andymac0035
Pebble Pounder
I waited for this one quite a while as it got caught up in customs. I had already bought all my hop-up stuff and been impatiently waiting to get going on this, and now I'm finally there.
The build started the usual way, although I cheated and just bought an extra locker set for the front diff. On the rear diff I used the included locker and I think tamiya changed something because there was not much play in the rear diff when I put it all together. There were 2 plastic shims used near the outer bearings, which I swapped for some 5x8 bushings (since I put all bearings in the kit) and with a shim/washer added to those, it was all pretty tight. I remember doing the bushing/shim mod (the one just to one side of the diff) last build like shown on the youtube vid from the "LED wheel-guy, but it wasn't needed this time.
The 1st brick-mod I ever did I got lucky (free-hand) (with a back saw) but this one wasn't going straight so I had to get a heavy file out and shaped it the hard way. Then I cut, bent, and shaped this team durango skid to fit. That part came out better this go around I think.
Then in went the hot racing steering kit. I made sure I thread-locked the screws even using thread locker in the boss areas for the upper/lower pieces as that worked for me last time around to get rid of all the play in that spot. I did use the stock tamiya connectors, but I'm sure I'll change those out eventually. I trimmed the inside of the tray/skid to clear things as the linkage was hitting.
Steering stops ground down and tamiya CVD's. Also used those flat-topped king pin screws as I planned on using axial bead locks on this.
Added some reinforcement for the body with hard foam, as I'm sure it will take some hits.
Then came the part I struggled with to figure out. I planned on using 3S shorty soft case lipo's and they were a little tight in the stock tray because of their wires coming out the corner. I ended up going for the front location and made this tray out of an axial wraith battery tray. I shaved everything off the sides and cut it a little more than in half. I made some stand-offs for mounting it up front using the stock countersunk holes in the tray. That rested pretty good between the wheel wells. Then I drilled in from the side and into the sides of the tray and used some long grub screws to secure the other end of the tray. These were just right to thread through the plastic of the chassis and the tray but not poke through. Then a long strap goes under and around length ways and holds the battery to it. There is a piece of foam in the tray to make sure the front screw heads that stick up a hair don't wear into the battery.
And here it is all laid out. ESC is from my CMX Bronco, servo is a stock SCX10 tactic, motor is an "old-I-don't-how many-turns-but-it's-slow" motor I had handy. :lmao:
I may just take the electronics plate out of there and mount stuff in the stock battery tray, but I was using the stock antenna mount and didn't want to change it....... :roll:
The build started the usual way, although I cheated and just bought an extra locker set for the front diff. On the rear diff I used the included locker and I think tamiya changed something because there was not much play in the rear diff when I put it all together. There were 2 plastic shims used near the outer bearings, which I swapped for some 5x8 bushings (since I put all bearings in the kit) and with a shim/washer added to those, it was all pretty tight. I remember doing the bushing/shim mod (the one just to one side of the diff) last build like shown on the youtube vid from the "LED wheel-guy, but it wasn't needed this time.
The 1st brick-mod I ever did I got lucky (free-hand) (with a back saw) but this one wasn't going straight so I had to get a heavy file out and shaped it the hard way. Then I cut, bent, and shaped this team durango skid to fit. That part came out better this go around I think.
Then in went the hot racing steering kit. I made sure I thread-locked the screws even using thread locker in the boss areas for the upper/lower pieces as that worked for me last time around to get rid of all the play in that spot. I did use the stock tamiya connectors, but I'm sure I'll change those out eventually. I trimmed the inside of the tray/skid to clear things as the linkage was hitting.
Steering stops ground down and tamiya CVD's. Also used those flat-topped king pin screws as I planned on using axial bead locks on this.
Added some reinforcement for the body with hard foam, as I'm sure it will take some hits.
Then came the part I struggled with to figure out. I planned on using 3S shorty soft case lipo's and they were a little tight in the stock tray because of their wires coming out the corner. I ended up going for the front location and made this tray out of an axial wraith battery tray. I shaved everything off the sides and cut it a little more than in half. I made some stand-offs for mounting it up front using the stock countersunk holes in the tray. That rested pretty good between the wheel wells. Then I drilled in from the side and into the sides of the tray and used some long grub screws to secure the other end of the tray. These were just right to thread through the plastic of the chassis and the tray but not poke through. Then a long strap goes under and around length ways and holds the battery to it. There is a piece of foam in the tray to make sure the front screw heads that stick up a hair don't wear into the battery.
And here it is all laid out. ESC is from my CMX Bronco, servo is a stock SCX10 tactic, motor is an "old-I-don't-how many-turns-but-it's-slow" motor I had handy. :lmao:
I may just take the electronics plate out of there and mount stuff in the stock battery tray, but I was using the stock antenna mount and didn't want to change it....... :roll:
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