Crazykev's mega basher Yeti

[Crazykev]

Did a bunch more to the truck.

Made a front tower to rear tower/strut brace






Soldered new wires to the MMP. 10g input leads and 12g motor leads along with CC polarized connectors. I was really heating up the 13g wires. With the new wires and that kick ass fan, I am willing to bet I increased the constant amp rating for the MMP from 80 to at least 100amps. I am getting the 10g wires hotter than the ESC! The factory fan on the MMP is a joke! If your wondering about how I am pulling so many amps, it's because I'm running a 22t pinion with a 56t Gen3 RR slipper spur. I haven't GPS'd the current setup, but it is at least doing 50mph now. The Pro4 HD would have already crapped out if it wasn't for the crazy fan and heatsink I have on it. It gets just slightly hot.




Installed Boca ABEC7 ceramic orange seal brushless bearings in the Pro4 HD




Cut the body a bit for the brace and better cooling.







Made my own CF rear shock mount plates

 

[Crazykev]

Also installed the new 92mm Axial front universal driveshafts.


You won't find a different part number. They are supplying 92mm axles in the 94mm part bags now. That's cool, because I've bent them before by slamming on the side of the front wheel during a crash. Should be a little tougher to do now.

 

[Crazykev]

My second SMC 7200 3S finally showed up too. This new pack seems to be a little stronger than the other pack I got from them. The first pack sat on their shelf for probably 4 months before I got it. It was built in Sept. and I got it in Jan. This new one was built the day they shipped it. Maybe that is why it performs a little better? Not sure? Still not what the Maxamps 6500 pack has, but closer.

 

[Crazykev]

The shock tower to shock tower chassis brace splintered yesterday. If the truck didn't need the brace, then I don't think it would have broke and I wouldn't have bent the transfer case to front diff driveshaft, so I beefed up my design a bit my adding two more points that the strut brace part in the rear.


The blasted old brace.




The new design that has two more tie in points by by gluing in 10mm long plastic rods into the rear body post holes that are not being used.





I used rod endlinks on the rear most points so that the brace is able to twist a bit torsionally otherwise I think it break because it's so super stiff.

 

[DenisLM]

The shock tower to shock tower chassis brace splintered yesterday. If the truck didn't need the brace, then I don't think it would have broke and I wouldn't have bent the transfer case to front diff driveshaft, so I beefed up my design a bit my adding two more points that the strut brace part in the rear.

The new design that has two more tie in points by by gluing in 10mm long plastic rods into the rear body post holes that are not being used.

I used rod endlinks on the rear most points so that the brace is able to twist a bit torsionally otherwise I think it break because it's so super stiff.

By my understanding some flex in the body is always desirable and even the stock central dogbone/cvd have room to flex there.
In theory you are only increasing the tension in the chassis and changing the break point. Stiffen one side to break/bend another.

 

[Crazykev]

Maybe? But I haven't broke anything after the brace besides the brace. There is way more flex in the Yeti chassis compared to most of the decent trucks that I've had in the past. The chassis will take way more tension before it's going to break compared to being compressed. Constant flexing in pretty much every material I know of causes fatigue and eventual failure. Take this truck and stand it on end with 500# on it and compare it to hanging 500# off of it. You'll fold it way before you stretch it. Before the brace I could see where the motor has been making contact with the front output drive cup on the transfer case and now it doesn't. Chassis flex is beneficial to handling in torsion, but that brace I made doesn't change that much at all being that it's long CF rod that twist. Before the brace, the servo pulls and pushes to move the shock tower all over the place. The yeti is a heavy ass truck to have a plastic tub chassis IMO. I really want to design a double deck CF chassis similar to what my Losi LST2 had. That truck was a freakin beast of an RC truck and almost never broke anything beating on it many times harder than my Yeti. I jumped that truck all day long on motocross tracks and not break a thing. If they would update the look of the LST2 or came out with a LST3, I would buy one in a heartbeat.

I'm starting to just accept that the Yeti will never be a bashable truck and am trying to decide on what I'm going to buy to have a blast with. I can't get too nutty with the Yeti without breaking something. I really wish I could make it work as a true basher because I love the look, but know now that it will never be as fun as many of my past vehicles and that's a bummer!

This is most likely what my next truck will be. I have wanted to get a gasser for a long time, but the SCT and Buggy versions can't be jumped even half as high as the Vekta.5. Check out the youtube videos on this truck and watch the jumps they are pulling off with this tank of a gasser.

 

[Iwouldntknow]

I know what you mean. I've had mine out a few times, and it's never as satisfying as I hoped it would be. Not great at crawling and not great at "hold my beer and watch this" bashing. I'll probably hand it off to my youngest and start with something else.