts will show up in one or two weeks.
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
Some new issues to think about...
+ The prints don't like to be threaded, the Maschine screws rip out to out to easy. I think I will have to switch to M3 heat inserts.
Or a hexagonal cut/outtake to work with nuts?
+ Inserting the brass tubes hot with a soldering iron partially destroyed the front diff case. The brass carrys so much heat energy it makes it difficult to chill them when inserted. I might better glue them into the plastic and think of a tool to keep them straight during hardening.
But on the other hand, the a arms fit really nice, the inboarded springs look way better and the tires don't rub the spring anymore, the bigger wheel arch helps a lot so stock tires barely touch the wheel arch and the servo/servo arm has enough clearance.
I have to wait for my aluminum printed parts. This gives me time to change the mentioned things.
I'll keep you updated
+ The prints don't like to be threaded, the Maschine screws rip out to out to easy. I think I will have to switch to M3 heat inserts.
Or a hexagonal cut/outtake to work with nuts?
+ Inserting the brass tubes hot with a soldering iron partially destroyed the front diff case. The brass carrys so much heat energy it makes it difficult to chill them when inserted. I might better glue them into the plastic and think of a tool to keep them straight during hardening.
But on the other hand, the a arms fit really nice, the inboarded springs look way better and the tires don't rub the spring anymore, the bigger wheel arch helps a lot so stock tires barely touch the wheel arch and the servo/servo arm has enough clearance.
I have to wait for my aluminum printed parts. This gives me time to change the mentioned things.
I'll keep you updated
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
I have pla, abs, ASA, petg, paht... And also the CF versions of them and so on. Also the ppa-cf.
For prototyping I only use pla because it's cheap, easy and pretty fast.
In the long term run i will print the chassis in ASA or ASA-CF.
The correct hole size for M3 would be 2.5mm. I'm kinda rough with the things I build and work with and the threads strip to easy for my liking so I will go the mentioned route.
For everyone later on who is going to print his own Cc01.1 it shouldn't be to much of an hassle to insert a few Heat inserts I guess.
At the moment I am still waiting for the aluminum parts. I updated my printers AMS with a heated lid and I still have to make the design changes on the Chassis.
I'll keep you updated.
OSRC
I wanna be Dave
I've stripped out a ton of screws in Tamiya's soft ABS too. A toothpick with a little CA on it (coat the inside of the hole as bast you can and let it dry) has saved many, many chassis.
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
The Chassis is 99% redesigned waiting to be printed.
With the Aluminium Prints I had some design errors which I had to change. Thin walls was the Problem.
With the Aluminium Prints I had some design errors which I had to change. Thin walls was the Problem.
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
On Thursday my steering components will arrive.
It looks really big and bulky in comparison?!
there are still some areas that need some fine tune.
+ On the shock towers the wall thickness was to small where I made the hex nut inserts, so now there are small holes visible
+ Everywhere I put heat inserts into I should try to increase the thickness of the surrounding areas
I am really excited to get my parts delivered and "glue in" the steering. I hope this works out the way I imagined
But otherwise pretty OK
It looks really big and bulky in comparison?!
there are still some areas that need some fine tune.
+ On the shock towers the wall thickness was to small where I made the hex nut inserts, so now there are small holes visible
+ Everywhere I put heat inserts into I should try to increase the thickness of the surrounding areas
I am really excited to get my parts delivered and "glue in" the steering. I hope this works out the way I imagined
But otherwise pretty OK
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
I am also impressed every time I see the support trees. Its like black magic
How would you build the most universal body mounts?
Should I draw some kind of mounting provisions into the corners or something to glue magnets in?
Or a hinge and magnets?
Or copy the tamiya mounting system?
Please give me some Ideas
I like no body posts/mounts showing. However, Tamiya don't always give you that option on every body as some are pre-drilled/slotted.......
Make both ends hinged. Rear as the pivot, but the front only to help with any angled hoods (make sense)
Make both ends hinged. Rear as the pivot, but the front only to help with any angled hoods (make sense)
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
Everything went smoothly so far, some minor design flaws which complicate assembly but nothing major.
It sucks that I got the wrong reamer delivered.
5.2mm instead of 5.1mm gives a little to much play in the brass bushings. Or in other words I know it could be less but my cheap ass keeps me from buying the correct one now
At the moment I am waiting for the glue to dry.
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OSRC
I wanna be Dave
Very cool, can't wait to see it all come together.
mrwonderful
Rock Crawler
Definitely one of the coolest and most extensive CC01 builds I’ve ever seen!
Beef_Supreme
Newbie
Good evening Guys,
Lets begin with the small issues:
I missed one of the gearbox holes by 0,5-1mm and now this shows with the heat inserts (looks a little crooked also...). (BTW the inserts are really awesome!)
Not a real error or issue because I knew when I was designing it: Small of the gearbox Cover "lip" needs to be cut away cause otherwise there wouldnt be enough material around the servo for the printer.
Before I explain my problems Ill show you some photos:
All issues are related to the front end:
+ I have bumpsteer
+ the steering knuckle hits the screw of the spring in the a-arm and doesn't allow for full steering angle
(this one is solved easy...)
+ the tie rods are pretty short and on a stupid angle so they don't have enough "throw" and limit the uptravel.
- Somewhere between those pics I changed one tie rod end from a cranked tie rod to an angled one and it gives me more travel.
- Would smaller hardware solve my issues? M2 tie rods? Is there such a thing?
At this point I would hook up the RC and would run it till I find the next problems but I don't even have batteries or a charger and I am not sure if all my old stuff like the radio or the esc works...
Guess I have to go shopping.
but lets stay positiv:
+ it looks awesome and maybe the problems I mentioned are not really noticeable
+The most play of this steering system is in the old Tamiya parts and not my design
Lets begin with the small issues:
I missed one of the gearbox holes by 0,5-1mm and now this shows with the heat inserts (looks a little crooked also...). (BTW the inserts are really awesome!)
Not a real error or issue because I knew when I was designing it: Small of the gearbox Cover "lip" needs to be cut away cause otherwise there wouldnt be enough material around the servo for the printer.
Before I explain my problems Ill show you some photos:
All issues are related to the front end:
+ I have bumpsteer
+ the steering knuckle hits the screw of the spring in the a-arm and doesn't allow for full steering angle
(this one is solved easy...)+ the tie rods are pretty short and on a stupid angle so they don't have enough "throw" and limit the uptravel.
- Somewhere between those pics I changed one tie rod end from a cranked tie rod to an angled one and it gives me more travel.
- Would smaller hardware solve my issues? M2 tie rods? Is there such a thing?
At this point I would hook up the RC and would run it till I find the next problems but I don't even have batteries or a charger and I am not sure if all my old stuff like the radio or the esc works...
Guess I have to go shopping.
but lets stay positiv:
+ it looks awesome and maybe the problems I mentioned are not really noticeable
+The most play of this steering system is in the old Tamiya parts and not my design
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