Custom Links?

[Deerhurst]

What do y'all do for custom SCX24 links? I see lot sof places where I can buy links for specific wheebases. I'm printing a body id like to try running and the wheelbase is a little off from the Power Wagon.

For the 1/10 I used revo rod ends and turned my own links. What do y'all do for the little 1/24 when custom Links are needed?

 

[Speedy-Triple]

why not 3d print your own? unless you want metal-stainless/steel ... I got some injora rod ends and plan on making some all thread and stainless sleeves but I have yet to get to do them. My research showed 2 mm rod to be used over 1.5mm all thread should work for the injora rod ends.

 

[ferp420]

i use 3m all thread sleeved with this brass rod 3mm id 3.5mm od or maybe 4mm of cant remeber

 

[Deerhurst]

why not 3d print your own? unless you want metal-stainless/steel ... I got some injora rod ends and plan on making some all thread and stainless sleeves but I have yet to get to do them. My research showed 2 mm rod to be used over 1.5mm all thread should work for the injora rod ends.

Why print and have something no better than the OEM plastic junk? Resin printed will be more rigid but way more brittle.

 

[Deerhurst]

i use 3m all thread sleeved with this brass rod 3mm id 3.5mm od or maybe 4mm of cant remeber

Good info! 3.5-4mm OD!

I'll have to get some brass rod of around that diameter and thread it for ends once I get the wheelbase figured out.

Is it worth doing the high clearance bend?

 

[Speedy-Triple]

Why print and have something no better than the OEM plastic junk? Resin printed will be more rigid but way more brittle.

prints are fine for 24th scale builds ... not a whole lot of torque in comparison to 1/10th perhaps why you think they would not work. Also structural strength can be achieved by design and your print settings.

 

[Saltrock]

Why print and have something no better than the OEM plastic junk?

The oem Scx links aren’t junk. You can make them high clearance double bent with some heat if you want.

 

[Deerhurst]

The oem Scx links aren’t junk. You can make them high clearance double bent with some heat if you want.

They are noodles and have lots of play. So much play my SCX24 could wiggle its butt with the steering servo right out of the box Junk.

 

[Deerhurst]

prints are fine for 24th scale builds ... not a whole lot of torque in comparison to 1/10th perhaps why you think they would not work. Also structural strength can be achieved by design and your print settings.

Wish that were true with most filaments. Due to size there is little that I see that can be done to enhance rigidity for FDM. Nylon is soft, PLA is probably as rigid as itll get. Even the Carbon Nylon I work with is pretty flexy in many designs that are quite rigid in PLA+. A 4mm tube will always be flexy no matter what. Ive worked with some impressive resins though I dont know of any Id trust that small due to being brittle at that thickness. I can try some just to say I did but itll probably be easier and faster for me to just fire up the lathe and turn some threaded brass links. Brass will also get me more low end weight.

Do you have a design that is rigid and fits tightly with the rod end balls?

I think all I need is about 0.25" of added wheelbase. Maybe a hair more.


The stock motor its pretty pathetic. I am also used to a Torquemaster with a BRXL on 3s.

 

[Speedy-Triple]

I mostly work with PLA and PETG ... I design all my parts ... mostly custom stuff for my own and I have no experience with resin printing (I stay away from the extra steps and chemicals it needs) I like the cost and simplicity of PLA and PETG and I prototype a lot of things so its convenient for my purposes. I agree with you on the brass and metals they do look better but for me it would be a matter of printing the correct size make sure it fits and works then I would use the exact measurements to cut the metals. Plus most of my prints are for function and get abused and easily reprinted ... My understanding is that resin printing is more inclined for better finish and aesthetic appearance rather than strength.

I have used Injora rod end balls with the use of the O-rings to adjust the slop.

The stock scx24 motor is a joke. Nowadays I rather build it than buy another stock truck. All of the options I have tried have been far better than the 88t.. I been running .50 cans (Injora, barrage, etc) and many different brushless set ups mostly ran on 3s as well.

 

[Deerhurst]

I hate the stock ESC too. Eventually all that will go away. probably when I let the magic smoke out.


PETG is a neat material. Decently easy to work with but very durable. More flex than PLA.

Resin is neat. Price goes crazy fast for fancy resins. There are a few I would try for thicker parts with less impact even the really durable resins tend to have brittle failure and don't seem to like shock. I do resin and filament printing professionally though it's not a major part of my job. I have all sorts of things resin printed in industrial use from handles, spacers, fixtures to motor mounts. Same for filament printing.

The tolerances on a resin printer are often very good even my super cheap one at home is +/-0.002". Great for prototyping which I've done a lot to check fit, interferances, etc before machining the piece. Printers are fantastic tools.

The much smaller layer lines of resin printers make things smoother and much prettier. I've made optically clear parts with resin as well. Lately I've been making light diffusers with clear resin.


I'll probably just machine some. It'll be quicker than adjusting models to get the exact fit I want and the thread doesn't really matter so I can just pick one and run with it. I'll have to get some rod ends on hand and decide if I want to thread the links or tap the links and use set screws like Vaterra did. Plus more weight low which is good. This body will be/is heavy being printed. Unfortunately I couldn't resin print it, my tiny printer is too small.