Back with my second post- another cheap DIY homemade accessory! I've always liked the cool look/functionality of a snorkel and I love crawling through water so I decided it is a must have on my Jeep! Typically, scale snorkels run $10-$20 and you would need to get the particular one for your body. I decided to make one on my on! Keep in mind I aim to get the most scale look/function for the least amount of spare change possible.
Human ingenuity strikes again! ;-)
Materials used:
-Foam
-Pen Body(s)
-Wire Mesh
-Tiny Screws
-Paint
Tools used:
-Electric Dremel
-X-acto Knife
-Hot Glue Gun
1.
I crafted the snorkel tip first, out of foam. I cut foam from a Traxxas parts pack that I kept around, knowing I would have use for the material later. I cut it with a x-acto/hobby knife. Be aware you need to saw-cut the foam to make a straight cut as foam bends under pressure and your cut line will distort if you were to slice-cut it. After cutting out the shape I wanted, I dremeled a hole where appropriate for the snorkel tube to join the tip. In the front where the opening should be, I dremeled a hole and cut slits at the top above the opening. The wire mesh was fixed over the opening with a thin layer of hot glue and small thumb screws at the top which screwed into the slits made earlier. I also shaved the side of the tip that will be against the body for better fitment.
Snorkel tip done!
2.
The snorkel body tube can be made from a pen body or other tubing. In this particular case, I used a mechanical pencil body which was very brittle to cut but still sufficed. Measure to the appropriate length of your windshield line but leave half an inch or so to make an angle cut later in step 4.
Snorkel body almost done!
3.
The inlet through the body panel into the engine bay was made from a slightly larger diameter pen body than the mechanical pencil body I used. You can also use pen tips here. Cut to the appropriate length, while making sure you have enough depth for the snorkel body to attach. Then dremel it to the appropriate angle slant into the body.
Inlet done!
4.
Now you can go back to your snorkel body and mock it up with the inlet on the body you're using to decide what angle you need to cut the snorkel body tip to attach to the inlet. Make the appropriate cut.
Snorkel Body done!
5.
Now you have all your finished pieces, just put them together! I used hot glue because I could glue and adjust to the window lines and body angles while the glue cooled so the snorkel would sit as flush as possible. Very pleased with the hot glue joints and welds, holds very sturdy.
Snorkel assembled!
6.
Paint it! I used black Rust-oleum Truck Bed Coating to give the snorkel a bit of texture.
Snorkel painted!
7.
To mount the snorkel, I had already eye-balled the position in the beginning but I could now move the snorkel forward or backward and adjust the mounting position. Mounted it by drilling a hole through the front of the inlet and through the body and secured it with a screw and nut. Mounted firm!
Snorkel mounted!
Finished!
Might not be as scale as yall would like but its good enough for me!
Took little more than an hour to craft and fit and total expense was $0.00!
Did not even have to open my wallet! "thumbsup"
I hope yall have enjoyed this little tip, comments and criticism welcome!
Sorry for the quality of the pictures
The foam used from a Traxxas Aluminum Hub Carrier Pack (#3652A)
Human ingenuity strikes again! ;-)
Materials used:
-Foam
-Pen Body(s)
-Wire Mesh
-Tiny Screws
-Paint
Tools used:
-Electric Dremel
-X-acto Knife
-Hot Glue Gun
1.
I crafted the snorkel tip first, out of foam. I cut foam from a Traxxas parts pack that I kept around, knowing I would have use for the material later. I cut it with a x-acto/hobby knife. Be aware you need to saw-cut the foam to make a straight cut as foam bends under pressure and your cut line will distort if you were to slice-cut it. After cutting out the shape I wanted, I dremeled a hole where appropriate for the snorkel tube to join the tip. In the front where the opening should be, I dremeled a hole and cut slits at the top above the opening. The wire mesh was fixed over the opening with a thin layer of hot glue and small thumb screws at the top which screwed into the slits made earlier. I also shaved the side of the tip that will be against the body for better fitment.
Snorkel tip done!
2.
The snorkel body tube can be made from a pen body or other tubing. In this particular case, I used a mechanical pencil body which was very brittle to cut but still sufficed. Measure to the appropriate length of your windshield line but leave half an inch or so to make an angle cut later in step 4.
Snorkel body almost done!
3.
The inlet through the body panel into the engine bay was made from a slightly larger diameter pen body than the mechanical pencil body I used. You can also use pen tips here. Cut to the appropriate length, while making sure you have enough depth for the snorkel body to attach. Then dremel it to the appropriate angle slant into the body.
Inlet done!
4.
Now you can go back to your snorkel body and mock it up with the inlet on the body you're using to decide what angle you need to cut the snorkel body tip to attach to the inlet. Make the appropriate cut.
Snorkel Body done!
5.
Now you have all your finished pieces, just put them together! I used hot glue because I could glue and adjust to the window lines and body angles while the glue cooled so the snorkel would sit as flush as possible. Very pleased with the hot glue joints and welds, holds very sturdy.
Snorkel assembled!
6.
Paint it! I used black Rust-oleum Truck Bed Coating to give the snorkel a bit of texture.
Snorkel painted!
7.
To mount the snorkel, I had already eye-balled the position in the beginning but I could now move the snorkel forward or backward and adjust the mounting position. Mounted it by drilling a hole through the front of the inlet and through the body and secured it with a screw and nut. Mounted firm!
Snorkel mounted!
Finished!
Might not be as scale as yall would like but its good enough for me!
Took little more than an hour to craft and fit and total expense was $0.00!
Did not even have to open my wallet! "thumbsup"
I hope yall have enjoyed this little tip, comments and criticism welcome!
Sorry for the quality of the pictures
The foam used from a Traxxas Aluminum Hub Carrier Pack (#3652A)
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