So I spent most of yesterday building my Ascender. My first impressions are very, very good. The plastics are thick and of good quality. No parts trees in sight so no trimming of plastic bits which was nice. All the parts bags were labelled and everything was present and correct. Everything went together beautifully with great fitment. I believe these now come with Heavy Duty driveshafts and pinion gears which is nice.
Two parts of the manual are still incorrect. 4 Shims are included for the front and rear spool (ring gear) but the image shows two shims on the wrong side (teeth side) it should actually be one shim either side for the front and rear spools. The only other bit was at step F3 for the wheelbase 4 that single front upper link should be 61mm, not 66mm as shown in the manual.
The manual was very good, although some steps towards the end were a little tricky to see where everything went. Once you have done it once, its easy though.
All metal transmission gears. Also an option for two-speed using the Twin Hammers gearbox. Decided to go with a 35T motor as that is what the RTR version comes with so I think it will be a good ball park motor in terms of speed to run. RC4WD 35T.
Heavy Duty Gears
CVD's as standard
Front and Rear axles complete along with transmission
Very beefy chassis rails with for 4 wheel base adjustments (278mm, 290mm, 302mm and 314mm - spacers/links/threaded rod included to alter on the fly) The middle skid plate is very chunky too. Note the plastic size used for the front and rear shocks hoops, very sturdy. Also the cross brace has two purposes. To secure the shock towers and also a thread rod inside to securely mount the shocks too. Wheelbase pictures here to show how easy it is: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/512816-ascender-wheel-base-link-reference-guide.html
The skid plate has a nice method of attachment for the lower links. A slide pin is used and is held in place with a grub screw. Detail shots of the shock towers.
Decided to go with a PowerHD 20Kg Servo
Look good at the front now
Got my SSD D Hole Beadlocks
Next step is lowering the body...
Would anyone be able to tell how many holes showing in your front and rear body posts? This is for the people who have lowered it. The front looks OK but is just touching the front bumper legs. The rear is a little high though.
Two parts of the manual are still incorrect. 4 Shims are included for the front and rear spool (ring gear) but the image shows two shims on the wrong side (teeth side) it should actually be one shim either side for the front and rear spools. The only other bit was at step F3 for the wheelbase 4 that single front upper link should be 61mm, not 66mm as shown in the manual.
The manual was very good, although some steps towards the end were a little tricky to see where everything went. Once you have done it once, its easy though.
All metal transmission gears. Also an option for two-speed using the Twin Hammers gearbox. Decided to go with a 35T motor as that is what the RTR version comes with so I think it will be a good ball park motor in terms of speed to run. RC4WD 35T.
Heavy Duty Gears
CVD's as standard
Front and Rear axles complete along with transmission
Very beefy chassis rails with for 4 wheel base adjustments (278mm, 290mm, 302mm and 314mm - spacers/links/threaded rod included to alter on the fly) The middle skid plate is very chunky too. Note the plastic size used for the front and rear shocks hoops, very sturdy. Also the cross brace has two purposes. To secure the shock towers and also a thread rod inside to securely mount the shocks too. Wheelbase pictures here to show how easy it is: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/512816-ascender-wheel-base-link-reference-guide.html
The skid plate has a nice method of attachment for the lower links. A slide pin is used and is held in place with a grub screw. Detail shots of the shock towers.
Decided to go with a PowerHD 20Kg Servo
Look good at the front now
Got my SSD D Hole Beadlocks
Next step is lowering the body...
Would anyone be able to tell how many holes showing in your front and rear body posts? This is for the people who have lowered it. The front looks OK but is just touching the front bumper legs. The rear is a little high though.
